6.8L V10 Custom Camshafts - SVTPerformance

 

Ironhand! The man that will most likely be behind my own build

 

interesting, any info on the profiles he is going to offer?

i am shocked there are not more v10 cam options, i guess everybody is on the plug-and-play diesel power craze and there is not enough demand.

 

That would be this Ironhand: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Profile: Ironhand03

 

i just sent my cams to Comp and got them reground.

 

from comp you can get basically any of the off the shelf v-8 grinds correct?

still curious to see the profile ironhand has...

 

You guys are gonna get me in trouble since Im not a vendor on this site.

Yes that is me.


The problem with regrinds is you have to go to a small base circle and that requires shims on top of the valves which I refuse to use on a modular engine. Also you are still stuck in the confines of the existing cam. You can get about another .050 lift out of the stock cams if your lucky and its still a Ford cam with lobes that have been pressed on. Its actually broaching but still the same concept. Aftermarket cams are a better choice because they are made from billet steel.

The advantages of the billet are quite alot. Beside being stronger, less likely to warp. You can also torque the cam bolt down alot higher to prevent failure in the timing system. This benefit is more "use-able" in the 4 valve but the principle remains for the 2 valves as well.


Yup. From comp you have some options but they are still regrinds.

I have ALOT of profiles that I tailor towards the application and intended usage of the engine. I try to keep as much overlap out of the cam as possible to still make it daily driveable without any faults.

 

As long as you are only sharing your "knowledge" and not your products I think you will get a pass. Cory, you are a Chapter Leader. You are irreplaceable!

 

Im sure I could be replaced in the Chapter leader role since I took the slot from someone else. lol

As far as my knowledge is concerned.


Regrinds are fine for the average person but you do have to run caps on top of the valve stems (or longer valves). This is a practice that has long been done in the push rod world. The reason why I wont do it in a modular engine is simple.

A push rod engine has rocker arms that are physically bolted to the head and that prevents the valve and the valve cap from going anywhere. The modular engines roller follower or "rocker" are NOT held on by anything. The roller follower sits on the valve on one end and the lash adjuster on the other. The only thing holding it on when the valve isnt opening or closing is the pressure from the base circle of the cam.

While it is rare I have seen roller followers or "rockers" fly off. If a cam cap was there then it could fly off as well and end up going through the oil drain backs on the bottom of the cylinder head and into the block or oil pan. So that method does have some concern and why I refuse to use them.

 

how much lift can you get out of these without going to a smaller base circle, like the regrinds? how much lift are you pushing the v10 to?

do you have some cookie cutter grinds or is every cam going to be made to order?

 

As soon as you regrind the cam you have to go to a smaller base circle. Its the only way to make sure the lobe is perfectly round with zero run out.

.550 lift is easy with the 2Vs and Ive done that high in the 4 valves. I just did a set of custom 4 valve cams that are .525 lift. Which is quite a bit for that particular motor but the head flow continues to pick up after .500 lift. I try to make the cam lift at or slightly above the head flow at peak lift without going over. You go too far over then you might pick up alittle bit of extra power but you will be beating the dog crap out of your springs and risk a spring failure.

All of my cams are custom. Meaning, I pick the duration of the intake and exhaust cams, the lift of both cams, the Intake and exhaust centerlines, and the lobe separation angle and where the cams are too be timed at.

If you knew anything about me you would know that I dont do anything "cookie cutter". That is what Comp and all the big names already do and stuff that I find quite boring.

 

i meant no offense by the cookie cutter term, but i wouldnt rule it out if i were you. after all, if ten guys want the same rpm range cam for the same engine mods, that cam is no longer "custom".

the regrinds need to be made smaller, but why not go to a hardweld to drop cost and solve your base circle issue?

 

Your first line is correct and that has happened a few times where someone wants something that I already did for someone. The difference may be the lift used due to the springs that they already have.


By the time you pay for someone to reweld the base circle of the cam which is alot on a modular V10 and even more on a set of 4 Valve cams then it washes that price point away. Plus it is a good idea to have the cams re harded. If you do that much welding then you will pull the stock cams out of wack with that much heat and you will have to weld every cam lobe and even the cam journals. Atleast that is the smart way to do it.

So with all of that said the Billet blanks start to look even better and better. Not to mention you start with a much stronger cam core to begin with. With a billet cam and a cam stud I can torque it to 160 ft lbs where the stock cams would be destroyed at that pressure.

 

well if the cost is close to the same then i am 100% for the billets. i figures there would be more of a gap.

have you done a set with big lobes and some overlap? just curious what this engine would sound like camming away at idle.

 

While that cammed sound does sound cool that just means the off idle performance and the bottom end torque is existing your tail pipe and not something I would use in a truck engine what so ever.

Modular engines respond best to duration but that must be kept under check or you do loose that off idle torque, your bottom end torque and both peak torque and horsepower wont happen until much later in the RPM band making it useless for daily driving, towing, and everything you typically use a truck for. Plus you end up loosing power under the curve and that turns the truck into a dog most of the time.

The best things anyone could do with a V10, is to port the heads(Get flow numbers) match the cams to that port, ditch then entire intake and replace it with something that has shorter runners but a huge plenum area. Then give it a free flowing inlet elbow to the T/B and use a massive T/B. Something like a Whipple 160mm would work because it flows over 2500 cfm. The existing T/B was meant to feed a 4.6-5.4L and is just too restrictive to feed something as large as a 6.8L.

In short change everything from the intake valve up to the air filter and you will be rewarded with something that will be not only driveable but produce loads of torque and power. It would actually close down the diesel gap by a good margin.