1992 f-150 no oil pressure when warm
#1
1992 f-150 no oil pressure when warm
1992 f-150 5.0L 127000 mile
I just bought the truck a couple months ago, have drive it around a little bit with no insodent. I knew the battery was bad and would have to jump it to start but ran fine after starting. Tried to go some where on the interstate and not 6 miles down the highway I started losing oil pressure so i pulled over and the engine died, I have a towed to the local ford dealership and they if the battery was bad enough it could kill it even while running(I know the alternator is fine), so I had the battery changed, started fine, took off again, didn't get much further, same thing happended. had it towed back, left it there over night, drove it home the next morning, had to take it out the next day to jump my car that some one let the battery die in, I got to where I was going and got the car started and by that time I was losing pressure agian, so i turned it off and left it there. talked to a local mechanic, he said worn bearings in the engine, too much clearance and the oil can just pass right by(I know now that the older blocks were made softer and tended to show wear after 120000, so if it is that the bearings are worn it is the right time in the mileage). I'm wondering if Its worth trying to use a heavier oil or just start over and look for a different truck. If it is worth it what weight of oil should I use, and with winter coming up am I going to be able to drive it with the heavier oil, if not is it because the oil will be too cold and thick to start? if so can i plug my block heater in and will that keep it warm enough to start?
Thank You
I just bought the truck a couple months ago, have drive it around a little bit with no insodent. I knew the battery was bad and would have to jump it to start but ran fine after starting. Tried to go some where on the interstate and not 6 miles down the highway I started losing oil pressure so i pulled over and the engine died, I have a towed to the local ford dealership and they if the battery was bad enough it could kill it even while running(I know the alternator is fine), so I had the battery changed, started fine, took off again, didn't get much further, same thing happended. had it towed back, left it there over night, drove it home the next morning, had to take it out the next day to jump my car that some one let the battery die in, I got to where I was going and got the car started and by that time I was losing pressure agian, so i turned it off and left it there. talked to a local mechanic, he said worn bearings in the engine, too much clearance and the oil can just pass right by(I know now that the older blocks were made softer and tended to show wear after 120000, so if it is that the bearings are worn it is the right time in the mileage). I'm wondering if Its worth trying to use a heavier oil or just start over and look for a different truck. If it is worth it what weight of oil should I use, and with winter coming up am I going to be able to drive it with the heavier oil, if not is it because the oil will be too cold and thick to start? if so can i plug my block heater in and will that keep it warm enough to start?
Thank You
#2
before doing anything, I'd stick a REAL oil pressure guage on the engine and see what's really going on.
The dashboard one's there to warn you of a failure and that's really about it.
Not saying it can't be accurate - but I wouldn't go making any decisions based on info it gives.
You can certainly go to a heavier weight oil without much trouble - not a bad idea for an older engine. But again - get a real measurement first.
The dashboard one's there to warn you of a failure and that's really about it.
Not saying it can't be accurate - but I wouldn't go making any decisions based on info it gives.
You can certainly go to a heavier weight oil without much trouble - not a bad idea for an older engine. But again - get a real measurement first.
#4
The engine that came with my truck was terribly worn out and knocked like a tired diesel. But it started up every time and never stalled out.
#5
before doing anything, I'd stick a REAL oil pressure guage on the engine and see what's really going on.
The dashboard one's there to warn you of a failure and that's really about it.
Not saying it can't be accurate - but I wouldn't go making any decisions based on info it gives.
The dashboard one's there to warn you of a failure and that's really about it.
Not saying it can't be accurate - but I wouldn't go making any decisions based on info it gives.
You have already stated that you've had electrical issues......
Did you know that the factory guage is resistance based and tied into the electrical system of the truck ?????
Your guage doesn't measure squat if you're having electrical/wiring issues.
I'd tell that "local mechanic" that said that your bearings were shot "I'll call you when I need you".
Just my .02 cents
Bob
#6
That's a totally unrelated symptom that you need to diagnose separately. My first guess would be a bad TFI, but that's a pure guess.
The engine that came with my truck was terribly worn out and knocked like a tired diesel. But it started up every time and never stalled out.
The engine that came with my truck was terribly worn out and knocked like a tired diesel. But it started up every time and never stalled out.
how is it totally unrelated when everytime i start to lose power the pressure gauge starts going all screwy, whether its accurate or not it doing something out of the ordinary and if it is an electrical problem why would it do it everytime at the same time right around the time that the engine is starting to get to normal operating temperature, if it were electrical it would either be all the time or random, not right when the oil is getting hot and more fluid and able to move past the worn bearings.
now I'm not a mechanic, so if it is electrical and i do have a problem (which obviously i do) shouldnt i call that mechanic now then? unless it will just get better by me asking it to.
#7
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#8
Exactly.
You have already stated that you've had electrical issues......
