I have a 88 f250 with a 5.8 with bad exhaust manifolds.
what do you think the chances are getting the bolts out?
Have any of you done this job and have any little tricks?
Should I just leave it alone it is just a truck I have to plow the driveway.
I would like to fix it but am I opening a can of worms?
If it matters it's a 1988 F250 4x4 reg cab auto no a/c

 

Any exhaust leak upstream from the O2 sensor will cost you money in lost MPGs. The O2 sensor will continually send a lean signal to the PCM which eventually may trigger a Check Engine Light. The extra fuel that gets dumped in by the computer, because of the false lean signal, could also start to wash down the cylinder walls, which leads to scoring, and dilute the oil which leads to bearing failure. Get the picture?

I have never broken off a bolt or stud in a cylinder head doing exhaust manifold work. Soak the bolts for a few days with PB Blaster. Then when it comes time to remove them start the truck, let it come up to full temperature then start removing the bolts. Works good for me.

 

Myself I'll try and remove the bolts first, some come right out but usually by that point the heads of the bolts are all rusted away, round no corners for any socket to grab.

Some yea knock a MM socket on, 6 point is a must of course regardless.

I take out any that readily will do so then blow the heads off the remainder with a torch. Slide the manifold off those now headless studs, then remove em once the manifolds are out of the way.
Often can unscrew the bolts with fingers at that point, some can require vise grips and then not uncommon for one or more requiring heating up too for removal from head.

If in doubt I'll heat one up before taking a chance it might snap off flush with the head.

I use stainless allen head bolts and flat washers to put em back on. Allens don't have the outer corners standard hex head bolts rely on, readily corrode away. Wrench grabs allens from inside rather then outside so odds are little better.

Then add stainless just plain outlasts regular type steel bolts in that type application, so much better chance get em out easy if/when need remove them again at some point.

 

Thanks,
I'm gonna give it a shot. I just replaced all the brake lines this weekend so I guess I have my work cut out for me next weekend.

 

Having some experience with Allen bolts on the German cars I own, they strip out easy as heck, then you have a real problem as the only solution then is to either cut off the head and hope the remaining stud unscrews or hammer in a larger allen wrench and hope it grabs. I definitely wouldn't install them anywhere I didn't have to install them.