6.0 Do's and Do Not's
#1
08-28-2012, 09:36 AM
6.0 Do's and Do Not's
Hey guys, I had started a thread over in the SuperDuty and Heavy Duty forum and ended up asking a few things about 6.0's along with V-10's. Well being that I have decide to replace my current PSD 7.3 with a six-o I thought I would ask you guys for some does and don't on the recommendation of Crazy001.
I have had my 7.3 chipped on tow mode for about 100K and have always loved it. It seems so much more maintenance free after reading a bit around these parts on 6.0's. SO I don't want to do anything that will hurt my new (used) 6.0.
I'm wondering , of course, about chipping it. I wouldn't ever use it over tow mode but do they make a big difference for the 6.0? It did for sure on my 7.3. How about 4" exhaust. And this "blue spring" upgrade I've read about here. I really cant think about what other things (just finished my 12hr shift at work) so just all of this type of stuff.
As always I very much appreciate all in put. By the way the 6.0 I'm looking at is an '04 Crew/Dually/King Ranch, with 103 on it, sweet truck.
I have had my 7.3 chipped on tow mode for about 100K and have always loved it. It seems so much more maintenance free after reading a bit around these parts on 6.0's. SO I don't want to do anything that will hurt my new (used) 6.0.
I'm wondering , of course, about chipping it. I wouldn't ever use it over tow mode but do they make a big difference for the 6.0? It did for sure on my 7.3. How about 4" exhaust. And this "blue spring" upgrade I've read about here. I really cant think about what other things (just finished my 12hr shift at work) so just all of this type of stuff.
As always I very much appreciate all in put. By the way the 6.0 I'm looking at is an '04 Crew/Dually/King Ranch, with 103 on it, sweet truck.
#2
08-28-2012, 12:03 PM
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Ok lets start with the basic. THe blue spring is more a ford recommended update. It raises fuel pressure coming out of the pressure regulator by a few lbs (about 10) this minimizes the chance of premature injector failure.
As fas as tuning I would recommend research to decide where to go and what to do prior. Like any truck you can get increased performance out of a tune however this can lead to premature catastrophic failures especially with the early 6.0 with the 18mm head bolt. Some of the more agressive tuning I would wait till I have a change to install ARP studs instead of the stock TTY bolts.
Lastly I would recommend a set of guages and maybe a coolant filter to monitor the health of your new baby(maybe toy)...
As fas as tuning I would recommend research to decide where to go and what to do prior. Like any truck you can get increased performance out of a tune however this can lead to premature catastrophic failures especially with the early 6.0 with the 18mm head bolt. Some of the more agressive tuning I would wait till I have a change to install ARP studs instead of the stock TTY bolts.
Lastly I would recommend a set of guages and maybe a coolant filter to monitor the health of your new baby(maybe toy)...
#3
08-28-2012, 03:28 PM
yeah. I'm a n00b myself and still learning but here's what I've got so far
DO use synthetic 5w40 oil.
DO use Motorcraft oil, fuel and air filters.
DO make sure your oil filter cap is FORD and not aftermarket.
DO buy filters and cap from dieselfiltersonline.com, get RACOR brand, that's what's in the Motorcraft boxes.
DO buy a monitor that speaks 6.0L such as ScanGauge II or Edge Insight.
DO take a test drive with this gauge installed and check the condition of the oil cooler, FICM, HPOP, and find out if there are codes.
DO get a OASIS report from the dealership.
DO the blue spring upgrade.
DO add a coolant filter.
DO flush and replace the coolant with Cat EC-1 rated ELC.
DO replace the HFCM drain plug with the improved one.
DO change the oil and filter, and drain the HFCM, at 5,000 miles.
DO change the fuel filters at 10,000 miles.
(I'd like to add something here about the trans but I'm still learning about that one)
DO your own maintenance as much as possible, after learning how here.
DO buy parts from Tousley Ford.
DO NOT use tuners from anybody other than SCT.
DO NOT trust any mechanic, EVEN A DEALERSHIP, to know what they're doing on a 6.0L until after you've come here and found out the shop's reputation.
DO NOT run out of fuel.
I might think of some others to add later.
DO use synthetic 5w40 oil.
DO use Motorcraft oil, fuel and air filters.
DO make sure your oil filter cap is FORD and not aftermarket.
