Im looking at a 2001 f250 triton v10 with 200000 miles it is advertised for 8900 what can i expect from the truck and is a gasser worth that price with that many miles

 

I have one, they run great. As far as the pricing, that is a lot of miles, it would help to know what trim level, cab style, and 4x4 or 2wd.....................

 

200,000 is a lot of mines. Get a history on the truck and run it. Does it burn oil? Any CEL? The V10 is good but I dont know of a ton that last a super long time.

 

They are asking too much! I see you're from up north, would you be travelling south to get a rust-free truck by chance?

I did, and I was able to pick up my '00 Excursion Limited V10 with 111,800 miles for $6,900. We need more details to help you with a good price, but there's no way it'd be worth that much in most cases.

 

The truck is a 4x4 extended cab long bed truck it has been an Indiana truck its whole life and still shows no sign of rust I haven't pulled the history of the truck yet as soon as I do I will get u more info

 

If it's been in Indiana its whole life there is likely plenty of rust to be found. It would have to be pretty far gone to be showing any signs of exterior rust, so unless it's been examined from underneath don't trust pics of a clean body.

One member in NJ was dismayed to find his bed supports were rusted off of his 2004 truck even though he was meticulous about washing it. The body looked flawless but it needed work. Not trying to scare you off, but that's even more reason to not overpay.

Kelly Blue Book shows a value of only $7,100 if it was a Lariat in excellent condition. If it is a Lariat and appears to be in good shape I would offer $6,500. If it's an XL or XLT and/or in less than good shape I would offer less. I recently went through this when I bought my Excursion, and I ended up looking online and flying south to buy a truck that's never been exposed to road salt. With a truck that's over ten years old that's worth something, as rust is cost-prohibitive in most cases to repair. It was completely worth the hassle of travelling to get mine.

 

I agree with crazy. Most people.don't swap stuff for a financial advantage, they do it because its what they love and want something.different from the next guy

 

I sold mine 99 with 193k for $ 4,000 six months ago.They offer me $ 1,500 for traid in.Truck was like new with no rust.He is asking way too much.

 

Thats almost what I paid for my 7.3 excursion. Mine was a Midwestern truck its whole life and let me tell you I know it has rust. Hes asking too much. 200k miles is alot for a gas motor, The V10 is strong and reliable but I dont think they last as long as a diesel. Personally 6k would be a fair price given the area and mileage. I know on CL in near Chicago they are a dime a dozen. If you are prepared to spend that on a truck I would look in areas that don't get snow or salt. It makes a huge difference!

 

sounds a little pricey, but local market conditions will dictate that. For that kind of mileage, I'd think you could do better in the pricing department. As to "what to expect"... what kind of information are you looking for? There are a few known issues with the V10... the spark plug issue... the exhaust manifold & y-pipe issue... and the coil-on-plug system can occasionally be troublesome. The 4R100 transmission is ok, tho not stellar. The ESOF hubs need to be maintained & serviced pretty regularly. But overall, it should be a pretty reliable truck if it's been well-maintained.

I can't speak from too much experience tho... just a lot of research. I just bought my 2000 extended cab/short bed 4x4 V10 about 4 weeks ago. Mine had 73,000 miles on it. I bought it for $4200, but bear in mind that mine DOES have a salvage title- which decreases value quite a bit. Rust-free Arizona/California truck. So far, I haven't had any bad surprises. It smogged amazingly clean... runs great... tracks straight on the freeway... gets bounced around a bit from cross-winds, but I expected that from a big truck. Needs sway bar bushings, & probably shocks (SHOCK-tober!), needs a steering wheel clock spring (air bag code 32), & I'm still chasing a vacuum leak (A/C occasionally defaults to defroster on hills/hard acceleration), but is all pretty easy stuff to deal with, & not terribly expensive to fix. Mileage is as-expected... getting about 9-10 mpg in town, 15 mpg on the freeway with the cruise set at 67 & A/C on. I think it all depends on your expectations... I didn't expect a 12 year old truck to be trouble-free... especially if it's been used as a truck! If your expectations are realistic, I don't think you'll be disappointed.

 

So signs, but the rust IS there unless it has never been driven in the winter, which is unlikely with that many miles.

If you are serious about buying, look at trucks in the south (AZ, NM, etc.) Having NO RUST is a great place to start and well worth the cost of an airline ticket.

 

I have a 01 f250 4x4 crew cab v10 it has 225000 miles uses about a quart between oil changes. gets 14 on the highway for mileage. Has the xlt trim great truck. bought it 4 years ago for 6500.00 great truck for pulling 30 foot travel trailer don't know it's back there most of the time. high mileage has never bothered me on vehicles just need to check them over.

 

Dude I just bought that same model 2 weeks ago! 275,000 miles on mine. Paid $2,650, but had to take a bus from NY to Boston to get it. You can still find it "sold" on eBay, probably. Engine sounds almost perfect, and the truck was most definitely used hard by a mason company, but it was not abused. I'm into parts alone about $700 for ball joints and the ball joint press tool and bearing press tool, and all new bearings and bushings and axle seals and shocks. Didn't need to buy the ball joint press tool, but I only have Saturday and half of Sunday to work on my truck, and I have no garage, and so even though I know I can rent or borrow those, I need to get the job done. Got all new shocks too, and tie rod ends and various linkages. The dude at PepBoys failed me for NY inspection due to "loose steering," which was total BS because I had just driven to NY from Boston and amazed at how tightly I could stay with the 18 wheelers on the turns along I-91 and I-84. Because he was nice enough to give me a $1,500 quote for ball joints and bushings, and guarantee that will pass inspection. No thanks.

