Wow, sorry to do this but,, is there any resolve to this issue/issues??
I have an 2003 SC F150, with these issues and more.
Things that aren't working;
Power Windows
Moon Roof
Interior front roof console courtesy lights
Hazard Flashers
Turn Signals
OBD Port
Radio Back light
A/C Module back light
Door Ajar bell
Brake not engaged safety feature to release shifter lever
Engine compartment Hood Lamp
A/C blower stuck @ high speed
No Power to fuse #19 and #20 in engine bay fuse block. Whether key is ON or OFF or in ACC. Position.
Probably more, I started crying at this point(Close) like an idiot....

Here's what happened, Engine over heated due too a relay on my E-Fan, my trailer was attached at the time the relay died causing it to over heat.
Water did not go in to engine bay at all, I didn't have to rinse anything off either.
Next day the turn signals started to act sporadically. Changed out Relay #4 to no avail.
However the Emergency flashers worked fine.
There was also a power drain of sorts, a slow downward sweep of gauges and dash lights as the E-Fan slowed to a stop. NOT GOOD

Next relay to be replaced was the Flasher Relay next to the A/C blower relay which resides under the dash next to the console.
I pulled both out to determine which was which, upon figuring that out which it was, I replaced the proper one (Blue) in color and reinserted the other to no avail,,, so I thought....
This is when everything went out that is listed so far.,,,

Now all the above is going on. Currently detached the battery and charging it to insure a fully charged battery, in hopes it may have been the cause and to re-set the electronics.....

PLEASE HELP

 

What is the status of the main power fuse(s)?
-- For example check the larger 30-to-60amp fuse(s) feeding main electrical systems (like that of the power distribution box) -What's the status of these?

-- What about any visual evidence of melting or blistering in the alternator's fusible-link section of the alternator's cable run to the battery?

What was the battery charge state (before putting it back on the charger)? Was it exceptionally discharged (below ~10.5V)?

VERY Carefully inspect all accessible under-hood wiring..take your time while doing this, and use a very bright flashlight or other light source to do so. Do you see any visual evidence of possibly overheated or melted wire bundle sections under the hood or in the cab?

"....Water did not go in to engine bay at all, I didn't have to rinse anything off either." -- What exactly do you mean by this?

Tip: Assuming you have the battery totally disconnected (while recharging), you should turn ALL known switches and power controls OFF...and then use a volt/ohm meter (without the battery connected)..and test for any low-ohm dead-shorts between the Battery+ cable and the vehicle's frame ground. If you do find you have a major ground fault there -> then DO NOT reconnect the battery before first isolating and correcting any such ground fault.

 

In answer to your question in regards to no water used, there wasn't a ton of water in the bay thus causing an electrical short in the fuse Panel/Block.
Nor do I have a leaky windshield, zero corrosion on the GEM or the interior fuse panel when I pulled it. I just replaced it with another used one and the same state of NOT WORKING things is still going on!....

 

The on going list of things that aren't working;
Power Windows
Moon Roof
Interior front roof console courtesy lights
Hazard Flashers
Turn Signals
OBD Port
Radio Back light
A/C Module back light
Door Ajar bell
Brake not engaged safety feature to release shifter lever
Engine compartment Hood Lamp
A/C blower stuck @ high speed
No Power to fuse #19 and #20 in engine bay fuse block. Whether key is ON or OFF or in ACC. Position.
Probably more, I started crying at this point(Close) like an idiot....

Engine does run nicely.

These are the mods that have been done to the ride and have been there for some time and without issue.....

Mods to truck many, 2003 Harley Davidson Edition;

Suspension:

Hotchkis TVS, Hotchkis/Billstien Shocks, Hotchkis Sway’s F/R, 58” LFP Traction bars (Chromed), Performance Z Ceramic Brake pads, Develop-Mental Racing Panhard Bar (Chromed), Tires Toyos 295/45/20’s,

Exterior:

Blacked out front and rear Billet Ford ovals, Custom painted Harley emblems sides and rear, J. Jent S.S. Lower grill, S.S. Expedition Antenna, Harley Skull gas cap mod for trailer ball hole cover, A.I.M Industries 3” Cowl Hood Formula One window tint, Chrome/Amber Corner marker bulbs, Bright Box Headlight Kit,

