Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

F-350 suspension lift questions?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-05-2012, 11:30 PM
Nevergetstuck's Avatar
Nevergetstuck
Nevergetstuck is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
F-350 suspension lift questions?

I'm looking at different lifts online and my first question is,what is the difference between a kit and a system?

Second question is,what is a good lift (at least 6") that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?I was looking at sky jackers and it's $1700 and still has options to add,I don't know if they're extras or you actually need them,I'm new to adding lifts. The only lifted truck I've had I bought that way.

Third,would a 6" lift be enough for 40" tires on a 92-97 F-350?

Fourth,what is a "nitro shock" and what is a "hydro shock"
Sorry for all the questions.

This is the site I was looking at Suspension Lift Kits, Save up to 30% | 4WheelOnline.com
 
  #2  
Old 10-05-2012, 11:55 PM
GNR22's Avatar
GNR22
GNR22 is offline
Fabri-cobbler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,163
Received 515 Likes on 340 Posts
1)From every place I've seen, they just interchange the word kit and system. However, after looking at the link you put there, the Kit has lift blocks in the rear that you add (unadvised, as you already have a 4" block in the back) and the System has replacement rear springs, so you remove yours and put theirs in.
2)Sky Jacker stuff is usually pretty tough, and a lot of times, you get what you pay for.
You need the drop pitman arm on a lift that big to correct your steering. The steering stabilizer is really optional, but with 40" tires on there, you may want to run at least a single one to take out some of the jerkyness of the wheel.
3)Yes a 6" lift is plenty to clear 40" tires. The only problem you may run into, is you may have to trim your front bumper a little, but I think you will be high enough that you won't have to do that.
4)As far as I've read based on their site, the nitro shock is meant for more offroad use than the hydro shocks are. I have nitro shocks (ranchos) on my truck and I like them.
 
  #3  
Old 10-06-2012, 01:53 PM
Nevergetstuck's Avatar
Nevergetstuck
Nevergetstuck is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks man,you've helped me a lot.
Right now I'm working on selling my current truck so all of these questions are for future reference,I'm hoping to get the F-350 by December and having it done by Feb. or so. I will post pictures when I get it!
 
  #4  
Old 10-06-2012, 04:13 PM
GNR22's Avatar
GNR22
GNR22 is offline
Fabri-cobbler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,163
Received 515 Likes on 340 Posts
No problem buddy, I'm looking forward to the pictures.
 
  #5  
Old 10-06-2012, 04:28 PM
bashby's Avatar
bashby
bashby is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I'm not sure about the terms hydro and nitro, but I do know they gas charge shocks to prevent the oil from cavitating and turning to foam. I'm guessing hydo is a basic hydralic shock and nitro is a nitrogen charged gas shock.
 
  #6  
Old 10-06-2012, 05:05 PM
jumbofordman's Avatar
jumbofordman
jumbofordman is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bashby
I'm not sure about the terms hydro and nitro, but I do know they gas charge shocks to prevent the oil from cavitating and turning to foam. I'm guessing hydo is a basic hydralic shock and nitro is a nitrogen charged gas shock.
Yep, generally a hydro shock is not gas charged, and a nitro is nitrogen charged (meaning it will constantly expand until it can't (either the weight of the vehicle or the stops limit it.)

If you are on a budget, you can always get blocks for the back now, and change them to springs later if there is too much axle wrap (i.e. hopping.)
 
  #7  
Old 10-06-2012, 10:37 PM
GNR22's Avatar
GNR22
GNR22 is offline
Fabri-cobbler
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,163
Received 515 Likes on 340 Posts
Originally Posted by jumbofordman
If you are on a budget, you can always get blocks for the back now, and change them to springs later if there is too much axle wrap (i.e. hopping.)
But why buy something that's inferior and known to cause problems? You'd be better off spending the money for the springs now, so you only have to take apart the rear end once and only have to buy one product.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
metalguy1969
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
19
01-30-2019 07:00 PM
NewEnglander
1978 - 1996 Big Bronco
11
01-20-2011 10:41 AM
00excdiesel
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
10
04-16-2007 11:09 PM
outlawnbfd
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
10-05-2006 09:24 AM
Edgunz
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
3
04-10-2004 12:37 AM



Quick Reply: F-350 suspension lift questions?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:14 AM.