About to start throwing $ at the truck again to get it to start. Just to recall, tach bouncing, bats charged, turns over and over with nothing out the pipe. Pulled and cleaned the IPR. Have checked all fuses and unplugged fuel bowl heater. Unplugged my chip. Thinking either bad PCM or IDM. Looking at remaned ones on ebay. What is my best bet bad PCM or IDM?

 

Are you getting a wts light?

 

Have you pullEd the IDM and checked it for water.

If you have a WTS then the PCM is most likely good

 

Did it suddenly get cold and you're injectors don't like the cold weather?

Did it stall, or just not start back up? IDM's fail more often than PCM's. Got any local 7.3 buddies you could borrow from?

 

Like stated above IDM much more likely .....

 

IDK, if the IPR is stuck, would that cause no smoke out the pipe?

 

Yes it will Glenn. Are you SURE the ipr is ok? The cleaning really doesn't do much good.

 

1) Fuel
2) High Pressure Oil
3) Signal to the injectors

Make sure the fuel bowl is full.
Make sure the HPOil reservoir is full.
Use a scanner or mechanical gauge to monitor HPOil pressure and make sure it'll climb to 500 psi or more when cranking.
As long as the HPOil pressure is there then the ICP sensor should read the pressure and tell the computer to fire the injectors.
If you crank for a while then start to hear clicking, the computer/idm are trying to fire but there's an issue with the HPOil system somewhere.

You can try unhooking the glow plugs and spray very small amounts of starting fluid into the turbo while cranking. This will spin the engine over much faster and if it starts you'll know the computers are good and it's something mechanical.

 

Truck hasn't ran since June of last year. When I pulled the IPR I check ALL orings, freedom of motion, don't think its a sticky IPR. No WTS light. No check engine lights.

 

If you have no WTS light, either the pcm isn't working, or the bulb is burnt out.

 

Perhaps the harness connector on the firewall, as well as the idm harness connector . Pins might have some corrosion on them.

 

Well, the WTS light comes on for a split second then turns off.

 

A split second isn't long enough. If it's not staying on for a couple of seconds at least, then that's your problem. Start by removing the chip (key out of ignition first). See if that changes anything. Leave it out while you troubleshoot.

Next unplug the fuel bowl heater to see if that makes a difference. Then leave the key on and have someone watch the dash while you grab and wiggle any wiring harness you can see under the hood. If you can get the WTS light to flash by wiggling a harness, look for a short there.