I took a cross country trip California to Florida and some places in between. The only modification to my truck is a Gear Vendors (GV). I only used AC the one leg list below.

The GV gives me a bit over 3 MPG with 3.73 ratio.
I have numbers for each leg of my trip, but I'll list just the wave-tops and my take aways.

* Air Condition uses about 1.5 MPG. (15.8 w/o AC, 14.3 w AC)

* Best MPG 17.1 Rolling hills, no Cruise Control Dallas to Beaumont Tx.

* Biggest surprise 16.8 MPG I-10 West Texas.

Using you Turbo Boost gauge like a fuel flow meter is the key and it will help you gauge your MPG. I typically kept boost 10PSI and 76MPH on a flat road. The lower the boost the better your MPG.

Use Cruise Control sparingly; only when in light traffic and flat roads. Cruise control brings boost to 20 PSI when resuming speed or going uphill until desired speed is achieved. This is a point when manual throttle will helps increase your MPG, by reducing boost.

Another key to good mileage is your driving habits. To help MPG I would use down hill momentum and carry it up hill and allow some speed to bleed off. I was able to get away with the erratic speeds because the roads were empty. My West Tx leg.

I plan on getting a Mini Maxx tuner for an additional 3-4 more MPG.

Finding cheap gas I used gasbuddy.com link on my phone.

Hope this helps, but I'm sure many of you already know this.

 

Excellent summary there!
To add to the list,
- I keep all 4 tires at 75-80psi, not the factory spec of 65 in front and 80 in back. Now that I have adjustable Rancho shocks, I set the fronts to be softer to compensate.
- I throw the tranny into neutral at long stop lights. Idling in neutral burns less fuel than in drive with the foot on the brake
- I shut down regens as soon as it starts if I know I'm stuck in stop-and-go traffic until I can get out on at least a continuous 10-15min stretch of moving traffic. It seems most of the fuel spent during regen is heating the DPF from the low hundred degrees F to 800F before stuff starts burning on its own. The bulk of the burn from what I've monitored starts about 5minutes into regen, then it tapers off after the next 5 minutes assuming EGT's don't cool off. If in slow traffic, it takes a longer time to heat up and accordingly more wasted fuel trying to keep things heated.
- +1 , +2 and +3 on GasBuddy. It rules!

 

How are you able to stop the regens in traffic or at any time for that matter? I seldom see the regen advisory, it's on and off in seconds at highway speeds. I was under the impression it has a lower RPM or temperature limit when it will not regen. It may depend on which the flash.

Good call on tire pressure, I was running 70/80 PSI frt/Rr. I'll bring the front up to 75PSI for my next trip.

Thanks

 

The truck sounds different (more raspy) when in regen, but it's hard to hear over freeway noise and a loud radio. The next give away is lower boost. Mine will zero itself while coasting on freeway. Other than that, the only way to tell is scrolling though the system-info display and wait for the last message.

The most recent flashes only display 'cleaning exhaust' for about 2 seconds and is hard to catch. It will also allow regen to be shut off if the truck is not moving and put into Neutral or Park. Early flashes will regen while racing the engine up at 1200rpm while in Neutral or Park as long as the brake pedal is not touched

Depending on how long regen was running and how much soot was burned before you shut it down (if it got hot enough), sometimes it'll be a couple hundred miles before it'll try to restarting; sometimes it'll start as soon as you start moving again.