Im getting ready to tear into her n replace the oil cooler and egr. Just wonderin if someone could post the best video or step by step instructions to tearing it down and all the seals and gaskets im gunna need. Thanks in advance.

 

OIL COOLER REBUILD INFO


TURBO REMOVVAL
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...%20Removal.pdf
INTAKE MANAFOLD REMOVAL
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...%20removal.pdf
OIL COOLER REMOVAL
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...er_Removal.pdf
OIL COOLER NAVSTAR
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...20Navistar.pdf
OIL COOLER REPAIR
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...r%20Repair.pdf

 

I changed mine a couple months ago and took a bunch of pictures. It's an '06 model so if your working on an '03- early '04 it will look a little different. Here is a link to the thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...many-pics.html
It's not a great how-to thread but it will give you a good idea of what stuff looks like and som practical considerations for getting the job done. A few members chimed in with good ideas along the way. I read through it the other day and realized I didn't post my parts list but this is what I got to do the job:


6.0 parts

I went with the Bullet Proof Diesel upgraded EGR cooler on my '06:
NT-EGRC-1 Square, Lifetime warranty $350
90100033. EGR cooler gasket set complete (has intake gaskets) $134.95
They give you 30 days to get your core back to them, they provide pre-printed labels.
Core charge. $50
Shipping wasn't free $25.11 (S. Alabama)
So, BPD total was $510.06 after core credit.

Got the Oil Cooler Kit from Tousley's. Came in a genuine Ford parts box with instructions from MAXXFORCE Adavanced Diesel Power. Comes with seal kit.
3C3Z-6A642-CA $241.47
Free shipping.

I got 2 Fumoto valves for the block drains from quickoildrainvalve.com
F108N valve with nipple (2 each) $53.90
Group buy discount (DSC-7). -$8.08
Shipping $6.00
Total. $51.82

And from my local Dealership:
4C3Z-9B246-F. STC fitting kit (upgraded 1 piece w/seals) list $67.08 BIL* $50.31
6E7Z-9A332-A. Stand pipes (seals pre-installed 2each) list$145.66 BIL. $95.00
-W302908. Dummy plugs (2 each). list$47.16. BIL. $35.38
Total. $196.05. (* BIL is brother in law price)

Also, add chemicals, fluids and misc. (new tools, Beer )


Good luck with it. It's really not too bad if you have a good back. I'm sure if I did another one I could do it much faster.

 

Rusty - About how many hours did it take you? Are you a very skilled mechanic or a guy not afraid to figure things out?

Sorry if that sounds weird - but by trade I'm nothing close to being a mechanic. But not afraid to give things a shot.

 

Jar have you ever Wrenched on a Moter???

Iv seen people with little Experiance do Good

And I also seen some Make a Big Mess

so how much experiance do you have???

Rusty is a Helicopter Mechanic I think Plus he does a Little Rocket Science to Spent some Time at NASA

 

I forget the exact number but it was something like 25hrs start to finish. I've turned wrenches since I was a teenager, allways been a "car guy". 27 years as an aircraft weapons Tech has made me kinda picky about cleaning up stuff. I know a guy turning wrenches for a living wouldn't take the time I did. It's unnecessary and time consuming to spitshine parts you (hopefully) wont be seeing for a long time. I'm just used to seeing clean parts. Also, I had very little diesel experience before I bought this truck and looking under the hood when I brought it home I might as well been looking at a human brain , so it was a good chance to roll stuff around and think about how it works.
If your handy with a wrench, haves some basic skills and know how to keep your parts and hardware straight, It's not too bad of a job. I would think a real mechanic could do what I did in 8 or 10 hours pretty easy. and someone who has experience with the 6.0 and a few special tool together-even less time.
I'm not trying to talk you into (or out of) doing this job but if you have another ride while the trucks down so you dont have to be in a giant hurry about it and you have all the parts on hand (and there's no suprise broken stuff) it's definately doable.

 

On 2003 to 2004.5 the intake wraps behind the turbo requiring it to be removed.

On 2004.5 and newer trucks the turbo does not need to be removed.
it is the best time to inspect or upgade /clean the turbo but i have removed the intake without removing the turbo on a few trucks now.

It is a little bit shadey but if you chop off the egr cooler support on the manifold it will slip past the turbo snail. i have done this a few times as stated before and none have come back to the shop with issues.
one was a egr cooler replacement and the others were egr delete's
to get the 8mm bolt at the rear of the passenger runner just remove the v-clamp and pry up on the downpipe untill there is a gap to get the bolt up.
then pulling up slightly on that bolt and the intake push it back untill you can pull the bolt up from behind the down pipe.
after its out the intake will come out easily and there is lots of room to work with the turbo still bolted to the pedestal.

PS: cut that mounting brace for egr cooler as soon as possible.
I usually cut it after i get the intake free. but i stuff rags under the intake and all around the open parts of the engine.
i use a cordless sawsall to cut that tab.
then remove intake and very carefully roll all the rags into themselfs to trap the aluminum filings. then take a grinder and clean the cut up on the intake.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I'm handy with tools but lack experience. I'm not afraid to get dirty and have at least average common sense but this would be the most advanced thing I've ever done by far. Frankly I wouldn't even entertain it before I joined FTE - the knowledge and the way everyone supports each other is nothing short of incredible.

Funds are short right now, but ultimately I would like to install the BPD oil cooler and EGR delete by December. I imagine that while I'm there it makes sense to take care of a few other things.

I'm thinking if I started on a Friday afternoon and took Monday off it could give me enough buffer to cover me from a fudge factor. Bigger concern is keeping all of the parts I remove labeled, organized and putting everything back in the right order to prevent extra work. As I've gotten older I've gotten a little more patient so hopefully that will help

 

Not sure I have ever heard anyone removing an intake without removing the turbo.

Josh

 

Is the easiest way i have found.
afterall...
I was the guy that pulled the 6.0l out of my f350 with only taking off the hood. and every part off the engine. Comes out like the 7.3l once your at the longblock
lots of people never heard of that either have photos to prove it.
also had a stage 3 seperated shoulder when i put it back in(Talk about a pain)
Like i said its a shadey move. no problem at all if a egr delete has or is being done.
I just figured that the egr cooler was mounted in good enough and didnt need that mount as it has a rubber spacer
It is the only shortcut i take with the 6.0l

 

Guys maybe Im just Anel but I think I would take the Time to unbolt it

VS Take a SawZall And Hack the truck Apart

A turbo really isnt that bad to unbolt and remove



PLUS if your working on an 05+ mODEL you need to remove the turbo to get at the HPOP to do the STC fitting upgrade

 

The deletes are extremely popular in canada. That's why I cut it. no use after the coolers gone
If it was my truck I probably would cut it on the workbench.
The one I did with the cooler the guy wasn't going to change the stc fitting.
I barely convinced him to change the oil cooler and the screen under it was ripped.
Thank god they gave one in that kit.

When cleaning out the soot in the intake soaking it in spray nine works awesome.
Just keep spraying It as your working on the oil cooler.

 

I can see how removing the mount tab could be a good idea on a deleted competition truck that you may be going back into sometimes but on a daily driver that's going to have an EGR cooler I would want it to stay. Any movement or weight on the exhaust would be held by the connection where the cooler bolts to the underside of the manifold at the front end. I'm not really interested in shortcuts. Been there-done that and I hate that nagging feeling of worry that hangs around after the job is done.

 

I just finished up taking cab off and doing a head job on my 05 cpl of months ago. I had no idea what I was doing, these guys are great and if you are specific with your questions for the most part they will answer them..... turbo can be removed in 15 mins easy..... Just my thoughts