Lightning taillights, Billet Gas door, Harley Davidson skull value stem caps and license plate bolts, Locking Ford Gas Cap, Shaved and Flipped Trailer hitch plug, Lightning L.E.D. Third Brake Light
D-M Racing Suicide (Tilt) Hood, D-M Racing Rear Window Vinyl
D-M Racing Billet Trailer hitch plug, D&S Graphics Third Brake Light Vinyl, Signs Now Rear Window Graphics


Engine Bay:

D-M Racing 30T Cogged upper pulley, 6lb. D-M Racing Cogged Quick Change Lower Pulley, D-M Racing Lipped Idler Tensioner with 90mm pulleys and an additional D-M Racing 90mm Idler pulley, 2 Auxiliary D-M Racing 90mm Pulleys, NGK TR6 Plugs Gapped @.34, SCT X-CAL II, RWTD Tune 15* Timing @ 11.8 A/F, Accu-Fab Single Blade Throttle Body Polished and Ported

Polished and Ported (with the Fin) Stiegemeier Eaton SC Stage 2 also polished on the outside as well, Polished and Ported (Stiegemeier) Stock Plenum, Stock FOMOCO Coils, Siemens Deka 60# Fuel Injectors, Twin Walbro 255LPH Dual Fuel Pumps

LFP E- Fan, LFP H/E Radiator, Gregg Evans (FTVB) Valve Body, Moroso Deep Aluminum Transmission Pan, Derale # DER-13021 Thermostat & Derale # DER-13750 Transmission Cooler, B&M Remote Transmission Filter, D-M Racing Aero Quip Trans Line Kit, 170* Thermostat, K&N Filter With Filter Sock, Polished & Ported C&L Intake Tube
Cannon Performance Full Stainless Steel Exhaust System 1 ¾ Primaries, 3” Random Technologies H/F Metal Matrix Cats, 3” Tubing, Dual 3” In / Out X - Flow Muffler all 304 Stainless Steel, Lightning exit
High performance EM Grounding Wire Kit and EM Positive Wiring kit, D-M Racing EGR #1 Delete Kit, New Bosh A/F Sensors front and rears 10/29/07, D-M Racing Oil Separator, Fumoto Oil Drain Value, Optima Yellow Top battery, Gates Cog & Gatorback Acc. belts, Diablo MAFi.a. Extender Set @ #2, A.T.E. Super Blue Racing Brake Fluid, Pi-Thon Hose Clamps, D-M Racing Cool Flow Block Cooler, Aluminum Navigator High Flow Water Pump

Chromed Accessories:

Hurst Line Lock with D-M Racing Polished Line–Lock Bracket
Under-Hood Stainless Steel Radiator/Air Shroud, HD Bolt Cover A/C Charge Cover, D-M Racing W.O.T. Bracket , D-M Racing Oil Sep. Bracket

Throttle linkage bracket, power steering brackets, EGR Module bracket, Intercooler tubes, Chromed stock Idler bracket, Jack Crank Rod and Radiator hose/Alternator bracket, Eddie Marines Billet battery hold down with Custom Harley Gel Overlay,
Billet fuse box cover, Door strikers, Pi-Thon Hose Clamps, Various Chicken Ears Billet pieces, Oil filler Cap, EVAP cover, EGR Cover, Boost by-Pass Cover,, D-M Racing Cool-Flow Brackets, Billet fuse Box Cover, Billet EGR Cover, Billet Hood Adjuster Cover, D-M Racing
Maf i.a. Mounting Bracket, BBK Chromed Billet Valve Covers

Interior:

Gel overlays on both lumbar ***** and Steering wheel oval, Three pod A-Pillar Pod with Auto Meter Ultra Lite Series – Boost / Vacuum Gauge, Transmission Temperature Gauge, Auto Meter Fuel Pressure Gauge,
Auto Meter Steering Column Pod Customized by D-M Racing to a Dual Pod,

Auto Meter D- PIC Gauge, Autometer Water Temperature Gauge, MM-Custom Works Dual Pod Surfboard, Dual Innovate LC-1 Wideband A/F Gauges, 2002 Harley Davidson Embroidered floor mats, Billet Develop-Mental Racing Door Sills Plates, Harley Shock Cap Covers on Headliner Buttons

Sound System:
JL Audio Mono Block Amp 250/1, Infinity Reference speakers Front and Rear, JL Audio Sub Woofer, Stock Head Unit

 

Items/Things checked;

Just replaced my GEM BCM whatever anyone wants to call it.. with a used one,,,, Guess what same problem, how did you guess.
Checked and even replaced every fuse pertaining to the GEM Module,, Still the same.
Every Fuse checked
Most relays replaced or checked
Battery was and is fully charged.... Currently disconnected.
Discovered no power to fuses #19 or #20 located in EB fuse panel.