Lots of little annoying items to fix or live with on my truck. Dome light circuit is permanently closed somewhere, so the bulb needs to stay out. Lots of other items I wish were working, but for now I'll live with them. The headlamp switch twisted on and off okay, but when pulled to activate the fog lamps, it turns out the plastic **** was busted. $100 for the replacement part, although a pair of long nose pliers would have done the job to pull out the fog lamp switch. Replacement parts for the F350 are generally significantly more than for the F150. Plus, the exhaust system is welded together, so replacing the muffler, for example, requires a sawzall and being able to piece together what you need. I think the U joint in the rear is welded to the driveshaft too; it doesn't unbolt to be replaced.

The truck is a freaking monster all right. Accelerates to 80 mph never exceeding 3000 rpm's, and if I recall, last Sunday I was cruising at 80 mph at 2200 rpms. Smooth ride too. Really smooth, and although not quiet, the decibel level in the cabin was reasonable. Gotta be careful, of course, going in reverse and manuevering in general. The truck has a quarter mile turning radius.

What does suck most definitely, I thought my transfer case or rear differential was malfunctioning. The dude at PepBoys, where I take my new cars for inspection because they provide free parking for a week for an F 350 which is impossible to park in Manhattan, said "there's a whine coming from the rear end." So what the heck do I know about what an F350 is supposed to sound like? I took off the differential cover to see what I could see inside. No broken teeth; just reasonable looking wear. I'm not certain what a new pinion gearing is supposed to look like, but although clearly worn, this one didn't seem in need of immediate replacement. Then I couldn't get out of my gently sloping and wet grass and leaves driveway! Even in 4x4 low, I needed a running start to get up a 15 degree grade. What the heck?! So I did some testing on another hill with my dad, and only one tire was spinning in the rear, and the rear end was jumping up and down like a rodeo bull. Then in 4x4 mode, performance (getting up the hill) seemed like there was definitely something wrong with the drivetrain. Yet, minutes earlier, I was cruising at 80 mph on I-84 and the truck was wonderful. What's the problem? After hours of reading posts, etc., it turns out the F-350 is a work truck for hauling heavy stuff and doing real work, not weekend mountain men like myself. The truck is engineered to perform with a heavy load. Without a heavy load in the bed, the front end of the truck is a 3000 pound anchor, and the power at the rear wheels, at the contact point with the ground, along with the under performing Ford limited slip differential; well, the truck will be useless in the heavy snows and hills of PA, as it is now. Fortunately I have two 96 F-150s and a nice 4x4 Eddie Bauer Explorer to get places, but as it is there's no way I'll be pulling anyone out of trouble this winter with the F350. My 96 F-150 4x4 with ultra aggressive treaded tires was unstoppable in last years Winter. Plus right now the F350 has highway tires, not deep tread mud/snow tires. The LT275 75R16 tires are very hard to find used. I found really good LT265 tires for $45 each, but only 2 of them. They'll have to do, for now.

The suicide doors make loading and unloading a lot easier, for sure.

I have to carry a step ladder in the truck so my mom can get in and out.

So my truck at $2,650 plus, realistically, $1,000 in replacement parts, plus my weekend time, is what I'm into for my truck. Another $1,000 realistically too over the next year on the annoying items.

Check out most definitely if the spare tire has one of the anti-theft mechanisms, as mine does. I went to drop the tire to get more working room, and guess what, no anti-lock keyed extension anywhere to be found. So that really sucked. Most likely I will take my grinder and cut the spare tire retention bar to get the tire down. I don't know how to make an impression of the anti-theft device. It's not one of those where you can hammer on a socket; more like a torx type socket. I don't know what it's called.

Hope this helps.

Also, for what it's worth, regarding buying Southern vehicles, the cost of transporting a vehicle is amazingly lower then what you might expect. Of course you can't inspect the vehicle, but if there's something you don't like, just turn around and sell it. You may make a profit. My insurance broker thinks I'm crazy for the number of trucks I buy and sell in a year, just so I can check them out. I buy right, and almost always sell for at least what I paid. The dude thinks I'm running a used car dealership out of my NYC law office! If you find an eBay dealership in the South with a very high eBay rating, you'll have a better than average chance of getting a better deal then what you're looking at now.

 

i bought my 2000 f-250 v-10 2 years ago. It is a crewcab shortbed. I picked it up for $7000. I honestly dont remember what the mileage was when i bought it, but i think was prolly somewhere around 205,000. I still have and drive the truck almost daily and it now has almost 225,00 miles on it. I have not had one single problem with that truck since i bought it other than the o2 sensors went bad about a week ago. The truck runs great, smooth, burns no oil what so ever. I think his asking price is a little steep and i would offer him somewhere around 6500-7000. I would heavily suggest if you buy it, switch it over to a good brand of synthetic oil ( amsoil preferably ) and you'll have many good years to come out of it.

 

seems like a bit much.I have been to just about every vehicle auction/car lot near Savannah,GA in the past two months searching for a used superduty and that is definitely on the high end.I ended up finding a 1 owner 2000 F-250 superduty v-10 supercab 2wd XLT with 49,000 miles on it for $9,500.for $8,900 you should be able to find something with a lot less miles on it!