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  #31  
Old 08-29-2012, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgethis View Post
Hope to finish installing teh new gaskets today. The Wife wants to learn how to work on cars so its going slow.
My wife wants to learn remodeling/construction and woodwork, actually
She is pretty good at woodworking, she did say she wants to learn how
To weld. I need to build a few steel jigs, this may be a good time for
Her to learn.

Bronco battery was dead, dragged out the battery charger to get
It started.

We need to drive that thing more often. (our Explorer is much nicer to
Ride around in)
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  #32  
Old 08-29-2012, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GruesomeJeans View Post
Aw man, u joints are never fun... Especially that double cardon joint.. What a pain.
Thanks for the encouragement...lol..that is what I have to do the ones coming from the T-case. Oh well. should be fun. Any advise on some good ones?
Or different thread. I was think Napa's Precision Ujoints
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  #33  
Old 08-29-2012, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captbs32 View Post
Any advise on some good ones?
Or different thread. I was think Napa's Precision Ujoints
Excellent choice Precision or Spicer are the way to go.
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  #34  
Old 08-29-2012, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GruesomeJeans View Post
Aw man, u joints are never fun... Especially that double cardon joint.. What a pain.
Haha yeah... I did that about two years ago. I needed to buy a dremel tool to get the stupid ball type joint from the double cardon joint out. The guy at home depot told me to leave it alone and bring it to a drvieshaft shop and that I wouldn't be able to do it. Well I bought the dremel tool anyway and it ended up working and everything has been running great ever since!

I'm just waiting on hearing about my seats! I'll then have those installed today. Maybe install some of the power options I have been accumulating. My power mirrors came in today, but I don't really want to install them until I get the door actuators, window motors and regulators etc..
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  #35  
Old 08-29-2012, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captbs32 View Post
Thanks for the encouragement...lol..that is what I have to do the ones coming from the T-case. Oh well. should be fun. Any advise on some good ones?
Or different thread. I was think Napa's Precision Ujoints
Haha. Advice you say? Alright. Well get a big hammer and a chisel or a punch to get the old ones out. You will need a spark plug socket, I think it is 9/16 or something. AND i have some part numbers to help you avoid the issues i had. But since yours is 81 and mine is 78 i don't know if the u-joints will be the same. I recommend taking all 3 old joints to Napa and matching them. Anyways so you have 3 u-joints and 1 CV ball joint. You got 2 u-joints of the same kind, one in the cardon joint and one in the other side of the driveline. Then there is the one closest to the T-case that should be a smaller one but only slightly. Her are the numbers.

CV Centering Yoke: 607
Smaller u-joint: 353
Bigger u-joint: 354

Mind you these are the greasable Precision joints from Napa. Like i said, bring in your old ones to make super sure they are going to fit.

You might know this already but to get them in/out after you get the spring clip out, put a socket on the cap and hammer the ever loving crap out of the sucker till the comes out of the other side. then pull the cap and slide it out. To install is the reverse. I wish i had a better way to describe it but i didn't get pictures when i did mine. I was pissed cause mine weren't going in. I ended up having the wrong ones.

Next. BE EXTRA CAREFUL you don't want to lose ANY of the little needles to fall out. If they do then you will either need to buy a new u-joint or try to find and clean the one you lost. Anywho, i'm sure you now how to do this :P Just take your time and if you start getting angry, take a break and walk around or something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigzirb View Post
I picked up my wheel bearings from Auto Zone then got in trouble when I got home for spending too much time in the garage. I agreed to spend time with my wife and son in the house tonight. I made dinner, gave him a bath, and put him to bed. Then I sat on the couch with my wife while she watched her TV shows and I started typing up my build thread (finally) on the laptop while sitting next to her.
Here it is.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...big-truck.html
At least that is the start, I'll keep updating it as I have time until I get it to where I am now.
I will be sure to follow the thread. Good work Stay safe and keep working on those Bronco's!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba Jones View Post
Haha yeah... I did that about two years ago. I needed to buy a dremel tool to get the stupid ball type joint from the double cardon joint out. The guy at home depot told me to leave it alone and bring it to a drvieshaft shop and that I wouldn't be able to do it. Well I bought the dremel tool anyway and it ended up working and everything has been running great ever since!

