1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks
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Back when I was rebuilding the chassis and the cab was off I replaced the master cylinder with a dual reservoir, power unit from CPP. I had also bought (but not yet installed) the remote fill kit after reading on FTE how access is difficult. I left the rebuilt brake system dry while my build slowly moved ahead. I'm at the point where the truck can move under it's own power while I'm behind the wheel sitting on a milk crate but I'll need brakes!
Yesterday I went to install the remote fill kit so I could put fluid in the system for the first time. I'm having second thoughts. The plastic reservoir and rather large clear tubing will look kind of out of place on the firewall. I'm thinking maybe I should just live with the pain in the a** fill from underneath.
ANYWAY, my question is, how do I bench bleed the master cylinder if I go with the remote setup? I have the bleeder kit. I will:
1. Take the brake lines off the master cylinder and install the temp plastic fittings and tubing. Direct the plastic tubing back to the MC fill.
2. Add fluid to the MC.
3. Slowly pump the pedal to recirculate it through the MC until there are no air bubbles.
4. Reinstall the permanent brake lines and bleed the wheel cylinders.
Do I go through this process on the bare MC or should the remote fill/reservoir be in place during the process?
i have no direct experience with this kit--but--it seems to me that you would go through the same process with master, then add on the remote set-up. i would think that, once the master is bled and full, that all you should need to do is install and gravity bleed remote system.
42 1.5 ton marmon herrington all wheel drive
I'm working on a '37 Buick and replaced the single reservoir MC with a dual reservoir MC. In order to do this I had to move the MC to the other side of the X crossmember which made the MC difficult to get to. I checked out remote reservoirs, and like you thought the plastic ones offered didn't fit the look of the car. I searched the net and found a site for race cars that had a post about remote reservoirs.
You can fine these on eBay if you search for "metal bottle"
You would need to drill a vent hole in the top and install a diaphragm gasket under the cap to allow for level changes in the can. You can find the gasket at any auto parts store.
According to the site where I found the first image, there is some European vintage car that uses this set up and charges a small fortune for a reproduction kit that uses the same cans. I have the cans but haven't installed them yet. I still need to figure out how the tap into the bottom and seal them but that can't be too much of a problem once I get to it.
__________________ Old trucks, it's a sickness-one I hope they never find a cure for! Bob Jones--Fat Fender Aficionado--FTE member since '96
49 F-2 pickup/48 F-1 panel truck
48/51 F-4 flatbed (2 in 1)/49 8N tractor www.fatfenderedtrucks.com
If you replaced/rebuilt all your brake components (so all of the system is dry) you don't need to bench bleed the master. I replaced everything in my system and bled the whole system on the frame. Bench bleeding helps keep from inducing air into the existing system when replacing the M/C.
If you want to bench bleed it I would do it without the remote fill attached. It will make things easier.
2002 F-250 XLT 4x4 7.3 Auto CC LB
1955 F-100 302 T-5 9"
Thank you for the ideas guys. I will bench bleed it without the remote. That will also allow me to ponder the remote installation. (and drive it for the first time!!) Bobby, all due respect, the cans don't do it for me either. Maybe this is a good time to invest in a spool gun for my MIG and build one from aluminum?
Mid-Fifties offers a billet reservoir for their CPP kits. I'd imagine CPP also offers it. I'm considering putting the reservoir behind the seat where it doesn't show but can be accessed. Whatever you decide to do, show us some pictures.
Nice installation on an acquaintances' Dodge Power Wagon shown off this weekend. It was crafted from a one-lung engine oiler. Looks period correct on his firewall. A few tweaks were involved but it looks great.
I like the behind the seat idea, too. Serves two functions; ease of accessability and hides a non-stock-looking unit. The aluminum reservoir can be painted black so it blends in nicely but it is a bit more money.
Been scouring the web for options. Ebay offers the most varied selection of OEM used reservoirs with photos. I'm thinking about making a small access cut with cover on the floor behind the seat. Mount one as high as possible to the underside of the floor. Not sure if it can be mounted high enough to gravity flow into the MC. More research to do.
1955 5.0 F100 (Build in progress)
2004 Black coupe SVT Cobra (#198)
White 6.7 Scorpion F250 PSD
1995 Camry (R rear window motor broke, only starts with AC on, have to shake gear shift to start, makes noise when I turn right, and have to manual turn on fan with AC to prevent over heating, but keeps on rocking)
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