It's way better than what I had. I figured if I can get it all working properly, it will be amazing. But I've hear one of my rear wheel cylinders is leaking or a rear line is split. They weren't sure at the shop. So, new lines, probably a rear brake inspection, and revamping the booster.

 

May need an adjustable proportioning valve too

 

Finally bought the E4OD plug to replace the crushed one that's currently there, paid $2 for both versions (pre 94 and post 94) so it was a great deal, also got an AODE plug for $2.5 (the junkyard guy messed up), I guess I'll sell that one .

 

You do? I could probably make use of an adjustable valve so I can regulate the pressure between front and rear. Otherwise, my current property valve is in good condition. I don't think any of my extras would work if I even have them still. They were of of 2 F350s and an F100.

 

Im going to run one.

How do you hace your lines? Have any pictures of your set up?

 

Here is booster, and the PS lines.


I don't remember these photos but here is the Prop valve. Stock.


I guess at some point I pulled the bracket off to paint it. I don't member doing this though. It's a stock prop valve, and it's the old one I replaced with a junkyard one when I did the Booster conversion.

 

Rebuilt the front brakes, calipers, pads and hardware kit. Used it to pull a bunch of small trees out and then hauled a heavy load of firewood home with it. Still trying to get my Warn winch to work, it will wind the cable up but not out. 4 brand new solenoids. It is starting to annoy me.

 

May be the switch?

 

Jeez, I am boring. I got gas in mine and that's about all she ever needs.

 

Replaced the O2 sensor for an intermittent check engine light and low power. Figured the old one has 110,000 miles and couldn't hurt. Made a world of difference. Still relatively gutless but doesn't fall on it's face now. Check engine light has not come back on since.

 

How did you get the hydroboost mount line up to the stock firewall holes?

 

We left the studs on place from the stock hardware and made new oles on the base plate of the booster. Due to GM having a much larger base plate on their boosters, we ended up drilling new holes. With a Ford unit you only have to expand the holes as they are just a little bit off. We did all this to ensure that this is just a bolt on mod and can be reversed at any time.

 

Ah, correction. We left the stock mounting holes. I was thinking of the truck I pulled the booster off of that had studs sticking out.

 

I had to drill new holes for the ford e450 booster since the bronco holes didnt line up. Is your pedal rod straight to the brake pedal or it os bent some?

 

Well... bent isn't really what I'd call it.



I suppose it is at a bit of an angle. However, it is way longer than a Ford one. You can see it pass right by the brake pedal arm.



I had a member on here helping me(he did a lot of the work) and his idea was to make an "extension" of sorts. Works well enough but I feel like it's a weak link.



You can see where it bolts to the pedal arm, the other bolt toward the top of the photo is where the rod bolts to. Normally that bolts to the pedal arm like a Ford one would. This was just way too long so we had to improvise.