So... had her idling for about 10 minutes to warm up before going to see how swapping over the wheels feels and with the engine warm... i gave her a little bit of throttle in park to listen to the turbo spool up and after about 10 seconds at 2k rpm it just cut out like the ignition was shut off. Wont start back up.

Checked oil... good.
Checked hpop reservoir... full
Checked fuel bowl... full of clean diesel...
Voltage is 11.3v while cranking.
All fuses check out. Not just visual... i tested continuity.
I have a tach reading while crankng.

No smoke coming out the tailpipe while crankng. That tells me injectors are not firing yah?

Causes for injector no fire all the way around?

Xtof

 

Oh and when i try to start her up i turn on the key and all the dash lights work normally. No ses light. I get the normal wait to start light time.

Xtof

 

I just went through that headache with my truck, ended up being my IDM. It just fried. I ordered a high performance one from swamps diesel & got her back up & running. If u have a buddy with a 7.3 do a swap like I did to confirm if your IDM is good or not. Also try pulling the electromagnet off the IPR & test it

 

Oi and one other thing... when i checked my oil it was pretty bubbly on the dipstick... i would asmost call it foamy..

With all my dash lights working normally... that means my pcm is probably ok right?
What causes foamy oil? Hpop reservoir is full... so its doing its job... but how about the hpop itself... coult it have just kicked the bucket? Could it have been in its way out... causing my sluggish perfirmance and attributing to my low boost pressure and low mpg's?

Xtof

 

It's cheap and easy to switch out a CPS.

 

The plug that the connector clicks into on the ipr wiggles a little bit. It is fully connected with the wire clip holding it down but the whole thing moves a little bit... and loosely if that makes sense.

I dont see any signs of oil coming out of any of the connectors on top of the motor. Everything visually looks ok... no sign of chaffed wires or loose connections.

How can i test my idm? How can i test my ipr...?

I am seeing 200rpm on the tach while i am cranking... so that means the cps is working right?

Fuel pump is kicking on and it fills the bowl. Still dont have a fuel pressure gauge.

Xtof

 

Not 100% sure about testing the IDM, other then swapping with another one like I did. The plug on the IPR is going to wiggle a little. Just loosen the tin nut on the back & remove it & the spacer, then the electromagnet will slide off of the valve body. Use a digital ohm meter to test between the contacts, it should hold a steady reading between 10 & 11 ohms. If it fluctuate's up & down then it is bad

 

Here is a tech bulletin for things to test before IDM replacement.

GB_Tech_Bulletin_103_Ford IDM_Module_Replacement.pdf

But I don't actually think that is your issue. Possible IPR issue is my thought.

No real way to test the IPR except to ohm it out, or pull it apart and inspect.

But if you have a way to view live data you can verify to some extent that the IPR and IDM are working.

 

Unfortunately, i havent been able to spring for ae yet.
Ill go pull the electro majiger off the ipr and ohm it out. I really hope thats all thats wrong with her.

Xtof

 

It's tough without proper diagnostics.

Aeration in the oil could be a cracked oil pickup...

If you want to pull the entire IPR you could inspect it as well.

IPR Rebuild - Large Pics.pdf

 

So the electromagnet ohms out at 10 and does not fluctuate.
That means it is ok right... at least the electromagnet part of it.

So that leaves me with a bad idm ?

If that is the case... is it the box behind the instrument cluster?
If i have to replace it are there any specific things i need to prepare for?

What are the chances this is hpop related?
Truck has been very sluggish, and gradually gotten a smidge better with all the r&r and mods. But even with new up pipes... very low boost pressure, very high egt's, and horrible economy... like 10mpg at 65. Was getting that yesterday morning round trip victoria to jourdanton. Gutless too. Any way to test my hpop without ae?

Xtof

 

IDM failures are pretty rare. A BUZZ test would verify, live data could show IPW for reference too. I know you said you don't have diagnostic tools, but just making you aware, this is what is really needed to pinpoint the issue. I can speculate all day long, but without knowing, it's tough.

It is located here, obviously you don't have to remove the fender to remove it, it's just a visual reference. Remove the inner fender liner and look up behind the F-XXX badge.



Did you remove the IPR valve itself? I would find that more likely to be stuck or have junk in it, than an HPOP or IDM.

 

Unplug the ICP and try to start it.

 

Remove the IPR, clean it and reinstall.

Sounds like a classic case of plugged up IPR.

More so since you just put the motor back in.

 

Pulled the icp connector off and gave it a try... no go. She cranked plenty hard with plenty of voltage... no start... and with the icp unplugged... ses light stayed on, and no oil pressure on gauge. So that means the icp is doing what its supposed to be doing.

Im off to find a 29mm supur dupur deep well... and a nice new pipe wrench... my current arsenal is pretty beat up from machine shop/ oil field work.

Just out of curiosity... what else might i be overlooking? If the ipr and idm turn out to be just hunky dory... where would one look next?

Xtof