Build Thread; 1949 F2, Piglet
#1
Build Thread; 1949 F2, Piglet
I've been around for a while here and decided it was time to start a build thread.
"Piglet" has been in my possession since 1998, and I am, finally, committed to bringing her back to life.
She was built at the Richmond plant and spent her entire life in Northern California.
"Piglet" has been in my possession since 1998, and I am, finally, committed to bringing her back to life.
She was built at the Richmond plant and spent her entire life in Northern California.
#2
#3
#4
#5
I feel pretty lucky with "Piglet"...She's definitely a Farm Girl, and I don't want to change any of that. She's also pretty complete which is a plus.
So far: 1) Engine is, still, at the machine shop...we are close, but not quite there yet. I really don't mind, as I really want to rebuild the engine as close as possible to getting it running. 2) The front end rebuild is almost ready for re-assembly...I just have to see if the spring packs will clean up well enough for me... 3) Brake job...ready to go. Just have to find some wheel cylinder rebuild kits.
Once I get "Piglet" back on the ground I will focus on rebuilding the original 226 H flathead six.
"Keep moving forward!"
So far: 1) Engine is, still, at the machine shop...we are close, but not quite there yet. I really don't mind, as I really want to rebuild the engine as close as possible to getting it running. 2) The front end rebuild is almost ready for re-assembly...I just have to see if the spring packs will clean up well enough for me... 3) Brake job...ready to go. Just have to find some wheel cylinder rebuild kits.
Once I get "Piglet" back on the ground I will focus on rebuilding the original 226 H flathead six.
"Keep moving forward!"
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Mine is a 49 F3. I got my wheel cylinders from LMC truck, and other parts from Macs and Dennis Carpenter. After installing a new master cylinder, and all four wheels cylinders, the brakes work pretty well (takes a few pumps if you really want to stop). I'm going to switch out the front ones for discs. Try TSM manufacturing in Castle Rock, Colorado. What transmission do you have?
#9
Ok,Ok!...Here are a few pix of where I'm at now:
Front passenger side
Front spindles ready to be installed.
Where they're going to live.
Next is to pull the front clip for better access.
I pulled the engine without the tranny and I'm regretting that now. So I guess I'm going to pull the tranny to at least re-do the seals. It's a stock 4 speed "Crash" box, and I want to keep it that way. Rear Diff is a Timkin 51524 with a 4.85:1 gear ratio, I'd bet. I think I'd like to change that with one of Chuck's Trucks 4.11:1 gear sets, but I'll just drive it for a while and make those kind of decisions with more information.
I'll try and do a step by step clip removal write up.
Front passenger side
Front spindles ready to be installed.
Where they're going to live.
Next is to pull the front clip for better access.
I pulled the engine without the tranny and I'm regretting that now. So I guess I'm going to pull the tranny to at least re-do the seals. It's a stock 4 speed "Crash" box, and I want to keep it that way. Rear Diff is a Timkin 51524 with a 4.85:1 gear ratio, I'd bet. I think I'd like to change that with one of Chuck's Trucks 4.11:1 gear sets, but I'll just drive it for a while and make those kind of decisions with more information.
I'll try and do a step by step clip removal write up.
#10
Nice!!
Looks like you're making good progress.
As already been said, you can pick up wheel cyclinders at the local NAPA store.
If you're planning on pulling the front clip completly apart in the near future you should invest in a can of pentrating oil now and start soaking the gadzillions of fine thread bolts that hold the clip together. Sometimes its easier to simply tighten the bolts and break them off instead of trying to remove them.
The basic front clip comes off fairly easy; a handfull of bolts at the running boards, 2 bolts under the radiator, and two bolts at the lower inner fenders (if they are still there)
Have fun
Bobby
Looks like you're making good progress.
As already been said, you can pick up wheel cyclinders at the local NAPA store.
If you're planning on pulling the front clip completly apart in the near future you should invest in a can of pentrating oil now and start soaking the gadzillions of fine thread bolts that hold the clip together. Sometimes its easier to simply tighten the bolts and break them off instead of trying to remove them.
The basic front clip comes off fairly easy; a handfull of bolts at the running boards, 2 bolts under the radiator, and two bolts at the lower inner fenders (if they are still there)
Have fun
Bobby
#11
Mine is a 49 F3. I got my wheel cylinders from LMC truck, and other parts from Macs and Dennis Carpenter. After installing a new master cylinder, and all four wheels cylinders, the brakes work pretty well (takes a few pumps if you really want to stop). I'm going to switch out the front ones for discs. Try TSM manufacturing in Castle Rock, Colorado. What transmission do you have?
#13
You shouldn't have to push on the more than once. If you have to pump them to get the truck to stop there's something not right. Did you get the correct MC? The F-2 and F-3 have different MCs than the F-1. When I stomp on the pedal in my F-2 it'll come to a screaching halt, it also matters how much power you have in your legs. In the times when I had to do an emergency stop I put everything I had into it.
#14
Be careful with this idea. Drub brakes are self energizing and disk brakes are not. It takes more peddle pressure with disks to get the same stopping power you get with drums. Disks do not fade like drums when used hard. I had a 71 Chevy pickup with stock non power disk brakes and the brakes took an awful lot of leg power.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
drptop70ss
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
53
11-13-2018 08:06 PM
Wayne Waldrep
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
55
07-19-2014 05:18 PM