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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

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Old 09-20-2012, 08:15 PM
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Equalizer bar - supposed to be bushingless?

Cleaning up my 4 speed parts for my swap (see here). This setup came from a 79 F350. After serial # BA0,000...

From what I can glean from my parts CD..

I should have Clutch Rod D8TZ - 7521 - A ... 7 21/32" long.. ok

Also Equalizer D8TZ - 7528 - A.. ok.

See picture.. Note green and red circles.

Click the image to open in full size.

Now see my actual pictures. Note the elongated holes where the clutch rod pivot slides into the equalizer bar.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

No bushing? Even if it was "round" and the pivot wasn't worn, it still wouldn't be a tight fit.. I see no bushing listed either in the parts catalog CD. (green circle in picture)

Also.

Click the image to open in full size.

Note the lack of adjuster nuts... Am I missing them, or does the post BA0,000 setup just plain not have them? (red circle in picture)

Help is appreciated, 4 speed friends.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:24 PM
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No bushing that I have ever come across... plus my mostly unmolested 70 doesn't have one.

I suppose you could install one.... I'd prolly use a bronze one like that used on door hinges. Should be about the correct size.

You mean a lock nut? I don't recall. .... I'm at work but I'll take a peek when I get home.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:32 PM
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Oooof. Ford puts bushings in every other location... yet that has free play in it? Odd.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:53 PM
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Like hio said I've never seen a bushing there either but would agree that a door pin bushing would probaly work
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:55 PM
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If you guys think I'm worrying about nothing, let me know, lol.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psquare7575 View Post
If you guys think I'm worrying about nothing, let me know, lol.
A 9.2-mile commute and I'm home now. 'Took a peek under the 73 and neither end (clutch rod and adjustable rod) is bushed. My 70 (currently apart) uses a different style adjustable rod but still does not use a bushing. However, it does use a spring washer btwn the cotter pin and the rod end itself. I guess that keeps it taut against the bar's arm and also prevents the cotter/hair pin from wearing against the arm. Lemme know if ya want a pic.

Since yours is elongated, I would either weld it closed and re-drill it or install a bushing. If ya don't, the pedal will have some slop and elongated hole will continue to wear.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:26 PM
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I may just get another equalizer bar. Both holes are elongated, and the pivot points are worn... I wonder if I could rebuild the pivot points with JB weld... or, if the only difference between the multiple equalizer bars that were offered for these trucks over the years is the hole size on either end... I could redrill a new one. Seems that 'one' is repop'd
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:27 PM
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Well, I called Bronco Graveyard.. And they weren't very helpful. According to them, they sell the same equalizer bar for all the trucks, and never had one come back saying it didn't fit. The guy never even heard of any possible difference.

So.. the million dollar question.

Click the image to open in full size.

What's the interchange difference between D8TZ-7528-A and say, C8, or D7? I can't be the only one to have had this come up.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psquare7575 View Post
Oooof. Ford puts bushings in every other location... yet that has free play in it? Odd.
There's nothing odd about it. There are no bushings used with clutch adjustment rod where it attaches to E-bar.

The reason there is play between the clutch adjustment rod and E-bar is: You're missing the two spring steel wave washers / Post 6: HIO Silver: "spring" washer.

One is located between clutch adjustment rod and E-bar, one is located between E-bar and clevis pin. Once in place, there will be no more free play.

Wave washers were used in this location for decades, but many are missing in today's world.

It's the same old story: People take things apart, don't take pics or record where parts are located, then when reassembling, omit required parts.

Nylon bushings ([2] C1AA-7543-A ALL 1961/79 F100/350-available from Ford) are used on the E-bar where it rides on engine and frame side pivots. There's also two felt washers (358979-S) and C clips (97474-S).

Clutch release rod attaches to clutch pedal bellcrank, then routes thru toe board to E-bar. Has two 90 degree ends with a nylon bushing on each.

Bushings crack apart/disintigrate, 90 degree ends begin to crack, eventually snap off. Not pleasant! Rod snaps, clutch pedal drops to floor, lays there like a drunken sailor.

COAZ-7526-A .. Clutch Release Rod Nylon Bushing-Use with 3/8" I.D. rod / 1961/77 F100/350 & 1966/77 Bronco / 1978 F100/350 & Bronco before serial number BA0,001.

D8TZ-7526-B (replaced D8TZ-7526-A) .. Clutch Release Rod Nylon Bushing-Use with 7/16" I.D. rod / 1978 F100/350 & Bronco from serial number BA0,001, 1979 F100/350 & Bronco.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aftermarket parts sellers (LMC, Bronco Graveyard et al) have no Ford parts catalogs and so have no clue. You have the parts catalog, so you can see the difference.

