Need some corroboration here from someone who has put the Chrysler T-bar into a 48-50...I've leveled the truck front to rear and side to side and have watched the video for Volare installation into 53-56 pickups. Here's the rub. The video says starting at the centerline of the original suspension, mark a line starting 1/4 inch above the bottom of the frame and extend it 21 inches toward the front using a level. When you get 21 inches forward, the cut mark should be 1 inch high. Well, on my 48 F-3, when you mark a parrallel line using a level 21 inches forward you are 2 1/2 inches high...not one inch. Is this because the shape of the 48-50 frame is different than the 53-56? Does it dip lower from the centerline forward than a 53-56? If I make the line one inch tall at the front, it will not be level. So, which do I do? I can make the mark level and it will be 2 1/2 inches high at the front, or I can make it one inch high at the front and the mark not be level...

 

The frame is probally alot different since the springs for the 53-56 trucks do not curve as much and they used 15" wheels. So bad I can't help you. I only know stock stuff. You won't have your buddy to help.

 

Vern,
I can't help with your question-but I'm sure someoe else can. I will throw out one additional thing to think about (and maybe 'fenders or John they can answer this). Most IFS swaps that I have read about for the 53-56 F-100 include moving the front axle forward 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches to center the wheel in the fender opening. You might want to find out if the video you have been watching includes this axle movement, and if it is required on your '48.

Good Luck and keep us posted! (pics are always nice and interesting)

 

Vern I haven't done a T bar on an early model but I put one in my 61 and there's no video or templates for that either. The things you have to make sure are right are. 1 Once the notch is made will the upper control arm shafts clear the frame. 2 You will want the upper control arm shafts to slant down towards the rear about 5 degrees, that works out to 1/2"-3/4" lower at the rear when you measure to the center of the control arm shaft against a level. What I would do is support the clip about 2" under the frame with the correct slant and the axle centerline where it needs to go then transfer the contour of the clip to the frame rail (put a mark every inch or two the same distance up from the clip, the lenght of the notch). You'll need the upper control arms off for this. Dont' worry about the notch making the frame weak because it will be filled and boxed with that beefy crossmember. Good luck and hope this helps, Rich.

 

Vern, Rich pretty much summed up the best way to go about it when you don't have the same vehicle as the "video". The only thing I might add is that the reference in the video to these measurements are really only a starting point. You end up cutting and triming more away than the original cut anyway. By starting 1/4" up from the frame at the back you are ensuring that the entire T bar crossmember will contact the frame when welded in. The main thing to be sure about is that the centerline is correct (if lowering the ride height, then move it forward from stock by 1-1 1/2"), the crossmember is postioned equally between the rails side to side and is square to the frame and most important is the rake front to back of the a-arms(about 5 degrees). If the rake isn't right it won't steer/drive right. How much you end up cutting up into the side of the frame will determine how low/high the truck sits when finished. i.e. ride height. Not sure if I've added anything or not but keep us posted!

Good Luck.

Kevin

 

Well, thanks for the info guys. Unfortunately, I'm already aware of all the suggestions posted. I really hoped to hear from someone who had done a 48-50 and actually knew how high the notch ended up in the front. If I end up with a much higher notch than I should have, I can always weld it up, but hoped to have heard from someone who's been there. One other thing I did on mine is remove the front crossmember to make it easier to clean up and notch for the torsion bar adjuster screws. I plan to bolt it back in before I tack the crossmember in. There is no need to adjust the centerline forward an inch in a 48-50 like in the 53-56 as the original suspension was centered already. My guess is that due to the depth of the frame channel and curvature toward the front on my F-3, the 2 1/2 inch measurement at the front is okay as long as I keep the cut level. If I end up with more than 4-5 degrees rake on the upper control arm towers, I can adjust that before final welding.

 

Vern,

Sorry, I know this isn't actual experience but maybe it will help a little. If you have a shop manual it should have the same type of sketch for your frame as is shown in the 1956 illustration below. You can at least compare the dimensions and see if the notch should be a lot deeper on your frame.

 

If you want Vern I can scan the 48-52 frame picture like George posted. My book fell apart from reading it so much! It is now in a binder.

 

great north, checked my manual agains the one of the 53 and up posted.
these frames look very similar..not too many differences shown. the front dip is the same...2 3/4 inches....the length of the springs in the 53 and up are longer 41 inches to 35 3/16 ...looks like they used a longer flatter spring....and the width of the frame...the 48 and up is 32 in the front and 34 in the rear and the 53 and up is 34 all the way.....the rear spring hangers on a f3 are 45 inches and on a f1 they are 44 jeepcat44

 

Earl and Nathan,

Thanks for the frame sketch. I'll study it some and compare the differences.

Jeepcat,

The 32 inches width (outside-to-outside) in the front is definitely going to be a problem. The inside frame measurement is only 27.5 inches and it looks like you need at least 32 inches to clear the torsion bar adjustment screws. On the 53-56s the frame clears the torsion bar adjusters, but on my F-3 it looks like the front part of the original frame is going to sit right on top of them and will therefore also have to be notched for clearance. Also, since the frame channel widens out as you get toward the rear of where the suspension sits, I think some additional cutting will have to be done there on the bottom of the frame rail to narrow it up some especially in the area of the steering box. I'm beginning to think that "THE CUT" is going to be so entirely different from the 53-56, that I may as well forget the cut/notch suggested in the video and figure out my own cut.

 

Vern

You are on the right track. You will definitely have to cut the adjustment holes custom for your 49. You can in fact sink the K-member higher into your frame. Centering in the wheelwells and getting the approximately correct antidive is the issue to focus on. You can sneak up on the final cut. Verify the tilt back with your angle guage as you go. Remove the upper conrol arms to make this possible if you haven't already. My clip is sunk severely deep into my frame due to the fact I had to re-install a previous attempt by a former owner before Paul. Your only real risk is crowding your transmission cover plate if you go to deep. That can be solved if it happens.