You left the lugnuts loose, how can you be sure? check the stud holes in your rim, you'll see the studs filed them... I did that once with one front tire, luckily I only messed the rotor, the tire and the rim, and my insurance paid for the damages on the taxi my tire decided to visit. BTW, check that tire for deformations, if it has any then it's a goner, and if the rim holes are filed you'll need to have it replaced or repaired (I would use it for the spare as I did with my repaired rim).
P.S.: You're and idiot (me too), and I'm glad you didn't get hurt nor hurted someone else.
Haha I know it
Btw what did you mean by "filed lug holes"? Like out of round ones? Mine are pretty chewed up from the lugnuts cutting into them. I planned on asking my boss if he had any 15x8 steelies that he doesn't want. He said he had a 9" rear end that the inards are toast on and he said I can pick parts off it for mine if I need too, he also has a lot of rims to repair the plumbing trucks/vans. I could get 4 of those and keep one of my aluminum ones as a spare (as you suggest) but I still have an issue of finding a place for the spare. I kind of like those roof baskets that some jeeps have where they have a tire and fuel but I don't know how they look on a bronco. I don't have room inside for a 35 to hang around.
1978 Ford Bronco Ranger XLT *The Green Machine* 351Mutant§35x12.5R15§3" Body lift§
1987 Ford Mustang GT§Drag Radials§5 speed§FAST!§PGM Leading The Washington Chapter With An Iron Fist! - Dylan
Picked up the crap in the console and the rear and classified it, I spent more than 5 hours doing so. Now it's almost empty. I also isolated the A/C hoses and dryer to make the system more efficient. Finally, installed some trim clips that were missing, sadly some didn't go all the way in.
Found IDIOT who put the 4.56 gears and locker in did not properly torque things. Lost 2 of the ring gear bolts. When they got tossed around they beat up the VSS gear and punched a hole in the cover. Pinion bearing is also done as well.
Installed rear sway bar. I relocated the frame side of the end link to compensate for the lift block.
Changed the 5 speed and t-case fluid as well
Looking for Blue 40-20-40 seats. PM me !!!
Just an hour and a half ago I received the OD button and cap and installed them on the shifter lever, it's nice to have all that working properly. Keeping the old button surely would have hurt the new trans since at times it activated/deactivated randomly (thankfully it never did at highway speeds, and I took it out once it got worse).
Replace PVS switch on manifold, tightended up collector bolts, installed a seal in the transmission linkage that I forgot on the rebuild, put a new c clip on the throttle linkage that kept falling of, checked torgue on the manifold, and installed a port on the carb. Then spent 5 hours attempting to get the vacuum lines, EGR, PVS, amplifier, cannisters, check valves all hooked up. What a fiasco that was...somewhere there's a vacuum leak. Wound up putting it back to before starting, and it runs worse; but sometimes idling on a new build will foul a plug since the rings aren't completly sealed...or so I've heard.
Dylan had to **** himself... Lol...
Started to undercoat the frame.. Did another shock.. And new hardware... All new vacuum lines with rubber hoses.. 5/32 or 4mm... Swapped tires from my 96 to my 93 since a 10.5 and Dana 50 swap is going to happen.. Get r done!!!
Timing cover next on the list
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