Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Small Chassis Trucks > Ranger & B-Series
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series modelsSPONSORED BY:

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2012, 09:40 PM
jaxboy jaxboy is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
jaxboy is starting off with a positive reputation.
B3000 will only start with solenoid jumped

My B3000 ran beautifully until I changed the water pump. Now I can only crank it by jumping the solenoid. After that, it runs fine, and everything works. There is power at fuse #24 inside the truck when I turn the key to "crank", but no power at the push-on terminal at the solenoid. There is no alarm system. The only wires that were disturbed when I replaced the water pump were the ground terminal at the battery and the wires in front of the water pump, which have all been reconnected. The battery has a full charge, and the terminals are clean and tight. The fuses in the fuse box in the engine compartment are all good, and I cleaned their terminals. I wiggled the gear shifter in park and neutral while turning the key.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 07:22 AM
tomw tomw is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,048
tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.
Is there power at #24 when the key is NOT in the crank position? I'd expect there is. To search the trouble, you have to trace the circuit to see where you lose power.
The neutral safety switch will interrupt the power, and may have failed completely. You can try the 'sweep' test, where you sweep from P to L with the key in the start position. If it cranks then, I'd look at the switch more closely. If not, you can only trace back to the ignition switch to see if power gets out to the safety switch.
You may need an ignition switch or neutral safety switch. The other option is pinched or cut wires leading to the relay. Corrosion can cause problems too. Get the color code on the solenoid and check that color wire on the safety to perform a continuity test of that wire if you get that far.
Water pump must have been coincidence unless you jacked it up and moved or damaged something.
tom
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 11:48 AM
jaxboy jaxboy is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
jaxboy is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ok, I just did some more checks. The fuse only has power when I turn the key to "crank". I switched relay 6 with another relay. I swept from P to L with the key turned. Nothing. Now what?
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 12:31 PM
f5fordgirl f5fordgirl is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 457
f5fordgirl is starting off with a positive reputation.
You say the problem started after you changed the water pump, and had to move some wires to do that. Start at that location, check the wires you moved, make sure you didn't pinch one, and if they weren't all in one connection, make sure they are connected right.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 12:55 PM
smokenchoken's Avatar
smokenchoken smokenchoken is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: peru kansas
Posts: 1,366
smokenchoken is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.smokenchoken is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Eli Hopkins
.

solenoid might just be bad it happens sometimes and they are cheap and easy to replace
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 09-03-2012, 12:56 PM
jaxboy jaxboy is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
jaxboy is starting off with a positive reputation.
I rechecked all the wires I had disconnected. They were in a cable separate from the ignition wire. There is power at the fuse after the switch. I switched out the relay. I don't believe there is power to the relay, as I didn't hear it click when the switch was turned. There is no alarm system, so there is supposed to be a straight shot from the fuse to the gear selector switch to the relay. I can't get to the gear selector switch in the steering column, but sweeping the gear selector from P to L with the key turned did nothing. There is no power at the push-on terminal of the solenoid when the key is turned.
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:58 AM
tomw tomw is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,048
tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.
If you apply power to the small terminal on the relay, does it engage and power the starter? If so, your relay is working, and you have a wire or neutral safety switch problem.
I have jumped from the large + terminal on the relay to the small terminal using a screwdriver in the past to test, or to bump the crankshaft while setting ignition timing.
Do that, and report back...

FWIW, most lever position switches are/were mounted further down the steering column so that they were relatively easy to access.
tom
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 08:07 AM
jaxboy jaxboy is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
jaxboy is starting off with a positive reputation.
I'm sorry. I forgot to say that I had tried that. It cranks when I touch the small terminal with power. Where is the neutral safety switch located?
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 08:36 AM
tomw tomw is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,048
tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.
Where is the neutral safety switch located?

As noted:
FWIW, most lever position switches are/were mounted further down the steering column so that they were relatively easy to access.

The neutral safety switch is used to determine the position of the transmission gear select lever. It is to prevent starting the engine with the car in gear. It is also called the MLPS, or Manual Lever Position Sensor, depending on who wrote the book and more likely when. Older name was neutral safety, newer name as noted because it also tells the transmission computer if you are using OD, locking the gears in 1 or 2, or ??? you pick it... What year is your truck?
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 08:39 AM
jaxboy jaxboy is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
jaxboy is starting off with a positive reputation.
1996 Mazda B3000
Reply With Quote
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-04-2012, 08:57 AM
jaxboy jaxboy is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 6
jaxboy is starting off with a positive reputation.
The neutral switch is called the Digital Transmission Range sensor, and is located on the left side of the transmission at the shift lever. I just looked under the truck, and could only see one connector, the 16 pin one. I didn't see any loose cables.
Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2012, 08:57 AM
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Small Chassis Trucks > Ranger & B-Series

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1997 Ranger not starting - No sound Mikulus Ranger & B-Series 12 06-26-2014 07:02 AM
1989 7.3 Starter Solenoid / Ignition switch?? Littlecocheese Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) 4 02-02-2014 11:44 AM
Solenoid "I" terminals Rimrock F1 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 0 11-20-2013 11:22 AM
Starter Problems TXCITYDPS 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 7 02-01-2013 05:40 AM
86 f250 glow plug dillema Eallend7 Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) 4 12-23-2012 09:28 PM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup