No sir. Just flip them around if it don't light up. So far, no weird operation of my major lights. Everything is working normally. No need to install a load equalizer or anything like tat. I've also started to notice tat I'm seeing my scangauge start to report 13.6 and 13.7 during daytime operation.

Took the opportunity to clean out my batteries last night since I haven't done them in over 2 months. Also, tested my new multimeter tat I got as well. Both motorcraft batteries are still good. 12.78 and 12.71. Unplugged them one by one to test as well as clean. So far so good.

I have to order more LEDs. Lol.

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

here is my latest update.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...5&l=ec32d2dde3

updated the cab lights with LEDs and new cab light covers.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=1bbe2e86c1

another view.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7&l=651d0d5956

finally pulled out the front diff cover, and inner oil seals look good. even the old oil is golden, and 3 quarts came out, so i kinda confirmed that my inner axle oil seals are not leaking. scraped off the old rtv sealant and bolted on the new cover. no need for rtv sealant. the new front diff cover comes with a built-in o-ring. new bolts torqued to 25 ft/lbs. no leaks. it comes with its own drain plug and dipstick.

next project…..hmm……. maybe headlights? lol.

 

Snuggy, check your friends requests on FB, I just sent you one.

 

Same cover as the rear rear? My cover didn't come with a gasket or bolts

 

Nope. My rear diff cover already came with the replacement rear axle, and it was already finned so I don't think I'll be messing with it anytime soon.

Wat kind of cover u got? Lol. Clip-on? Maybe u can post a pic or something?

Dom

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Nope. Ain't seen it yet. If u sent to Snuggyworm Macshaggin, then tats my alter ego. I'm usually on my main Facebook account. Please send request to Dominic Khoo.

I did get a friend request yesterday but it was from a Kevin swan.

Thanks,

Dom

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Usually, the pitman has a keyway so it can only go on one way. The steering wheel usually does not have a keyway. You can adjust the wheel centering by turning the link sleeves equally but pay attention to the direction that you turn them.

 

Yes sir. I adjust it from the drag link and best way to do it is to do KOEO. Tat will engage the power steering pump so when u adjust, it will be more precise.

Dom

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Latest update: it would seem that replacing the front diff cover actually solved my 4wd issue! wow. who woulda thought? right now, it's working like it should. a/c is blowing out the front like it should, i can hear the click noise from outside (with my windows down) when i engage the 4wd switch. i've even driven with 4wd high for about 15 miles straight. it works, and just yesterday, i engaged 4wd low from neutral, and it locked in and she drove just fine. i just drove around the parking lot. phew!

 

next up……getting together parts for a 4" turbo back exhaust system to twin smoke stacks. i've decided to go with MBRP stainless steel. gives me more of a growl. lol. however, i dunno if anyone has a steel smoke stack (aussie style) from 4" inlet to 6" outlet.

 

Good to see your have been working on the truck.


Sean

 

Thanks man. Been busy with work and life. Just trying to stay afloat and keep up with this truck. Lol.

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hi all,

here's more progress. it may help out the new guys who are still trying to figure out the truck.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...1&l=d5b23932ff

up above is the link to a pic showing the part number for the auto-locking hub repair kit. it basically includes new gasket, 2 o-rings, 3 torx screws, and instructions.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...4&l=8d929dc5da

now up here is the spacer off the front wheel for a DRW. if ur an SRW, u won't have this. i had to tear down and replace the front wheel hub and maybe it can help some new folks.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...2&l=1b0524bc7c

as u can see in this above pic, the auto-locking hub is out of the way, and the spacer has been removed. nasty looking hub. disconnect the ABS line and move it out of the way. the front wheel hub is original and it didn't feel right either. there is a very slight play in it.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...3&l=499f786755

in this above pic, u see a 10" snap ring pliers. there is a story behind it. i had bought a $150 set of snap ring pliers from OTC. brand name and i've never had a problem with OTC. 16" jumbo snap ring pliers. woo hoo. turns out the brand name thing was too broad and the set of tips were just regular tips. i couldn't even get close to the eyelets on the snap ring. dammit. nobody else local would also have a jumbo set lying around too. so i got to harbor freight and picked up a $10 set of 10" snap ring pliers. and that did the frigging job!!! how? here's how: the harbor freight set came with extended tips and i measured the length from the tips to the swivel point. not the entire length. it has to be at least 4" from the tips to the swivel point for u to get to the eyelets. it also helps that the 10" pliers are slimmer too. damn thing got it out and the new one in. so now i'm stuck with the expensive fancy tool set. blah.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...4&l=74c6c811f1

original front wheel hub removed. seal still looks good.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...8&l=7fc358fa79

original hub. nasty.

hope this helps.

 

here is my progress so far on the "vacuum leak" issue.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=41bbeac80b

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...9&l=3d7d320459

up above is the vacuum pulse hub solenoid for the newbies.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...6&l=524171c877

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7&l=2a5be2fb62

up above is the vacuum pump.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...5&l=8eef6d22cb

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...7&l=c317e5cd1f

up above is the blend door actuator. for a/c.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...2&l=f10a6619a8

up above is blend door actuator location behind passenger side glove box. it is a tight fit but the "white stick" on the blend door actuator should slide over a hole and as soon as u engage the a/c and seal the cabin, it should pop down into the groove if it don't line up at first. works great.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...5&l=24296f05f1

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...0&l=a48525cb93

up above is the vacuum hose assembly behind the a/c head unit. mine is EATC, so for those of y'all who have the manual a/c controls, the part number is slightly different. i'm determine to replace every single vacuum line. that way, if i get an indication of a vacuum leak again with my auto locking feature for that dang 4wd, it'll be downstairs in the hubs by tat point.

i've also replaced the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs. used ford part. dang it. after i replaced it, i discovered dieselsite sells the braided metal vacuum lines for the auto-locking hubs. damn. oh well, maybe next time.

ordered another vacuum line tat the dealerships in texas do not stock. i got the wrong part. anyway, finally went back to the dealership and my pals found the right part number (supposedly) for my vehicle. so they ordered it and i should get it next week. this vacuum line is the last piece of the vacuum jigsaw puzzle. this piece connects to a part of the multi-colored vacuum hose assembly and passes under the glove box and thru the firewall to the passenger side under the hood. i will continue to post updates. this truck is driving me crazy!

 

hello all,

i'm still alive. just been down in the dumps lately. also been fighting a sinus infection. it don't help that i'm also diabetic so the recovery process is slower. i'm getting better.

the vacuum line from inside the cab thru the firewall to the passenger side under the hood has been replaced. i may have to post links to pics later. next up is the vacuum reservoir.