2004 F-250 5.4L Oil Pan Gasket Leak
#1
2004 F-250 5.4L Oil Pan Gasket Leak
Hi I have an '04 F-250 Super Duty with the 5.4 and I'm having an issue. I noticed a leak so I climbed under my truck and find the oil pan is leaking around the gasket (best I can tell). I took off the inspection plate and the flywheel is dry as a bone so I don't think it's a rear main seal (but feel free to correct me). Problem is I can;t see how to change it without pulling the motor. I've seen a few threads but no definete yes or no's on pulling the motor. I really don't wanna pull the motor if possible so any ideas are greatly appreciated. Also is this common? The truck only has 72xxx miles.
#2
#4
2004 F-250 4x4 oil pan from hell
This post is a bit old but I just got done with removing the oil pan on 2004 f-250 crew cab 4x4 5.4L Automatic what a nightmare....
found a video on youtube showing the procedure on a 2006 just wasn't quite the same on this 2004.
TOP SIDE:
1. Remove air cleaner from housing and Throttle Body (8mm) pull IAC tube and EVAP? tube as well
2. Remove throttle body and throttle cable plate (6 bolts 8mm and 10mm), slide assembly towards front of engine 4-6" you shouldn't have to remove any lines here, place rag over opening.
It might also be a good idea to remove cable channel across the cowl while you are here but not strictly necessary just helped me to see what I was doing.
3. Remove two bolts from radiator fan shroud at least the front two bolts from overflow container, the rear one just needs loosened so you can rotate the container slightly(8mm).
BOTTOM SIDE:
4. Remove bracket holding trans lines (and I believe starter wires) or at least remove the lines from it, tie these towards the passenger side.
5. Loosen all bolts you can get to on oil pan now leave the 6 in the cross member area for later, the front 4 and back 4 should be housed within the block so shouldn't be a big deal to remove. All others soak top side in penetrating oil a day ahead of time ALL ARE THE SAME LENGTH BTW (13mm). (Ford# W701605-S437)
5. Reach up and disconnect O2 sensors from block (green connectors press tab and pull apart) tuck them out of the way for now.
6. Remove motor mount bolts 4 total 2 each side (21mm) These were not too bad but I hit them with the torch and penetrant anyway.
7. Remove 2 transmission mount bolts at rear cross member (21mm)
8. Remove Transmission access plate 2 bolts (13mm) you will need this extra room
(This may be controversial but was ABSOLUTELY necessary for me)
10. In the center of the transmission bell housing 3" from each side of center use a file or a grinder and place a small bevel on the very bottom of the bell housing (edge closest to the ground) ~1/8" is all you should need this is the spot that I just couldn't get past during removal.
11. Remove 4 header to exhaust flange nuts (2 of these each side) use a torch to get them cherry red then break loose re-tighten and loosen 10x and soak liberally with penetrant before you try to remove them.
12. Raise engine and place a 2x4 between each motor mount and frame drivers side goes in from front and passenger from rear. WATCH OUT as this is a pinch point, lower engine back onto 2x4s and check that it is secure before you continue.
13. Remove oil filter and drain oil from pan. I removed the oil cooler but it should be possible to leave it on.
14. Remove the rest of the oil pan bolts. These were a pain even with soaking them a day before, I ended up using the torch to heat the block and soaking them even more before they came out without feeling like they would shear off. I would recommend using a hand ratchet to get these out, they stick up 1/4" past the rim of the mating surface and these were very corroded and of course were right over the cross-member; A broken bolt here sounds like engine removal time to me.
15. Release pan and drop it, slide towards drivers side and remove two bolts holding pickup to oil pump (8mm). From rear of pan slide towards passenger side and remove (10mm) bolt holding the pickup tube to block, a mirror and flashlight are your friend..
16. Remove exhaust-Y from headers now if you didn't already.
17. Raise transmission till bolts in mount are just about to pull out of the rear cross-member.
18. Remove pan and hope you put that bevel on there otherwise put pan back and put bevel in now.
19. Beer..
found a video on youtube showing the procedure on a 2006 just wasn't quite the same on this 2004.
TOP SIDE:
1. Remove air cleaner from housing and Throttle Body (8mm) pull IAC tube and EVAP? tube as well
2. Remove throttle body and throttle cable plate (6 bolts 8mm and 10mm), slide assembly towards front of engine 4-6" you shouldn't have to remove any lines here, place rag over opening.
It might also be a good idea to remove cable channel across the cowl while you are here but not strictly necessary just helped me to see what I was doing.
3. Remove two bolts from radiator fan shroud at least the front two bolts from overflow container, the rear one just needs loosened so you can rotate the container slightly(8mm).
BOTTOM SIDE:
4. Remove bracket holding trans lines (and I believe starter wires) or at least remove the lines from it, tie these towards the passenger side.
5. Loosen all bolts you can get to on oil pan now leave the 6 in the cross member area for later, the front 4 and back 4 should be housed within the block so shouldn't be a big deal to remove. All others soak top side in penetrating oil a day ahead of time ALL ARE THE SAME LENGTH BTW (13mm). (Ford# W701605-S437)
5. Reach up and disconnect O2 sensors from block (green connectors press tab and pull apart) tuck them out of the way for now.
6. Remove motor mount bolts 4 total 2 each side (21mm) These were not too bad but I hit them with the torch and penetrant anyway.
7. Remove 2 transmission mount bolts at rear cross member (21mm)
8. Remove Transmission access plate 2 bolts (13mm) you will need this extra room
(This may be controversial but was ABSOLUTELY necessary for me)
10. In the center of the transmission bell housing 3" from each side of center use a file or a grinder and place a small bevel on the very bottom of the bell housing (edge closest to the ground) ~1/8" is all you should need this is the spot that I just couldn't get past during removal.
11. Remove 4 header to exhaust flange nuts (2 of these each side) use a torch to get them cherry red then break loose re-tighten and loosen 10x and soak liberally with penetrant before you try to remove them.
12. Raise engine and place a 2x4 between each motor mount and frame drivers side goes in from front and passenger from rear. WATCH OUT as this is a pinch point, lower engine back onto 2x4s and check that it is secure before you continue.
13. Remove oil filter and drain oil from pan. I removed the oil cooler but it should be possible to leave it on.
14. Remove the rest of the oil pan bolts. These were a pain even with soaking them a day before, I ended up using the torch to heat the block and soaking them even more before they came out without feeling like they would shear off. I would recommend using a hand ratchet to get these out, they stick up 1/4" past the rim of the mating surface and these were very corroded and of course were right over the cross-member; A broken bolt here sounds like engine removal time to me.
15. Release pan and drop it, slide towards drivers side and remove two bolts holding pickup to oil pump (8mm). From rear of pan slide towards passenger side and remove (10mm) bolt holding the pickup tube to block, a mirror and flashlight are your friend..
16. Remove exhaust-Y from headers now if you didn't already.
17. Raise transmission till bolts in mount are just about to pull out of the rear cross-member.
18. Remove pan and hope you put that bevel on there otherwise put pan back and put bevel in now.
19. Beer..
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