Truck was running very sluggish after changing plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor but., and a bunch of other stuff and then cleaning intake it is running good but over heats, even with stat removed & has a very high idle need help going broke on this problem

 

Check your firing order. And then recheck them again. Unless you have done something else you didn't list, I bet you got the firing order wrong.

 

I agree with LeoJr - start by checking that the wires are in the correct order. Next step would be to check the timing (with SPOUT connector removed)

 

But it runs great now except for the over htg. & high idle. I got the sluggish running fixed.
also if i have a good vacum when the motor is running it drops to 0 when i shut it off. is that normal or should it hold the vacum for awhile

 

In general, vacuum will only be present while running. The exception is if you measure at the vacuum hold canister. It was intended to hold vacuum for some of the accessories. I bypassed mine years ago when it began to leak.

How high is "high idle"? Does the idle speed drop when the engine warms up?

The truck may run smoothly even if the timing is off. Do you hear any knock under load or acceleration?

I'd still check the wires just to be sure.

Is the check engine light on? Always best to start with pulling codes.

 

Good job Jeff, you made it to here where you needed to be.

Once again, a high idle indicates some sort of a vacuum leak.
A vacuum leak will cause an engine to run lean.
A lean engine runs hot.

Try unplugging the Idle Air Control (a.k.a. IAC) valve located on top of the throttle body and see if the idle drops back down to about where it should be.

If so, you have a sticking IAC.

Checking for trouble codes is highly advised as well.

Let us know what you find.

Bob

 

Ive changed the air idle speed control. the only code thats being set is 332. thats with the KOEO mode. Ive checked all the vac. lines i can see but ill go over it again. I dont have a tach but the idle is pretty high it,ll get going 10 or 15 mph without me touching the gas pedal but just by sound if im on the brake it dont sound real high, if that makes any sense. i,ll chk those vac lines again and im going to chk. the line going from the egr to the exaust an see if thats clogged. ill get back to you guys shortly. I sure appreciate your help and input.

 

Sounds like your EGR valve isn't fully closing/opening correctly due to being dirty.

You did say "and a bunch of other stuff and then cleaning intake"
Did you remove and clean the EGR valve as well ?????

Bob

 

Yes. In detail i replaced ,Plug wires plugs,Dist.Cap,Rotor button,Air idle control valve,EGR valve .Idle pos. sensor. None of this stuff helped the sluggish running. So I took the intake manifold off cleanedit cleaned the throttle body very good . put every thing back together. The sluggish running was fixed runs good except the high idle & over htg. so i took the t-stat out . Didnt help. I also took the 2 solenoid valves off and cleaned best i could that control the EGR. They are both elec.& vac. operated. But i can take them completely off and theres no change at all. Could the tube that goes from EGR down to the exaust be clogged and cause this. When i first start the truck the idle is so high that the valves rattle for a second before the oil is lubricating them im afraid its going to burn the valves or something

 

Im sorry truckin Bob . To answer your Question yes i cleaned the EGR. Ive had another xtra one for awhile. I bought some time ago when i thought it was bad but it wasnt. So I cleaned it up and put it on.

 

Also changed the fuel filter, then the fuel pump, and fuel tank. Also cleaned fuel injectors,an changed o-rings and caps on the injectors. I believe this was the original problem causing the sluggish running. Sorry i keep adding stuff instead of putting all in one msg. but ive been typing so much and thinking about this dag gone thing im starting to lose it. thanks again.

 

I'd say that's where your problem lies.

Depending upon how you cleaned the EVR solenoids or how they were "re-hooked up", you may have damaged or changed their ability to function correctly.

Additionally, there should be a small blue disk item (one way vacuum check valve) that has to be oriented in the vacuum line correctly.
That check valve is most likely located at the back side of the valve cover near the firewall.

Double check the "coffee can" to make sure it holds vacuum too.

Re-visit all of that "vacuum system" and I'll bet you'll find your solution somewhere in there.

late edit: Here's a link to a like problem: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...egr-valve.html

Pay attention to what subford (Bill) has to say, he's da' man !!!!

Bob

 

The "overheating" part concerns me. Just how much is it overheating? Is your fan working? Have you checked for coolant in your oil and/or oil in your coolant? You could try doing a compression test, but I had two broken head bolts and compression was still great.

 

Hey Thanks Bob
I know what those chk. valves look like theres not one on there. I took the lines off at there con. without bothering any part of the line those have like boots that slip on the valves and ive had all that out before. But Ino what you mean by cleaning the solenoids. Ill chk that cannister and get with that other guy. i really appreciate your help, when i get it fixed ill let you no. thanks Jeff

 

Hey Brad
Yes the fan works No oil in radiator.
It was running fine until one day it just started running real sluggish like it wasnt getting enough gas. thats when my problem started, and i started doing all the work. It never overheated until I got it running good again .
Im pretty sure its running lean causing the overheating & High Idle.