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lifting questions?

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Old 09-11-2012, 10:27 PM
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lifting questions?

alright so i've been debating about a suspension or body lift, i know everyone knocks a the body lifts, but they all are used to put bigger tires under the truck. So ive been looking at the rough country 3in body, but my question is would i beable to run 35's with no or minimal problems with rubbing? or would 33's be the max, i know i can run 33's as my 1996 f250 sits right now but im looking for ground clearance so the pumpkins dont hit when i have to run through the feilds at work on a rainy day.
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:34 AM
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You probably fit some skinny 35s on her stock. Think there was an 80s 250 on this forum that was running 35x12.50s without any lift. I would hack the fenders before i put a body lift on.
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:16 AM
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keep in mind too that you've got more to worry about than verticle clearance for big tires - you still need to be able to steer left to right.

Unfortunately, I can't tell you what those limits are - perhaps somebody else here can.

The truck I just bought (88 f150 - small lift) came with 33x12 50's all around - they do lower the turning radius...

The back edge rubs on the inner side.

With a larger tire, that'll only get worse - so keep them skinny.
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by garthneddy
You probably fit some skinny 35s on her stock. Think there was an 80s 250 on this forum that was running 35x12.50s without any lift. I would hack the fenders before i put a body lift on.
Those aren't skinny 35's, 12.50 is the standard width for a 35" tire.
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:20 PM
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If you lift the truck 3", you still won't be able to steer the truck at full lock because the tires will be too wide..HOWEVER, there is good news. You CAN run 35x12.5" tires with rims that have a backspacing of 4" max, and 10" wide. You also NEED to run 16" rims minimum, so don't try to get 15"s because they are cheaper or something. I've never seen somebody with a problem running that exact set up that I said you'd need. The only problem is, the tires will probably stick out of the fender a ways, and some areas require fender flares if that's the case.
Oh, and don't get a body lift, especially if the purpose is to run across rough fields. You're better off with a suspension lift.
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:38 PM
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well the 35's are free and i was going to run 16in rims, i did try 33/12.50 and i didnt have any rubbing issues besides the front bumper which i cut to clear them. im just on a tight budget, tighter than the skin on a bromba bulls nuts so i just wanted a little input, and i dont run through the plowed feilds i run along the harvister when i got to get out there and jump on. other then that since th season has ended its my daylie driver.
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 04:47 PM
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Didnt know there was a set standard for tread width on a 35" tire. Anyways, the point i was trying to get across was that if people have run 35x12.50s without problem then he souldnt worry if he wants to run some 35x10.50s
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 08:55 PM
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i was talking to my friend and his dad earlier, my buddy brought up a good point, he said how many times do you get stuck just on the frame? i know alot of people are all for suspension lifts but why exactly, if a body is done right it looks good in my opinion. and i go play every once in a while but i just want to beable to put the 35's under it so when i get the chance to go play i can
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by GNR22
You also NEED to run 16" rims minimum, so don't try to get 15"s because they are cheaper or something. I've never seen somebody with a problem running that exact set up that I said you'd need.
What is the reason for 16" rims? I have 15x10 black daytona rims with 4" backspacing with 33x12.5's and have zero rubbing from lock to lock.
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:40 PM
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You have an f150 don't you minnesotafisherman?
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:44 PM
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Oops, yeah forgot this discussion is about F250's.
 
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:19 PM
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Haha. I thought that was the mistake there.
 
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