I'm just waiting on hearing about my seats! I'll then have those installed today. Maybe install some of the power options I have been accumulating. My power mirrors came in today, but I don't really want to install them until I get the door actuators, window motors and regulators etc..
Never listen to anyone who says you can't do something. There is always a way to do it at home Good luck on them seats. I bet they will be real nice.
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  #36  
Old 08-30-2012, 09:45 PM
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Double cardan joints are more complicated but still the same, Emphasis on don't lose the needles! I always pack the caps full of grease before trying to install them, have had one needle fall over while installing and that kinda ruins the whole bearing.
ANYHO...
Replaced the passenger side pads and rotor and drivers side pads. Found a bad tierod end while working on it too. good news is it's the short end nearest the drivers tire.
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  #37  
Old 08-30-2012, 10:11 PM
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My tie rod ends are trashed but according to the tech at a shop i worked at, said it wasn't anything to worry about just yet. I had bigger problems.

When i did my u-joints, i did put grease in and yes i will admit i had some needles fall over but i got them back in place just fine. As long as they don't fall out of the cap itself i would imagine you would be ok.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

This little bugger here is a pain in the butt to deal with.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #38  
Old 08-30-2012, 10:26 PM
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I've broken those grease fittings off so many times that I use the needle type, looks like a small bowl with a ball in the middle. saved them off of different "extreme duty" u-joints I've tried.Only drawback to these fitting is you need a adapter or a separate grease gun to lube them. Have to say I've had the best luck with the Precision brand joints and the "red and tacky" grease.
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  #39  
Old 08-30-2012, 10:50 PM
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These are the precision ones from Napa that i bought. I haven't had issues with the zirc fittings yet but i haven't had to use them much.
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  #40  
Old 09-19-2012, 08:19 PM
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I pulled off the bombs (natural gas tanks). Going to touch up the frame a bit with some black paint. It looks a whole bunch better without them hanging off the frame.
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  #41  
Old 09-19-2012, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zip View Post
I pulled off the bombs (natural gas tanks). Going to touch up the frame a bit with some black paint. It looks a whole bunch better without them hanging off the frame.
Do you have some pics and info on your setup? Dual fuel or dedicated CNG? I would love to figure out a dual fuel setup. Oh, I would say throw some rubberized undercoating on there too.
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  #42  
Old 09-20-2012, 12:28 AM
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There's not much of it left on the truck now. From what I could see it is pretty much the same as the propane setup. It was a dual fuel. One of the main reasons I am taking it out is that there is no where to fill here.

Some rubberized undercoating wouldn't be a bad idea.
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  #43  
Old 09-20-2012, 10:28 AM
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Replaced the power steering pump and steering box from a parts truck I bought. I know they're not new, but going from a pump and box with 500,000 miles on them to a set that has 120,000 miles on them is a HUGE HUGE improvement.

The pump is SO much stronger and the steering box is way tighter. Plus, the other pump had bearings that were going out, so less stress on the engine. Turns so much easier and doesn't wander all over the road.

Yet, my favorite part is the sound. I've dealt with that miserable whine for 8 years now and it's GONE!!



This had to have been the noisiest pump I've ever heard. The whine some people get while they're turning is the whine I had at idle when it wasn't doing anything. I couldn't post engine videos because you couldn't hear the engine, all you heard was WHIRRRRRRRRRRRRR. Then, it got about 20x worse when I did turn. My wife could tell when I was coming home because she could hear it out the window a half a mile away.

And now....it's quiet.
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  #44  
Old 09-20-2012, 09:47 PM
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I knocked the tie rod loose on the driver side knuckle on the Bronco and the same on my donor axle. Making progress on my 8 bolt outers swap a tiny bit at a time.
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  #45  
Old 09-20-2012, 09:51 PM
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Nothing exciting, I had a coolant leak at the timing valve cover on my 89 bronco. I spent a day taking it off and repairing it. Problem solved.
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:51 PM
 
 
 
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