I've got some carb parts coming in the mail, but if they don't fix me up,
I may need to hire a pro, if for no other reason than to tell me what my options are if the carb doesn't get it.
I'd like to learn but have never done a leakdown or even a compression test.
I think I may want to line up a rebuilder for February time frame if I don't need those services earlier. If
you have used someone around here that you could recommend I'd like to put them on my list. There is a fellow
in Garland who does machine work on flatheads but I haven't bothered him to see if he'd rebuild one, at least
the short block. I may be a lot of things, but I ain't a machinist and would almost certainly screw something up
with the bearings or clearances if I took on the assembly, no matter how much I'd like to try this.


Best Regards,

Bill

 

What exactly is your motor doing? IE not running starts and dies ?

 

so it starts, but idles rough and there is no power. feels like no advance, but timing light shows plenty of advance. I changed the loadomatic to a delco with mech. advance and that all looks like it works fine. I put the loadomatic back in and timed it, no change. it seemed like a power valve so I have one on the way.
I thought my issues started when I changed the dizzy out but the day I did that, i went to the garden store earlier and bought ten bags of dirt. truck ran like crap on the way home. The 50# bags were soaking wet and probably more like 100# each. anyway, plenty of spark at each plug. one thing i noticed was that disconnecting each plug, only three bogged the engine. the other 5 with the wire disconnected the truck didn't seem to notice. So i';m still hoping it is a carb issue. but with 15# of vacuum and 20,000 since the last rebuild, oh frig man I'm a computer geek. I can think as well as the next fellow, but just don't have any experience in this flathead realm.

Thankls,

Bill

 

Checking compression is easy. Buy a compression tester. They're cheap. Remove the spark plug and screw in the end of the compression tester hose into the spark plug hole. Crank over the engine but don't start it. Watch the needle on the compression gauge top out. Once it stops moving, read the number to get the compression for that cylinder. Repeat the process for all 8. There's also a leakdown tester available.

There are plenty instructions online on how to do both.

 

If several cylinders didn't drop when you pulled the wires one at a time I wonder if you have not firing correctly. Wouldn't hurt to check compression just make sure to disable the coil before you try to check compression don't want the truck to start while trying to get a reading.

 

It sounds like classic symptoms of a bad condenser. Are you 6v or 12v? If 6v I'd bet on it.

Surely an engine rebuilt 20k miles ago doesn't need another.

 

If you can pull 5 plug wires without the engine noticing, which means they aren't firing correctly, then yes your engine will run like crap. Have you changed the plugs lately? Are the plugs clean or fouled? What are the condition of your plug wires? A basic tune up is a good place to start and it won't break the bank.

If you're going to do a compression test, remove all of the plugs and then test the compression on each cylinder spinning the engine the same amount of times for each cylinder. Usually 3 compression strokes is a good number. You want a repeatable test on each cylinder for continuity. Ideally your numbers will be within 10% of each other, high and low.

 

An important point, although in practice it affects all cylinders evenly. BTW, I believe AutoZone loans out compression testers and cylinder leakdown testers

 

I'd replace the coil too. Don't ask me how I know.

 

thanks guys. I've tried some of these ideas and they are all good. been working so many hours that its hard to stay at this
when i get home. I'll try the things here I haven't done.

Thats kind of why I'm looking for a good mechanic. The rebuilder I'd like to line up is for a winter project as I'm
considering turning this into a 276. If I learn something bad about this engine though I'd act on it sooner.


Just want to add I've been working with a really good fellow on this and have done most of these suggestions,
but him being remote, like you folks, it may be something obvious to someone standing right here.
I appreciate all your thoughtfulness and suggestions.
1 new plugs gapped at 30
2. new wires
3. new coil
pulled each plug in turn and got good blue sparks on each

I can get a couple early v8 guys here but I'll try this all again once before i bug em.
Yeah I sure hope to avoid any major engine overhaul. No smoke or anything, just no power.

 

I wouldn't do anything until you run a compression check on the cylinders. If it has cylinders down you can usually hear the difference when you crank the engine with the coil wire disconnected because when it hits a lower compression cylinder it will spin faster.

If the cylinders are not like an earlier post said of around 10% of each other you are spinning your wheels trying to make it run better.

It is going to be valves, piston/rings, block or head gaskets.

Tractorman Bill

 

If you don't have a vacuum gauge I would suggest that you buy one. They are not expensive. Then here is a chart that will help you determine what is wrong. This is old school hi tech.

Let us know what you find.

 

replace the power valve and I am on the way back. I'll be learning the compression and leakdown testing. Is there any easy way to hook up a remote starter button? I found one but have no instructions. That should help me turn the thing over.

Thanks, still looking for a local mech. somehow thru this I developed an oil leak.

Bill