When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i'm still alive. just been down in the dumps lately. also been fighting a sinus infection. it don't help that i'm also diabetic so the recovery process is slower. i'm getting better.
the vacuum line from inside the cab thru the firewall to the passenger side under the hood has been replaced. i may have to post links to pics later. next up is the vacuum reservoir.
i'm still alive. just been down in the dumps lately. also been fighting a sinus infection. it don't help that i'm also diabetic so the recovery process is slower. i'm getting better.
the vacuum line from inside the cab thru the firewall to the passenger side under the hood has been replaced. i may have to post links to pics later. next up is the vacuum reservoir.
here's more progress. just to recap. i originally started this thread so that it may help the newbies or anyone who may be curious enough to attempt some of the "crazy" stuff i do cos ur bored. lol. for the record, i'm still running head bolts and still going strong. lol.
dunno if i posted this up yet but here's a pic of the LED tail bar tat i replaced cos i wanted LED lights. lol.
then i did the other part of the vacuum hose from inside the cab thru the firewall to under the hood on passenger side. drop the glove box and it makes it easier to perform the task.
then replaced the driver side front sway bar end link just to balance up with the passenger side which was replaced in oct / nov 2013. this is an updated part from Ford. part numbers are in pics.
pic of new end link on. torque to 85 ft lbs, top and bottom. for the bottom torque process, it would help if u held near the top with a crescent wrench / adjustable wrench. feel for it. close to the top, the bar will be a square peg thing. tat way u can put a wrench and hold it down while u torque the bottom nut to 85 ft lbs. another pair of hands also helps a lot. lol.
original end link that came out. as u can see in the pic, the hex nut is supposed to be molded into the bushing. they're one piece. when u buy the sway bar end link, make sure u buy the nut too. they're sold separately. from the looks of the pic, it's good i changed it. it's almost time to change it.
stay tuned. next up is the vacuum reservoir tank. the last thing to change. pretty much change everything already, including HVAC lines just to be triple sure. if this don't solve it, then it's straight to the 4wd lock-out hubs because i only changed the seals and regreased. then it might be possible damaged auto lock-out hub or hubs. either one or two. knowing my luck, it's probably the worst case scenario.
i finally replaced the vacuum reservoir tank. last piece in the jigsaw puzzle. it worked! the switch to 4 hi worked, and 4 low too! a/c blew forward with not even the slightest change. vacuum leak resolved. 4wd is officially back in business!
Eom Thanks for the photos of the tool and parts I got it.
I also got my shopping done.
Same tarp at Cost was only $12 Vs the Hone Depot at $30
Silly pircing.
thanks all! the truck is still shifting into 4wd with the switch so i guess all is still well! lol. anyway, did the transfer case fluid change last night.
as u can see from the fluid dripping out, it's like black coffee. probably never been done before.
Drove for about 10 miles in 4 Hi, then opened up drain and fill plugs. Used Permatex high-temp thread sealant on the plugs after they've been cleaned. Refilled using funnel and hose. 10mm hex socket. Torqued to 20 ft/lbs. Used Valvoline fully-synthetic ATF. No leaks.
Eom Thanks for the photos of the tool and parts I got it.
I also got my shopping done.
Same tarp at Cost was only $12 Vs the Hone Depot at $30
Silly pircing.
Replaced both transfer case relays yesterday. just to be on the safe side. again, my paranoia. lol. have a great sunday, y'all!
next up, dare i say it…… possibly my exhaust project??? at this point, i can only dream it, but i intend to either go with a twin stack kit or build that stack kit from the down pipe and out. if building it, i might go with a 4" kit all the way until the exhaust split in the bed. i might just put a 4" to 5" adapter and go with a 5" split and 5" tubing from there, and finally, a 6" bull hauler stack. 2 please.
any of y'all folks have comments on building the exhaust kit, please feel free to chime in, no matter how detrimental it can get. all comments are welcome. suggestions are welcome too. thanks!
04-24-2015, 02:59 PM
get well Dom , Mis ur post's