Did you know that the factory guage is resistance based and tied into the electrical system of the truck ?????
Your guage doesn't measure squat if you're having electrical/wiring issues.
I'd tell that "local mechanic" that said that your bearings were shot "I'll call you when I need you".
Just my .02 cents
Bob
You have already stated that you've had electrical issues......
Did you know that the factory guage is resistance based and tied into the electrical system of the truck ?????
Your guage doesn't measure squat if you're having electrical/wiring issues.
I'd tell that "local mechanic" that said that your bearings were shot "I'll call you when I need you".
Just my .02 cents
Bob
my electrical issue was a bad battery made worse by me having to start the truck by jumping the relay/solenoid because the starters shot and I cant afford a new one right now, and i replaced the battery, so other then that I dont have an electrical issue
#9
#10
This has NOTHING to do with oil pressure, it has EVERYTHING to do with the electrical system, read the DTC codes and there is a very good chance the coolant temp sensor for the computer is out of range or something like that...
#11
what battery charging issue? if you had read my original post you'd find that I already put a new battery in it and it starts fine, and also that the alternator is fine. and that after i had the battery replaced it did the same thing twice
and as far as the blocks thats just what the mechanic said, I was just saying that incase someone was going to bring it up as a cause of the problem, whether it be true or not.
I came here for help, not useless advice and nasty comments
(I'm not saying everythings useless, but if your going to tell me to do something that I have already said that i've done, thats useless)
#12
You are stubborn! EVERYONE here is telling you the "low" oil pressure has NOTHING to do with the engine dying. Yet YOU insist that is does. If you know so much, why even come on here looking for help.
The alternator must be bad. How do I know this? You put a new battery in. It started at at about 12.5Volts. Then when you are driving it, there are electrical draws(ECM, Fuel pump,injectors, ignition, radio,Power windows, etc) and this draws the battery down. Once you get down to about 9-10V the fuel pump, ecm, injectors, SHUT DOWN!!!!!!!!.
NOW, SHUT UP and listen to what we are saying
The alternator must be bad. How do I know this? You put a new battery in. It started at at about 12.5Volts. Then when you are driving it, there are electrical draws(ECM, Fuel pump,injectors, ignition, radio,Power windows, etc) and this draws the battery down. Once you get down to about 9-10V the fuel pump, ecm, injectors, SHUT DOWN!!!!!!!!.
NOW, SHUT UP and listen to what we are saying
#13
I'm argueing with people who arent helping me, just telling me I'm wrong, I dont hardly no jack about trucks, so sue me, I dont know why people think that they need to be nasty because of that. im defending my original thought because it makes sense, your that first person who has suggested some other problem that it may be, now I have something else to look into, but that doesnt mean that my thought is wrong, its just another possibility, and its just frustrating that ppl are giving me advice I dont need ( I already read elsewhere that the pressure gauge isnt worth anything) and telling me to do things I've already done and already stated that i've done. its also frustrating because no one is answering my questions. now i have reason to go get the codes checked but if its not that i'm still curious about whether the heavier oil will help and whether or not I would be able to use it that way in the winter.
Thank you for your suggestion
#14
how is it totally unrelated when everytime i start to lose power the pressure gauge starts going all screwy, whether its accurate or not it doing something out of the ordinary and if it is an electrical problem why would it do it everytime at the same time right around the time that the engine is starting to get to normal operating temperature, if it were electrical it would either be all the time or random
Get it out of your head that your problem is at all related to oil pressure. It is not. In fact, as others have suggested, you probably don't have a low oil pressure issues at all, but if you do, that's absolutely NOT what is causing your engine to stall.
#15
You are stubborn! EVERYONE here is telling you the "low" oil pressure has NOTHING to do with the engine dying. Yet YOU insist that is does. If you know so much, why even come on here looking for help.
The alternator must be bad. How do I know this? You put a new battery in. It started at at about 12.5Volts. Then when you are driving it, there are electrical draws(ECM, Fuel pump,injectors, ignition, radio,Power windows, etc) and this draws the battery down. Once you get down to about 9-10V the fuel pump, ecm, injectors, SHUT DOWN!!!!!!!!.
NOW, SHUT UP and listen to what we are saying
The alternator must be bad. How do I know this? You put a new battery in. It started at at about 12.5Volts. Then when you are driving it, there are electrical draws(ECM, Fuel pump,injectors, ignition, radio,Power windows, etc) and this draws the battery down. Once you get down to about 9-10V the fuel pump, ecm, injectors, SHUT DOWN!!!!!!!!.
NOW, SHUT UP and listen to what we are saying
i've had the alternator checked twice, how many times should i have it checked? and if it were that why would it start up fine after its died then cooled down if the alternator isnt charging it? i havent had to jump start it since i replaced the battery
and calm down, is trying to yell at me through a computer making you feel like a better person?