Getting close to starting up my V8 flathead and I've heard many comments about oil for these old engines. I have not read anything lately and am wondering what oil I should use. Anyone have any comments?

thanks in advance'

 

I use this stuff after a lot of suggestions from a lot of people from here, the flathead forum, shoeboxford, and the barn. Shell Rotella 15W-40. But never fear...you'll probably get a dozen different suggestions.....and then the inevitable detergent vs. non-detergent oil comment will come up....enjoy

 

Comp cams recommends the Shell Oil also. Whatever you use make sure it has zinc additives, also known as ZDDP. Very important, especially for new engine break in period. LOL

 

I don't have a flathead, but my 302 does have a flat tappet cam which has similar concerns. I was using regular oil and adding the ZDDP additive. I have since switched to Mobil1 15W50 synthetic which has the zinc and phosphorus levels needed for the older flat-tappet engines. Note that only the 15W50 has the additives.

I also use the Rotella T6 in my diesel truck. It's good oil.

-DV

 

It really isn't critical, the valve spring pressures on flatheads are very low. But err on the side of caution if you replaced the cam or lifters, especially with new parts (not refurbished). Most important is to change the oil soon after you've broken in the rings. Here's a good guide to break-in: Break-in Procedure

 

How clean did you get the block?
Unless all the oil passages bere soaked, brushed and blasted use a non-detergent
I use a shell ND30 in both my F2 and my 57 Massy tractor

 

Welcome!

This is what I use in my
racetruck
flathead F4
"street car" sbc solid life flat tap cam
67 vw 1600cc air cooled

not any any of my '89 and up rides

 

Is it really possible that over the 60+ years those trucks were on the road, detergent oil was never used?

 

My luck dictates that Doo Doo will occur - There isn't a price difference so why not

 

Because you are building NEW sludge, and preserving the old (if any)

 

Hehe. As predicted, here we go. This is a picture of what was left of the oil pump that I had to literally BEAT out of a flathead that I own. All that was left was the shaft and the gear on the end of it. After I broke the housing of the pump completely off, I finally just hooked 2 pairs of vice grips REALLY tightly onto that shaft and then used a 4 foot pry bar and a BFH to get it out. It was in there like concrete. That "cylinder" is a big glob of old dry oil and sludge that filled the hole where the pump sits. So needless to say, I will never use non-detergent oil.





The flathead in my 49 was stuck very hard when I bought it, and it had sludge everywhere. I kept changing the oil and removing the inspection plate on the bottom of the pan. After about 4 oil changes, I no longer had a "plate-full" of sludge to remove.

 

I'm trying to quite some of the rattleing and pounding coming from the motor

 

Thanks for all the comments. In my research I came across this site that agrees with using Rotella 15w-40. (petroleum Quality Institute of America)

I did a complete teardown and hot tank of the engine with brushing the oil passages so I think I'm OK there.

Thanks for the breakin proceedure Ross.

 

Guys,


DON"T USE NON-DETERGENT oil in ANY ENGINE! EVER! THIS IS NOT 1940!

(and DON'T "FLUSH" ANY ENGINE! EVER!)

Other than the above..... I don't have any strong feelings on the subject!



Cheers,





EDIT: YES. but it was "ok" if you changed the oil before the "sludge" began to accumulate. (you had to change it frequently because there was NO 'detergent' to keep the combustion products in suspension......"detergents" AKA :"Ashless Dispersants" ......allow you to run the oil longer)


Rick

 

If you did the rebuild & cleaned everything, and you want to move into the 20th or 21st century, a good conventional detergent oil is probably a good idea. If you want added the added protection for your camshaft, Valvoline makes a high zinc/phosphorus oil called VR1. They add more of both to their racing oils, but the VR1 is available in 30wt and 40wt viscosities (and some others). It is a conventional (non-synthetic) oil. It usually runs around $5 per quart.

The Brad Penn is good oil too, but it isn't available in stock anywhere near me.

I'd like to hear if anyone running flatties is using synthetic oil.