I have been looking up information regarding driveshafts, as my truck has a bent one. I realize I can get it repaired, but would rather find a cheaper "new" one.
So, I tried looking up the information, but there were different kinds, I didn't know where to begin. This is what I've found out.

Here is a picture of the different types of driveshafts:

I have the Type 4.

Just for my truck configuration (according to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market) there are:

133" WB, M.T., 4x4, flange joint (thru 1/84)
133" WB, M.T., 4x4, slip yoke joint (from 2/84), non-removable carrier
133" WB, M.T., 4x4, slip yoke joint (from 2/84), removable carrier
133" WB, M.T., 4x4 (1983)

Heres the issue. My cab (Dated 10/83) and frame (built ~50,000 units later) are from different trucks. This is my best guess at which driveshafts I need,
based on the fact both frame and cab are 1984, and the current drivetrain setup. (F150, 4x4, 302, NP435, NP208, 8.8 rear, 133" WB)
My transfer case has a fixed yoke, and the driveshaft has the slip yoke joint in it.

So, here we finally get to my questions.

1: Using the above bolded term, what is a flange joint?
2: What is a removable / non-removable carrier?
3: In relation to the slip yoke, are they (Car Part.com) referring to the one in the x-case, or driveshaft?
4: Would I be able to use any 1/2 ton driveshaft the correct length (measured on the tube) from 1980-1996?
5: I have the parts book from HipoParts garage, and in section 46.2, page 21 (or 582 in the Adobe pages) I believe is my driveshaft part number. Am I correct?

Thanks for reading my long winded post!

 

Answers in red



133" WB, M.T., 4x4, flange joint (thru 1/84)
133" WB, M.T., 4x4, slip yoke joint (from 2/84), non-removable carrier
133" WB, M.T., 4x4, slip yoke joint (from 2/84), removable carrier
133" WB, M.T., 4x4 (1983)

If you had to unbolt the driveshaft from the back of the x-fer case, you would need #1
If you slipped the shaft out of the transfer case and have a 8.8" rear, #2
If you slipped the shaft out of the transfer case and have a 9" rear, #3
#4 - for 1983 only? That's what it seems like

 

Thanks ChopTop. So I'm guessing the flange is this on the ends of the shaft:
But on the other hand, I can remove the u-joints by unbolting small u-bolts that go around the ends of the joints. Like this:

 

Flange and slip-joint would refer to how the driveshaft goes into the rear of the trans or x-fer case. Both of those pictures are flange style rears. The front will determine what style you have.

The second pic is more what you would have (if you also have the 8.8" rear, non-removable carrier).

I was going to add something else, but forgot what it was.....

 

A flange yoke is what is on left end of your double cardan unit.
If it's the tube that's bent, have you checked with your local driveline shop what they'd charge to cut off the tube yoke and slip joint and weld them to a new tube and balance it?

 

The top picture in my second post is from a Bronco on another site. My flange joint on the axle end is just like the second picture, and very similar to the x-case end. I'd take pics of my truck, but its 1 1/2 hours away from me at the moment.

I haven't found a local driveline shop yet, but did find a rear driveshaft that matches the measurements of my current driveshaft. 48" on the tube, and 58" fully compressed, measured from both centers of each u-joint, for $65.

 

I doubt you could get a new tube welded in for under $65. I'd put new u-joints in any used driveshaft you get.

 

Definately new u-joints. The front needs it too, but that will be a project for a later day.

 

So as an update for this thread, I wound up buying the driveshaft from a local yard, from their shelves out back. $75 was the final price. It even still has the part number from Ford on it. E3TZ is only slightly visable, and couldn't get it in the picture.

So I'm now wire brushing and will paint it soon. Which color should I paint it, Ford Blue, or the factory color? (Which I assume was black)

Also, should I keep the part number sticker on, or take it off?

 

Check the u-joints before you install it. If they are the greaseable type you should be able to pump grease until you see new grease coming from around all 4 seals. If you can't, replace the u-joints before installing.

 

Alan - I'm late to the party. Sorry. But, I've learned something about drive shafts in the last couple of days - the splined joint on your shaft and mine is a point of vibration. In other words, if the splines are not excellent the wear will allow the shaft to swing out, causing the shaft to go out of balance, causing more wear, which causes more vibration, which causes...... Further, replacing the "stub and slip" as it is called is EXPENSIVE. The shop called today and my bill for cutting them out, welding new ones in, and balancing will be $341. So, I hope your "new" shaft is tight in the splines, but check it by pushing sideways at the joint. Any movement and you have wear.

 

Rover, Im putting new u-joints on, and they're greaseable.

Gary, thanks for the info. Ill be checking that out.

 

Doh! Misread your previous post about them. I thought you meant project for another day meant all of them, but realize you meant the front.

 

I wish I knew how to pull the slip off the stub to check the splines, but I don't. If you figure it out please let me know.

 

Typically they either just pull out or there's a "nut" on the female part that unscrews and let's you pull it out. Be sure to mark it before you do. Some are keyed and can only go in one way, some are not.
If you can get it apart it would be good to clean out all the old dried grease.