Hopefully this can help others fix the same issue themselves. Its not that hard. Took me about an hr, and that was while baby sitting my 5 year old as she played in and out of the truck.
A couple months ago I put down the passenger window and heard this horrible crunching sound. And the window stopped. I could still here the motor. I put it up by hand but it would fall while driving. I played with the switch and managed to get it to go up and left it there till I could get the time to fix it.
I got the new regulator from Autozone, approx $150, does not come with a new motor.
I have the factory service manuals so I did my homework and attacked it yesterday.
To remove the door panel
Remove the screw cover by the door handle with a small screw driver/hook
Remove the screw
Remove the door handle cover, it just pops out.
In the door pull, there are 2 screws down in there, pop the cover with a small hook, and remove the screws
On the side of the door panel (rear edge above the latch assembly), there is a small round cover with a screw inside, remove that too.
Remove the two screws on the bottom of the door panel.
Pry out on the top point (where the small speaker is) to disengage the clip, then the door panel should lift straight up and then off the door. It hooks on. Don’t force anything. Gently work it and it will come off.
Unplug the wiring for the tweeter, door locks and windows
You’re now looking at the door with no panel
Remove the speaker, disconnect the wiring
Take your time and pry off the weather shield, pull by the glue, not the shield and it should stick back on
Remove the door pull mount
Remove the door handle
Gently pry up where the top pin is engaged, and rotate the handle down and out
Disconnect the cable
Now is when you unbolt the glass from the regulator
Go back to your door panel and remove the power window switch. There are 4 hooks holding it in. Disengage each hook while putting pressure on the switch to push it into the door panel. Once all 4 teeth are unhooked it will pop out.
Hook up the power window switch. Key in Acc position.
Lower the window about 6” so you can see both clamp bolts on the tracks.
Loose the bolts (don’t remove) When the bolt is loose you can push on the bolt to work the clamp loose
Once the window is free, push it up so its closed. I used some 2” painters tape to keep it closed.
Now’s a good time to disconnect the battery.
Remove the rest of the wiring including the power window motor and side air back sensor.
Work on the bolts in this order
Remove the yellow numbered bolts
Loosen the red numbered bolts
(Ford calls the red numbered bolts – hanger bolts
They are able to come though a larger hole and slide into a slot to hold the regulator in place while you are installing the rest of the bolts.)
The regulator should be loose now. I found it easiest to move it down into the door, then towards the rear. Then rotate the front of the regulator up and out.
You now have an empty door
Put the regulators side by side and move over any clips, the air bag sensor and the power window motor. Tracks are greasy so don’t make a mess or drop it.
Connect the battery
Basically reverse all the instructions.
Put the window switch back in the door panel
Put the new regulator in the door and mount it on the hanger bolts
Secure the remaining bolts
Take the tape off the window, and let it down into the clamps
Tighten the clamps
Connect the wiring (power window and air bag)
Put the door latch back on
Install the weather shield
Door pull mount
And the door panel (don’t forget to put the power window switch back in first)
This new regulator works much faster than before. I should have known something was wrong or about to break.
I went ahead and took off the driver’s door panel too, as that window seemed to be slow.
The regulator tracks were dry! I added some grease as best I could and sprayed some lube on the cable as I cycled the window a couple times (there’s a opening near the power window motor where you can see the cable moving)
Now it too moves much faster!
NOTE: If you’re doing the drivers door with the auto switch (or either passenger or drivers on a navigator) the manual mentions an initialization procedure. I guess so the motor knows what’s up and what’s down. I don’t know what this procedure is, I assume its something a dealer needs to do.