I have posted elsewhere on the forum that I had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.

I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)

I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.

This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.

And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.

Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.

Please see pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.

What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover?

If so, what should I look for, etc.?

Thanks for your help in advance.

2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)

 

I would finish doing the fuel tank mods then do some injector testing and data logging with a AE. You could pull the VCs and make sure the connection are good and tight. Do the .50 mod while you are in there.

 

White smoke typically is from raw fuel. There are only two ways for raw fuel to get into the combustion track...

Broken nozzle, or bad injector O rings/Coppers...

You need to stop driving it until such time as you can figure out what side is giving you hell, I would suspect the drivers side from your post, and pull all the injectors from that side. Inspect the nozzles for any cracks or damage with the eye and install new O-rings and coppers.

Reinstall and see if your issue goes away.

 

I suck at mechanicin', but I understand the systems. Joe said it before I got here. You have a good filter before the crud from your tank reaches the injectors (if it's not blown out from clogging or doesn't have a good seal), but that doesn't solve air from pump cavitation or air intrusion. Take a bunch of air and fill the fuel reservoir of the injector with it - then slam the back side of the plunger with 2800 PSI of oil and the fuel side of the plunger will crash its face into the nozzle. You may have an injector issue on the side where your leak is.

I wouldn't drive it until the mystery is solved and I had total faith the fuel delivery is solid.

 

Guys: I haven't and won't drive it until the problems are fixed. I haven't even started it in two weeks. I will report back when I see what's under the driver's side valve cover.

Joe: Any links to a good explanation/pictures of the .50 mod?

Tugly: Your thread(s) on the fuel pump pre-filter mod was very helpful. Very nice frame. I am now trying to see if I can just use (stainless steel) compression fittings in place of the quick disconnect on the fuel tank line-out (remove the o ring air intrusion possibility) and then keep the hard fuel line to the new frame mounted pre-filter (HF tube bender and more stainless compression fittings or possibly the fittings which come with the Racor PS120 - I haven't received it yet). If it works, I will try to upload pictures or stick them in an album.

And yes, I will likely complete the fuel tank and pre-filter installation before I remove the valve cover.

I would be very happy to fix this problem with just new o rings on the driver's side. Then get some of those gauges Joe has, and an AE and start looking at the vehicle from the ground up. The more I look at the 7.3, the more I like it - slow (like me) and strong (like I used to be).

Thanks guys.

 

Slow? Just wait until you get it fixed and start thinking about chipping. The 7.3L has been neutered so that Grandma, soccer mom, teen terror, and testostodude can do anything to the pedal on the right and not hurt the engine. Get some knowledge, kick it with a proper tune, slap some gauges on, and jam air up its nose... great gobs-o-air. It's a caged beast waiting to raise hell and put a chunk of road under it.

 

google's your friend
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-cent-mod.html

 

You can go quickie, proper, or ultra-deluxe... but deluxe is a lot of work/expense and you have a ways to go if you're going continue on with PMS. I've been pacing myself and it's been a full year of this. Just sayin'

 

Tim,

I will be in sacramento with the next couple of weeks. If you are still suffering problems feel free to drop me a PM and I'll swing by and check it out.

 

Based on your pic, I would tend to agree with Rick and Joe, Your pic looks pretty fresh, and it could be from the sources mentioned. If you would like to investigate further consider a compression test as well. Also check for play in the turbo. It never hurts to know where you stand before spending more money on a broken motor.

BTW, so others can see it, here's your pic.

 

Thanks to all. I will keep this posted as I slowly move forward. 2000ca250 I appreciate the offer and if it makes sense and doesn't put you out too much I may take you up on it. But again I am moving slowly so let's see what I find once I get under the driver's side valve cover.

 

Well I will be in tahoe next week, but the weekend following (8th and 9th) I will be in sacramento and free. Should be there until the following tuesday. I am more than available to swing by and take a look at it. I have AE, and some decent knowledge with a better support system. I could easily swing by for a few and check it out.

 

We are in Tahoe for part of this weekend. But I will be in Sacto the entire next week. And quite frankly I don't have time to disassemble the valve cover this weekend, so maybe you could swing by with your AE and we could hook it up and run it for a bit to get some readings so I have a little more info before I take the valve cover off. I will PM you my telephone number. Thanks again for your and every body's support.

 

If you are looking at time. It takes about 20 minutes to remove the drivers side turbo inlet piping and the intercooler pipe.Errrrr. Wait a minute. You might not even have a intercooler on your van. From there it is maybe another 20-30 minutes to get the valve cover off......tops. you will need a short 13mm socket with a short wobble or flexible extension to get the back bolt off......Er.....wait a minute. You have a van and you can take the center console out and get to that bolt very easy. Man I wish I had that big hole in my firewall. All in all it is not that much effort to get the drivers side valve cover off to ensure your Under Valve Cover Harness is plugged in and to put a Quarter with it cut off about where the top of the head is (buzz cut the quarter right at the top of the head) and slide it in with the flat side up toward the valve cover. This will force the plastic clips to stay in position and not allow the Under Valve Cover Harness to come unplugged ever again unless you take the quarter out. It is just a little bit of work to get the valve covers off. The passenger side has the heater lines in the way but they can just be bungee corded back and about 20-30 minutes later if you are working really slow and without air tools you can get that cover off also. Put a wrench in your hand, get a small work light and see what is under the valve covers.
Dwayne

 

2001 F350 7.3L Turbo Diesel, UVCH - YouTube
You tube video on the 50 cent mod with passenger side valve cover pulled
I think he mentions Chris from FTE.