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I am going to be moving to Europe for about 3 years, and will not be taking my F250. It is going to be stored in a covered space. It will be in the cold winters of upstate new york, and I have family members that will drive it occasionally to keep the moving parts from freezing. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with storing a 6.2L for a long period of time. Any stabilizer reccomendations or suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
SDS...our family has a long history (40+ years) of storing vehicles (toys) for both short & long term durations..here is my recommendation for long term storage...
1. Once parked, don't drive it.....periodic operation can induce more problems than if you let-it-be in most cases.
2. Wash, wax it, completely clean the interior and place an open box on a tray on the floor of baking soda.....it will help absorb moisture
3. Tires.....today's tires will not get flat spots like those built befor 2000......overfill them by 10 psi and this will help to ensure roundness.....if you want to fill them with nitrogen, this is ok as well because it is no prone to temp changes, precludes moisture formation & dosen't leak (larger molecules). If exposed to sun, place large trashbags (contractor type) over theem to protect against UV light.
4. Fuel- add fuel stabilizer (I like Marvel Mystery Oil) and fill tank to the top......fuel will begin to "turn" to a varnish like substance beginning at 6 months, with enough fuel stabilizer, this will prevent that. Filling to the top will eliminate as much air in the tank as possible which is a requirement for condensation & "turning" of the gasoline...this helps to stop it. I personally don't like to drain a system because especially using the MMO, it lubricates the "moving parts", which although it still sometimes happens, will help prevent hardening of o-rings, gaskets, injectors, etc.
5. ensure all fluids are topped off, lube/grease everything including graphite in all locks, dry lube in the window seals, etc. Don't bother changing fluids, etc...you will want to do this befor you fire it up upon your return. I would recommend purchasing a radiator anode (zinc) from JC Whitney...they sell for about $10, place it in the raditor overflow...it will act as a sacrfical lamb for the entire cooling system- keeping it corrosion free.
6. Pull the battery.....on a short term, disconnecting the terminals is ok, long term, pull it just in case....especially with temp changes, although very rare, a crack in a battery case undetected can do a lot of damage.
7. Place a plastic bag over the end of the air intake tube or filter...this will help keep bugs/dirt out.
8. If there is a potential for rodents, place a few moth ***** in the engine compartment.....if the storage facility has cats, forget it...the cats will do the work.
When its time to start it for the 1st time, check all the fluids, change the oil (this will provide some lube from the top down in the engine) spin the engine over for 30 seconds...it may or may not start- its ok....wait 1 minute, repeat......the 1 minute is a good cooldown for the starter and the 30 second duration will not overly stress any component. By the 2nd or 3rd round, it should start...probably run a little rough, but it will be ok. After 50 miles of driving time, drain all the fluids & replace (coolant may be ok), but definitely engine, tranny, power steering, brake.
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Certified backyard mechanic I & II
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