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Sensor broke in Cylinder Head. Remove Manifolds? or drill in place?

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Old 10-07-2012, 06:39 PM
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Sensor broke in Cylinder Head. Remove Manifolds? or drill in place?

Hi guys. I seem to have a problem. I have a 1999 Ford E150 4.2l. My clyinder head temp sensor was dangeling but still connected to the sensor... the connecter was loosed from the filiament but was still connected by esposed metal pins.

I figured I would replace it like i did to my ECT by the Water Pump. So I pulled the connector out and it started to leak...a little. and when I put the socket on it I instantly broke the sensor flush with the Cylinder Head.

I reseached on here and found many people believe the CHT gives info to the Dashboard Gauge and the ECT is used by the ECU. I thought that was correct because I had ECT readings from my scantool...and my Dash Gauge never worked. When I found the dangeling CHT I figured it was never working.

So I JB welded CHT hole. figuring i would fix it properly later. I replaced the ECT and expected everything to go back to normal.. No gauge reading on dash and a scan reading with no codes.

So I am confused.

I want to replace the CHT sensor properly.

Do I HAVE to remove the manifolds. Or do you think its safe to drain the coolant and drill it out. Its easy access. Im worried about all the tiny pieces getting into narrow passage ways.

I am almost 100% going to drill out. Manifold sounds like hell and its getting cold.

any tips. My mileage is killing me.

What sensor controls what?

Can I drill it out safely?
 
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:44 PM
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Personally, I would drill it out or maybe use a easy out. You can always vacuum out what little bit of shavings that get in there. I did something similar to that once,then used a shop vac with a small vacuum hose taped to the end of the vacuum nozzle.
 
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:54 AM
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that's clever. shop vac with a reduced size. Ill drain everything and the shop vac should suck up everything.

Still wondering what sensor controls what. I have a new ECT and a Broken CHT. I have no ECT signal on scan tool and its throwing a code.

The only thing im going by is the fact my Dash Gauge never worked..and the whole time i had a broken CHT half ripped out the sensor...so i figure it controls the thing that never worked... but since pulling it completely out AND also replacing the ECT ( i overheated and decided to replace it) I have no scantool reading and still no dash reading.

Anyway. Replacing the CHT should help. We'll see.

is there a resource for wiring diagrams? or anything related to the ECU and Sensors? thanks
 
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:02 PM
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Promising

OK.

It turns out that there are 3 other same sized holes pre-drilled into the CYLINDER HEAD . I'd like to think its specifically for the event of breaking this sensor. but i doubt it..lol.

Top and bottom outside corners of each CYLINDER HEAD - the broken one is located in the bottom passenger side.

Im going to the dealer and ask for an OEM part and ask any advice. If this works Ill post it for whoever might find this helpful.
 
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:23 PM
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You might also ask for a copy of the wiring diagram. I asked our local dealer for one and they were more than happy to make me a copy.
 
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Old 04-19-2024, 05:44 PM
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Curious to see if I can revive this thread. Very similiar issue for me.

2017 Ford F150 XLT 2.7 Ecoboost -

I forget the PCode itself but it was pointing to the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. The truck gauges were lighting up as if it were overheating and it was stuck in limp mode.

We went to replace the sensor and broke the head off into the block. I guess we used too big of a drill bit while trying EasyOut and other options. It eventually was shredding the sensor so we just drilled through it. We tried our best to blow out all of the shavings. We then used a Heli Coil, threaded the block for the heli coil and threaded the heli coil in. Followed this by threading in the new sensor.

Now, the gauges are no longer showing the truck is over heating and it is driveable. However, it is still throwing the P Code causing me not to be able to get it inspected. Also, if i try to go 0-60MPH in 3 seconds, it will go back in limp mode and the gauges light back up. This only happens when I dog it. I have been driving it this was like a grandpaw for 2 years now with no issues really at all other not being able to pass inspection and cannot dog it.

I am back on this project now because I really need to be able to ensure I can haul heavy loads and pass inspection.

I have no idea what is in the engine block, what the sensor should be touching on the other side. I will note, the sensor has a very very very tiny bit of space where the sensor didnt go flush into the block. Is there perhaps air getting in there when I dog it?

 
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