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need help identifying rear end

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Old 09-23-2012, 08:36 PM
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need help identifying rear end

I bought this frame for my 56 and have no knowledge about rear ends and gears. i plan on using a 351 in it for a nice "drive around town" truck with a little gitty up. Can anyone tell me what rear end i have, is it good for my plan, and are there any upgrades i need to do or can do, thanks
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 08:37 PM
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dont know how to put multiple pictures yet or rotate them, sorry
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:50 PM
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Is this a spicer 44 ???
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 10:06 PM
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Edit. I am wrong. It may inxeed be a 44. I can't see it well enough. Sorry.
 
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:58 PM
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Is that a good rear end. Can I do anything with it.
 
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:57 PM
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I wasn't sure what I had and I needed new wheel cylinders. I took one of them to Advance Auto Parts and they measured the bore and looked up the size in a book and were able to tell me what the rear end was out of... Just a thought.
 
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:06 PM
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That looks like a Dana 44, I really can't tell from the pictures
 
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:06 PM
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Unless there is a tag on it, the only way to tell the ratio is by turning a wheel 1 revolution (or 10 for more accuracy) and counting how many times the pinion rotates including partial rotations. If it turns just shy of 4 turns (or 39 turns for 10 wheel rotations) the ratio is approximately 3.9:1, if it turns just over 4 turns (or 41) the ratio is 4.1:1, etc. Checking a spec sheet of available ratios for that axle in 56 will zero in on the ratio. It's not noted for being a strong axle, having desirable ratios, ease of working on, etc. If you can live with the ratio, the seals and bearings are good, brake drums are able to be refaced and you plan on driving it like your grandfather would have, it may be servicable. If you have to put any money or time into it, are likely prone to doing occasional stoplight burnouts, or driving it much on the interstates, you would be better served and money ahead putting in a later 9" or Explorer 8" (especially if you want disk brakes all around).
 
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:28 PM
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Look at the body of the differential housing; there should be a cast-in number if it's a D-44 (which it looks like it is). Should be good enough to handle a warm 351 as long as you aren't beating on it, but the ratio is almost certainly higher than you'll want. Is the 5-sp an OD trans? If so the rear end may be just right.
 
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:37 PM
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No trans yet. Just trying to figure out if I want to keep this one before I start on the rear suspension. Might go with an explorer rear
 
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:41 PM
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Your tail is wagging the dog. First finalize the engine/transmission choice, then the tire size and fuel mileage/performance desired. Use a calculator to determine best rear axle ratio. Research which rear axle(s) that fit were commonly available in the right ratio range then find the rear axle. Meanwhile use the Dana as is so that you have a moveable frame off the floor.
 
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:00 PM
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Unfortunately you may be right. The only thing I am weak at is engine, trans and gears...I can put a body together and do mods and custom work all day long but don't know squat about building an engine. I am trying to get the mustang II done next week and it would be nice to get the proper rear and four link in so I have a true roller. I am trying to put off getting an engine for a while till I have more support
 
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:14 AM
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i definitely wouldn't waste the time, effort, or expense to put a 4 link on that rear axle. If you are going that far use a late model axle like the Explorer. i would have to know a whole lot more about your plans for your truck to offer much more than a ballpark recommendation on axle ratio. I don't know what ratios the Ex axle is readily available in, but most should be in a useable range.
I'd recommend for a small block + trans without OD something in the 3.0 - 3.3 range for cruising, 3.5 - 3.7 range for short distance performance, 4.1 for high reving dragstrip use, with OD you can move to the next lower (higher #) ratio.
 
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Old 09-27-2012, 06:52 AM
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I probably will just be driving around town. With all the money and work I am planning to do I don't think I will be doing any burn outs and definitely not drag strippin. I thought about the explorer rear, I was going to do a mono leaf in the rear to get a lower stance but I heard the four link gives a better ride quality. I have a mustang II in the front with a three inch drop and I wanna drop the rear also. Trying to figure out what I should do I the rear
 
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:17 AM
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I'm pretty good with suspensions. Here's my take on rear suspension for our trucks:
triangulated 3 link, triangulated 4 link, parallel 4 link, trailing arm, parallel leaf, full independent, air bag suspensions all have little affect on or difference in ride quality. Ride quality is much more dependent on spring and shock rates. Each of the different designs do affect the handling and or traction in different ways, but a pickup with it's nose heavy weight distribution and high center of gravity is always going to compromise handling. The solid rear axle also compromises handling. It is never going to ride like a luxury sedan and/or handle like a sports car without a complete chassis redesign. When Ford Racing attempted to build a modernized 53 F100 with maximized ride and handling for the 50 year anniversary, they did just that, started with a clean sheet of paper and designed an elaborate new full independent chassis design and topped it with the panel truck body to improve the front-rear weight distribution.
My own choice for my truck: parallel leaf solid axle front and rear. With the right springs and shocks (and seating) the OEM design suspension can be made to ride very well and handle reasonably well for general cruising. It was a good compromise between cost, ease of installation, suitability for my purpose. No, it doesn't look as "trick" but I'm not interested in lawn shows, and I'll put it up against any M2 front, multilink rear for actual driveability. Matched full independent F and R would be my current first choice if I did it again, and didn't plan on towing a heavy trailer long distances, since there are now more suitable and affordable donors, I'd select a properly designed triangulated 3 or 4 link with coilovers or a trailing arm design for simplicity if I had a deep seated need to use a solid rear axle. Unless I was primarily going drag racing I would NOT select a parallel 4 bar or ladder bar. IMHO air bags are for show only, not for driving, monoleafs are a bad joke.
 


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