 

My book says fuses 19 and 20 in the underhood fuse box are for the trailer/camper plug at the rear bumper, specifically the left/brake and right/brake turn signals. Is that what your owners manual says?

 

Yes, they are both dead thou, whether the keys on or off.

 

"...Probably more, I started crying at this point(Close) like an idiot.... "

nawww... I don't think so.

Well... from the mods you listed.. I'd say *most* of 'em (though impressive..in my book).. still don't pertain to the problem at hand.

But you can be sure that if you've garnered the attention of Dave (Franklin2) [i'm suck'n up here of course Dave ].... then you're in very good hands..to be sure!.

This is a trouble-shoot exercise for folks with somewhat bigger Cajones!

All I can do is backup the existing OIC (officer in charge)... and fill in the blanks with misc. riff-raff addendum.

You say the "..truck runs fine!"..... hmmm.. but no gotta' all the other accessory workings goin' on (?)... hmmm.....

PCM's gotta' be working ok.. i'm guessing.

-- I'd look for problems related to the inputs/outputs associated with the cab's fusebox panel (just a wild a** guess)! -- ??

For example: For all of the non-working (interior cab electrical functions) fuse slots... do you have *input-side* power showing? -- and thereafter... do you see appropriate *output-side* voltages showing at those very same fuse slots???

...just a thought..

dave r.

 

As for the first statement/guess correct as to date the mods were/are all given a great bit of care and expertise.

The only one that has had problems and helped cause this one/issue "I believe would be the E-Fan, It has a habit of cooking a relay once a year..
The one before this one was a duozie,, melting down the high speed relay in two leg locations, prompting a total replacement of the modules base with a new one.

This time it did the same to the E-Fans low speed relays base by melting ( non-catastrophic ) a leg of the plastic base which in turn caused the truck to overheat with my trailer attached at the time.
This in turn prompted me to straight wire that relay to a fuse that is an accessory based fuse, which I piggy backed off of.... Omitting the relay and just using the hot wire feed to the fan from that circuit as a non-switchable hot (Accessory on with key) to control the low end of the E-Fans operational capabilities.

Which in turn drew too much power from the fuse we piggy backed off of #18, causing/creating the power draw which I believe to be the start to all of this crap i am now drowning in.....

By power draw I mean, When I turned off the truck,,, E-Fan on/in a accessory mode/fuse.
There would be several things happening, odometer lights and gauges that would sweep downward as the fan slowly stopped. They would sweep/dim at the same rate as the fan's RPM's gradually slowed to a stop.

I noticed this twice and yanked the wire, re-routed it to a straight 12V in the fuse panel under the hood to location #302 which is a constant hot. Controlling the fan at this point via a switch with a in line 30amp fuse. The fuses rating has now been reduced to a lesser ratting of 20amp.

All this happened upon/within the same day. In compilation with the removal and replacement of the A/C relay...
Now the fan power is a direct run from the battery with an inline 30Amp fuse in place.
Yes, fuse locations #18 and #302 are right next to each other in the EB fuse panel, coincidence,, I am thinking so....
All of this is over a two day span.

So,, Brief recap,,,, !!!!!!! WAKE UP!!!!!!!!

Truck over heats do to failure of the E-Fan low speed relay.
Low speed relay gets omitted, new power source for the low speed of the E-Fan gets bumped off of fuse #18.

Turn signals become intermittent, yet E-Flashers still work.
Dash Lights and Gauges start the power drawn sweep.

Replaced all relays that pertain to turn signals, last one being the one that resides next to the A/C relay under the dash next too floor console.
A/C relay was removed and replaced with the same relay and then later on also with a new one.
I have checked all fuses that can be checked visually, I have checked the circuit breaker #601, replaced all fuses pertaining to the GEM/BCM module.
The next search bases will be fuseable links, hidden circuit breakers or relays, melt downs in the wiring loom, etc..................

I would like a wiring diagram / schematics of these circuits if anyone has access to one.
2003 F150 Supercrew Harley Davidson

That is where everything went wrong.

GEM/BCM module was/is replaced with a used one, yes, numbers matching, however two years older then the truck.
No corrosion found on either unit. No my windshield doesn't leak.
Truck is a garage queen/multiple show winner.
You guessed it,,,, same problem.
$52 less in my pocket was/is the only difference....

