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vacuum leak

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Old 09-22-2012, 12:58 AM
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vacuum leak

Hi,

I have a rough idle problem and probably a performance one. I was wondering where I can get the specification on all the hose on my Ford Escape 2002 V6 3.0L.

There is evident wear on the vacuum hose especially the one that get out of the fuel vent canister if I am correct that pass near the egr valve and interconnect to some kind of of rubber canister on the firewall.

The engine seem affected by weather as well. When I drive no problem and even at the stop when it's not damped or raining but after I stop for a while it lower the rpm to something around 500-700 rpm and it feel like the engine want to get out and the dash dims.

I will start with the obvious, which will be the hose and then the egr valve and IAC but need at least the size of the hose so I can buy and replace them. Here are the code I retrieved.

Thank you in advance.

koer test
p1116
p1780
p1000
p1703
p1650
p1408

regular test
p0171
p0401
p0174
p0455
 
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:11 AM
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also there is only hot air coming from the top vent on the windshield, the other vent have no air/heat pushing regardless of what selection I chose.
 
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:06 AM
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I haven't found a listing of all the hose sizes, but there is a good chance you'll have many to replace depending on mileage. I have 120k on mine and replaced all the hoses that looked bad when I had the manifold off to change plugs and replace gaskets.
The vacuum hoses are the worst to deteriorate.
The easiest way to do it yourself...pick a hose, pull one end off and measure the ID and OD, guestimate the length, add half a foot and write all that down, reconnect the end, pick another hose and repeat...after you have a good list, go to the auto store and buy a few feet of each size. Don't forget to check the little elbow connectors and such also, but most part stores don't carry those.
Systematically replace them one at a time, from end to end, otherwise you risk rerouting stuff.
The hoses underneath foam-like insulators are usually OK, the little thin unprotected ones are usually all deteriorated, especially the ones under the upper intake manifold. Don't forget the short thick ones at the back of the intake and valve covers, and going to the PCV valve, might as well replace the PCV valve too.
As for the heater...no clue...haven't had to work on mine yet.
 
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by tacdrivrnc
I haven't found a listing of all the hose sizes, but there is a good chance you'll have many to replace depending on mileage. I have 120k on mine and replaced all the hoses that looked bad when I had the manifold off to change plugs and replace gaskets.
The vacuum hoses are the worst to deteriorate.
The easiest way to do it yourself...pick a hose, pull one end off and measure the ID and OD, guestimate the length, add half a foot and write all that down, reconnect the end, pick another hose and repeat...after you have a good list, go to the auto store and buy a few feet of each size. Don't forget to check the little elbow connectors and such also, but most part stores don't carry those.
Systematically replace them one at a time, from end to end, otherwise you risk rerouting stuff.
The hoses underneath foam-like insulators are usually OK, the little thin unprotected ones are usually all deteriorated, especially the ones under the upper intake manifold. Don't forget the short thick ones at the back of the intake and valve covers, and going to the PCV valve, might as well replace the PCV valve too.
As for the heater...no clue...haven't had to work on mine yet.
Ok, thank you, I ordered a kit and will probably change all of them, also ordered egr gasket and valve also the egr sensor with hose and manifold gasket kit upper and lower.
 
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Old 09-27-2012, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by titedents
also there is only hot air coming from the top vent on the windshield, the other vent have no air/heat pushing regardless of what selection I chose.
I don't have that generation of Escape, but just about every vehicle that I have had used vacuum to operate vacuum motors to position doors that direct air flow in the HVAC system. The default no-vacuum-applied position is Defrost, for safety reasons.

Usually a vacuum reservoir under the hood, with a hose going to it from intake manifold vacuum, and a check valve to hold reservoir vacuum when engine vac is low (like hard acceleration). And a vac hose from this stored vacuum goes through the firewall, to the climate control head in the dash, where it is distributed to various vac motors depending on the user's present settings.

So a major vac leak under hood can cause it. After you replace the vac hoses underhood, check again and see if it is now OK.
 
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:16 PM
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Seem that changing all the vacuum hose did the trick. I test the pressure on all of them and when they were all connected no apparent leak. There is other code like 1650,1780,1703(not sure on that one) but I have seen there is way to do the test like no OD on and you need to turn the tire a bit but again aside of that it seen ok. I will need to drive it for a while.

Thank you all for the input I may not be out of the wood yet but I am happy to have resolve that problem.
 
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