DO buy filters and cap from dieselfiltersonline.com, get RACOR brand, that's what's in the Motorcraft boxes.
DO buy a monitor that speaks 6.0L such as ScanGauge II or Edge Insight.
DO take a test drive with this gauge installed and check the condition of the oil cooler, FICM, HPOP, and find out if there are codes.
DO get a OASIS report from the dealership.
DO the blue spring upgrade.
DO add a coolant filter.
DO flush and replace the coolant with Cat EC-1 rated ELC.
DO replace the HFCM drain plug with the improved one.
DO change the oil and filter, and drain the HFCM, at 5,000 miles.
DO change the fuel filters at 10,000 miles.
(I'd like to add something here about the trans but I'm still learning about that one)
DO your own maintenance as much as possible, after learning how here.
DO buy parts from Tousley Ford.
DO NOT use tuners from anybody other than SCT.
DO NOT trust any mechanic, EVEN A DEALERSHIP, to know what they're doing on a 6.0L until after you've come here and found out the shop's reputation.
DO NOT run out of fuel.
I might think of some others to add later.
#4
08-28-2012, 03:49 PM
yeah. I'm a n00b myself and still learning but here's what I've got so far
DO use synthetic 5w40 oil.
DO use Motorcraft oil, fuel and air filters.
DO make sure your oil filter cap is FORD and not aftermarket.
DO buy filters and cap from dieselfiltersonline.com, get RACOR brand, that's what's in the Motorcraft boxes.
DO buy a monitor that speaks 6.0L such as ScanGauge II or Edge Insight.
DO take a test drive with this gauge installed and check the condition of the oil cooler, FICM, HPOP, and find out if there are codes.
DO get a OASIS report from the dealership.
DO the blue spring upgrade.
DO add a coolant filter.
DO flush and replace the coolant with Cat EC-1 rated ELC.
DO replace the HFCM drain plug with the improved one.
DO change the oil and filter, and drain the HFCM, at 5,000 miles.
DO change the fuel filters at 10,000 miles.
(I'd like to add something here about the trans but I'm still learning about that one)
DO your own maintenance as much as possible, after learning how here.
DO buy parts from Tousley Ford.
DO NOT use tuners from anybody other than SCT.
DO NOT trust any mechanic, EVEN A DEALERSHIP, to know what they're doing on a 6.0L until after you've come here and found out the shop's reputation.
DO NOT run out of fuel.
I might think of some others to add later.
DO use synthetic 5w40 oil.
DO use Motorcraft oil, fuel and air filters.
DO make sure your oil filter cap is FORD and not aftermarket.
DO buy filters and cap from dieselfiltersonline.com, get RACOR brand, that's what's in the Motorcraft boxes.
DO buy a monitor that speaks 6.0L such as ScanGauge II or Edge Insight.
DO take a test drive with this gauge installed and check the condition of the oil cooler, FICM, HPOP, and find out if there are codes.
DO get a OASIS report from the dealership.
DO the blue spring upgrade.
DO add a coolant filter.
DO flush and replace the coolant with Cat EC-1 rated ELC.
DO replace the HFCM drain plug with the improved one.
DO change the oil and filter, and drain the HFCM, at 5,000 miles.
DO change the fuel filters at 10,000 miles.
(I'd like to add something here about the trans but I'm still learning about that one)
DO your own maintenance as much as possible, after learning how here.
DO buy parts from Tousley Ford.
DO NOT use tuners from anybody other than SCT.
DO NOT trust any mechanic, EVEN A DEALERSHIP, to know what they're doing on a 6.0L until after you've come here and found out the shop's reputation.
DO NOT run out of fuel.
I might think of some others to add later.
#5
08-28-2012, 04:45 PM
Same here. ESP warranty till the end of Jan, 2016. However I'm not fully sold on the Ford Gold being the root of the problem. Too many people using it for well over 100,000 miles with no problems.
#6
08-28-2012, 04:48 PM
#7
08-28-2012, 05:48 PM
Speaking of warranty or service contracts has anyone here bought one on-line? Is it worth anything? The dealer I'm buying this from says I cant get one but I know that I can. I did have the Oasis pulled and it is all typical stuff with the injectors with half of them (and the #7 twice) have been replaced at the dealership where I'm buying it.
Even with a 2/24 I'd feel a bit more comfortable with knowing I have a little time to learn the truck. Make sense?