List of new/same idiosyncrasies....

High speed blower for the A/C unit operates at high speed no matter what.
No back lighting to A/C control Module.
No back lighting to Radio Module.
No roof console courtesy lamps.
No wipers.
No power windows.
Moon Roof inoperable.
Not able to disengage transmission from park.
No under hood engine bay courtesy lamp.
No turn signals.
No emergency flashers.
No wipers.
No power to fuses #18 and #19.



Too any that have and or are willing to stick there hands into this whirlwind/blender/garbage disposer,,, Thanks ....

 

I was going to ask if you are comfortable with reading diagrams. They have some that are pretty good over at Autozone's site. You have to register, then plug in your truck, and then click on "vehicle repair guides". You will then see "wiring diagrams". Just be careful when you are looking at the diagrams, they throw the f150 and the Superduty diagrams in together, and they are wired differently in certain places. So look through all the diagrams and when you open them up, look at the margins at the top and it will usually say "Superduty/Excursion" or "f150".

To elaborate on fuse 19 and 20; You will not have power there, unless you signals are on. And when you do have power, it will be the flashing power, not constant. The diagrams will show you this.

I would check power to everything, looking at the power distribution diagrams. I would try to turn something on that doesn't work, and then measure the voltage with a meter. If you have a poor connection somewhere, it will not show itself with a digital voltmeter, that's not enough load. You need to load the circuit down and then check it.

If you find you have power everywhere, I would check your grounds. It's not uncommon to overload a part of the circuit, and the ground gets melted. And example of this would be the smaller ground that is usually bolted to the engine block and then runs up to the firewall, usually at the rear bellhousing area. If you suspect it may be a grounding issue, it may be easier to run a new ground wire from the engine block to the cab sheetmetal.

 

Getting ready for battle now, most of the grounding won't be an issue. I had/have installed a new EM Grounding set up that covers at least 8 points, it is some mighty fine wire at least 8mm thick. However there are the small ones lurking around that scare me,,, how many and where.
I will try your suggestion out, once again thanks for now..



Today's agenda is/will be pulling the engine bay fuse panel so I can view the underside as to ascertain any and or all the possible carnage this may have caused. Hopefully minor if at all.?.?

Are there any hidden circuit breakers or fuseable links that would/may provide power to this many functions???

Would the A/C's low speed resistor/relay being shorted /grounded out have caused or causing this/these issues????
If so where might it be hiding away???
Because, short of my piggy backing the fuse #18 and starting the whole power sweep/draw problem. Weakening said area,,,,
All this crashed when I removed/pried out the A/C relay that resides next the the turn signal flasher relay.... possibly crossing two legs and causing it too short out.???
I didn't see nor hear or even blow a fuse in the process,,,, however Murphy's law being what it is!!!!

 

The diagrams will tell you that. Look at your problem list, find the object that is not working(like the park interlock) and find it in the diagrams. Once you know what should have power, you can check and see if you have it. Then just keep working your way back. I would try and troubleshoot things that are easy to get to. You may find something common to all. I know a lot of them are powered by the accessory delay relay.

 

Well that is all fine and dandy under there, at least there isn't any signs of a melt down what soever.
Tightened up the loom blocks to the firewall and I guess i will re-tape it all up and let her hang loose for now. Time to move to the rest, sob, sob,,,,,,

Now as far as Relay #110,the accessory delay relay, in the owners manuel it states not used on supercrew??
Although my does have a fuse in that particular location on my SC, read one thing, see another, isn't FOMOCO grand...

Swapped it out for another 30amp. and also jumpered CB #601 still nothing. I am wondering should I reconnect the old GEM before proceeding any further, considering that there was no change in anything between the two. Just in case it was something simple and this one isn't the original and or fried??

 

O.K., could it be this simple,

| Repair Guides | Module Communications Network (2003) | Module Communications Network (2003) | AutoZone.com

F1.103 & F2.3 on diagram one, F1 is a 50amp & F2 is a 20amp, Relay?? Fuse??
It seems that this path leading downward thru there files,, seems to be powering most everything that is haywire or not working or could be affected by or am I looking at his wrong.
Where would they be located, I just have a sinking feeling it is something this stupid... Just saying..

 

Sorry had to take a break, I needed to fix the Dryer, Apply a coat of Tru Oil to a Guitar neck I'm building out for a client and shoot myself in the foot.
Did I mention I'm currently unemployed, love dogs and am a Virgo..... Sorry just a little frustrated with this search of all search's....