The reason the E-bars are different has to do with different clutch release & adjustment rods.

D7TZ-7528-A .. Equalizer Bar / 1977 F100/350 / 1978 F100/350 & Bronco before serial number BA0,001.

D8TZ-7528-A .. Equalizer Bar / 1978 F100/350 & Bronco from serial number BA0,001 & 1979 F100/350 & Bronco.

Serial number last 6 digits of VIN
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Old 09-22-2012, 12:00 AM
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My parts truck was post BA0,001.. - 79 F350. With some Google skills I found a clutch release rod, bushings, springs (pedal and clutch), the bushings you listed for me, and even the clutch pedal lever.

So, long story short, if my thinking is correct, the repop E bars are drilled for the 3/8 bushings, and the pivot diameter should be the same. I'd just need to open the hole up slightly for the larger bushing/rod.

For anyone reading this without one already.. If you are on the fence about getting the Master Parts CD, GET IT. The pictures alone make it worth while. Makes research like this possible.

Last question.. The "wave washers". I don't see them listed in the parts listing for this section. Any other information on them?
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Old 09-22-2012, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psquare7575 View Post
My parts truck was post BA0,001.. - 79 F350. With some Google skills I found a clutch release rod, bushings, springs (pedal and clutch), the bushings you listed for me, and even the clutch pedal lever.

So, long story short, if my thinking is correct, the repop E bars are drilled for the 3/8 bushings, and the pivot diameter should be the same. I'd just need to open the hole up slightly for the larger bushing/rod.

Last question.. The "wave washers" (356573-S2 ~ obsolete) I don't see them listed in the parts listing for this section.
The E-bar pivot bushings (C1AA-7543-A) same: 1961/79 F100/350, 1966/79 Bronco & myriad 1961/80 Passenger Cars, available from Ford.

MSRP each: $5.26 // FTE sponsor tousleyfordparts.com price each: $3.48.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
356573-S2 =

FORD OF ENGLEWOOD in Englewood NJ has 42 = 201-569-8116.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 208 = 800-543-4959.
----------------------------------------------------------
I don't know what size the aftermarket E-bar is. The bushing (D8TZ-7526-A note: replaced by D8TZ-7528-B) for the release rod that attaches to it (from BA0,001) is 7/16" I.D.

In the late 1980's, FoMoCo changed the package quantity of a gazillion parts. When the IDIOTS did this, they changed the part numbers suffix, rendering all the previous part numbers obsolete.
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Old 09-22-2012, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psquare7575 View Post
I may just get another equalizer bar. Both holes are elongated, and the pivot points are worn... I wonder if I could rebuild the pivot points with JB weld... or, if the only difference between the multiple equalizer bars that were offered for these trucks over the years is the hole size on either end... I could redrill a new one. Seems that 'one' is repop'd
I just make a new ends for worn out equalizer bars. You can weld the hole up and redrill it but to me it's just as easy to get a new piece of steel, drill the hole, cut it out to the shape, cut the worn end off the bar and weld the new piece on. For the rod I just use hardened all thread and grind a dull point on the end of it.
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Old 09-23-2012, 12:13 AM
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Psquare7575---got your e-mail, but sold my '79 several years ago & all receipts (& part #'s) went with it... But believe I ended up using an earlier Z-bar which was still available at the time & bought the rods & pieces to go with it. Didn't have the wave washers & since there weren't any bushings used, decided to generously lube pivot points with high-performance wheel bearing grease and installed washers ( steel out, nylon in ) on both sides to help retain & protect grease as well as further reduce friction---worked great... Unfortunately, only pics I have are of the badly worn, original Z-bar...

John
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:54 AM
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John, thanks for checking, I really appreciate it.

FWIW, I have on the way, one Z bar from JBG. We'll see what it looks like, and hopefully this post will help others in the future.
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Old 09-30-2012, 05:07 PM
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Ok. Here's the equalizer bar from JBG, as compared to the 78/79 bar.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

#1. Click the image to open in full size.

This hole that connects to the clutch rod will NOT work 'as is' for the 78/79 Clutch rod-bushing set.. The later bar is 7/16" while the earlier is 3/8".. easy to fix with a drill bit.

#2. Click the image to open in full size.

Note the clutch release lever rod pivot, as they are on different sides of the Equalizer bar... I'm guessing that the repop from JBG is correct, as the ford parts catalog picture shows it like that as well, and the clutch forks are engine specific, not year specific, so I'm thinking the OEM piece was put back together incorrectly at one point. Am I right?

It's also not threaded, while the pivot in the oem 78/79 is.. but that's easy to fix as I can use two nuts on either side, per OEM.

the repop fits the pivot bushings quite nicely. I may drill a hole for a grease fitting.
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