Even with a 2/24 I'd feel a bit more comfortable with knowing I have a little time to learn the truck. Make sense?
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#8
08-28-2012, 05:50 PM
Noob or not good stuff, thank you! 
yeah. I'm a n00b myself and still learning but here's what I've got so far
DO use synthetic 5w40 oil.
DO use Motorcraft oil, fuel and air filters.
DO make sure your oil filter cap is FORD and not aftermarket.
DO buy filters and cap from dieselfiltersonline.com, get RACOR brand, that's what's in the Motorcraft boxes.
DO buy a monitor that speaks 6.0L such as ScanGauge II or Edge Insight.
DO take a test drive with this gauge installed and check the condition of the oil cooler, FICM, HPOP, and find out if there are codes.
DO get a OASIS report from the dealership.
DO the blue spring upgrade.
DO add a coolant filter.
DO flush and replace the coolant with Cat EC-1 rated ELC.
DO replace the HFCM drain plug with the improved one.
DO change the oil and filter, and drain the HFCM, at 5,000 miles.
DO change the fuel filters at 10,000 miles.
(I'd like to add something here about the trans but I'm still learning about that one)
DO your own maintenance as much as possible, after learning how here.
DO buy parts from Tousley Ford.
DO NOT use tuners from anybody other than SCT.
DO NOT trust any mechanic, EVEN A DEALERSHIP, to know what they're doing on a 6.0L until after you've come here and found out the shop's reputation.
DO NOT run out of fuel.
I might think of some others to add later.
DO use synthetic 5w40 oil.
DO use Motorcraft oil, fuel and air filters.
DO make sure your oil filter cap is FORD and not aftermarket.
DO buy filters and cap from dieselfiltersonline.com, get RACOR brand, that's what's in the Motorcraft boxes.
DO buy a monitor that speaks 6.0L such as ScanGauge II or Edge Insight.
DO take a test drive with this gauge installed and check the condition of the oil cooler, FICM, HPOP, and find out if there are codes.
DO get a OASIS report from the dealership.
DO the blue spring upgrade.
DO add a coolant filter.
DO flush and replace the coolant with Cat EC-1 rated ELC.
DO replace the HFCM drain plug with the improved one.
DO change the oil and filter, and drain the HFCM, at 5,000 miles.
DO change the fuel filters at 10,000 miles.
(I'd like to add something here about the trans but I'm still learning about that one)
DO your own maintenance as much as possible, after learning how here.
DO buy parts from Tousley Ford.
DO NOT use tuners from anybody other than SCT.
DO NOT trust any mechanic, EVEN A DEALERSHIP, to know what they're doing on a 6.0L until after you've come here and found out the shop's reputation.
DO NOT run out of fuel.
I might think of some others to add later.
#10
08-28-2012, 06:30 PM
Ok lets start with the basic. THe blue spring is more a ford recommended update. It raises fuel pressure coming out of the pressure regulator by a few lbs (about 10) this minimizes the chance of premature injector failure.
As fas as tuning I would recommend research to decide where to go and what to do prior. Like any truck you can get increased performance out of a tune however this can lead to premature catastrophic failures especially with the early 6.0 with the 18mm head bolt. Some of the more agressive tuning I would wait till I have a change to install ARP studs instead of the stock TTY bolts.
Lastly I would recommend a set of guages and maybe a coolant filter to monitor the health of your new baby(maybe toy)...
As fas as tuning I would recommend research to decide where to go and what to do prior. Like any truck you can get increased performance out of a tune however this can lead to premature catastrophic failures especially with the early 6.0 with the 18mm head bolt. Some of the more agressive tuning I would wait till I have a change to install ARP studs instead of the stock TTY bolts.
Lastly I would recommend a set of guages and maybe a coolant filter to monitor the health of your new baby(maybe toy)...
I think you are confusing the head bolt diameter with the size of the dowel in the head.
#12
08-28-2012, 06:40 PM
#13
08-28-2012, 06:50 PM
#14
08-29-2012, 05:44 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Especially on my year. I know I have a late build. However when I was reading there was mention that early 6.0 engines were a little more susceptiple to failure cause of 18mm verse 20mm head dowel/bolt (please enlighten me) I thought it was the size of the head bolt that changed from 04 to 05 but I could be wrong. Also is it only early model 04 or is it the entire year. I have yet to take my engine down to the head. To be honest I hope never to have to
