Well, the block is torn down and everything is as clean as I'm going to get it so it is time to go to the machine shop with my 460 rebuild. I'm going with a stock rebuild (I know, boring!). This is my first rebuild so I'm looking for inputs on this but here is my list of instructions for the machine shop:

1. Block cleaned and bore if needed. Check for cracks also.
2. Pistons disassembled and rods checked.
3. Crankshaft cleaned and grind if needed.
4. Check camshaft, replace if needed, otherwise clean.
5. Clean and recondition heads. I'm going with new lifters and pushrods but keeping my rocker arms as is.
6. Tap and clean all bolt holes
7. Install all freeze plugs
8. Deck block head to tolerances (I think it's out of tolerance now, but my smallest gauge is .008 and the tolerance is .003 - .006, so I'm not sure).
9. Remove camshaft bearings and replace with new ones.
10. Should I have them replace the flywheel bearing?
11. Provide the rebuild kit including main bearings, connecting rod bearings, pistons, cam (if needed), lifters, pushrods, timing change set, timing change cover, water pump, thermostat and gaskets.

I'm using Spreen Machine in Boerne, Tx. They are recommended by local part stores and local mechanics. They know Fords.

Thanks!

 

Sounds like a nice project you have going!

 

for me since i did the rebuild already on the third motor, I just pulled the Trigger on the X306 from Ford. Absolutly Fantastic,

 

Are x306's for 460s? Summit Racing shows those for 302s and 351s.

I think I'll add these to my list:

12. Enlarge or port the intake and exhaust openings in the heads and the intake manifold to improve flow.
13. High performance head gasket instead of stock replacement to improve compression (a little).
14. New head bolts
15. Check to see if I need new exhaust bolts and main bearing bolts.

 

There's really no reason to port the intake on a stock rebuild.

If the engine is in the machine shop I would have them mock it up and zero deck the block to set quench at .040".
There is no need for fancy gaskets.

Those head bolts are massive. If they are in good shape I would rather spend my hard earned money on something more important.

Definitely replace the exhaust bolts/studs with stainless.
Use plenty of anti-seize.
Appreciate this for years to come when they still come out and actually have heads to get a wrench on.

I don't see any reason to replace the main bolts in a stock rebuild unless they show damage or stretch.


Just my 2c

 

Machine shops tend to have there own ways of doing things and letting you know what should be done. A list is one thing, but it's really budget and how good the shop is.

1. Block cleaned and bore if needed. Check for cracks also.
Make sure they clean well, most will have a hot tank, make sure, most will remove ALL the plugs first, make sure.

It WILL need to be bored and honed, if they tell you otherwise take your stuff and leave.

Checking for cracks should be done with a WET magnaflux, if they don't do it wet consider looking for someone who does.

2. Pistons disassembled and rods checked.
Rods will need to be magnafluxed and "resized" and you will need them to at least install the new pistons on the rods.

3. Crankshaft cleaned and grind if needed.
Few machine shops can grind a crank in house, they outsourse or swap. Have the oil ports chamfered, and polishing/rounding the crank to reduce windage is good and free if you do it yourself.

4. Check camshaft, replace if needed, otherwise clean.
Do not reuse your camshaft, they are cheap, aftermarket are much better and they wear in with the lifters.

5. Clean and recondition heads. I'm going with new lifters and pushrods but keeping my rocker arms as is.
Heads are a biggie, likely half your budget. Hot tank, wet magnaflux, bronze guides, and at least grind valves/seats. New lifters with new camshaft, no need at all to buy new pushrods unless yours are damaged. Taking your heads home after the first steps to do a little grinding/polishing is free horsepower for just your time.

10. Should I have them replace the flywheel bearing?
Do you mean pilot bushing? Yes if you can't on your own, and surface the flywheel.

11. Provide the rebuild kit including main bearings, connecting rod bearings, pistons, cam (if needed), lifters, pushrods, timing change set, timing change cover, water pump, thermostat and gaskets.
Skip pushrods, don't buy "stock" timing chain, it's retarded, get a strait up double roller(cloyes)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finger__Rachet

I think I'll add these to my list:

12. Enlarge or port the intake and exhaust openings in the heads and the intake manifold to improve flow.
13. High performance head gasket instead of stock replacement to improve compression (a little).
14. New head bolts
15. Check to see if I need new exhaust bolts and main bearing bolts.

Enlarging ports, not really needed, take home after disambly, hot tank, and magnaflux so you can take your time to remove any restrictions, polish the quinch area and port match.

Hi quality head gasket, the thickness of which will depend on deck height, quinch after decking to ensure correct compression ratio.

No need for new head bolts.

Of course new exhaust manifold bolts, the rest can be reused. I wouldn't recomend stainless though, most stainless becomes more brittle with heat cycling.

What isn't here already hmmm
16. Oil pump, high volume not high pressure

16. Have them instal and check the rings, I'd have them assemble the long block to.

17. Check and maybe line bore/hone

18. Dynamic balance, if they can't find someone who can.

19. Pay very close attention to compression ratio.

What is this truck all about, cam and compression choice are very important. Stock injection? Stock manifolds?

 

Thanks for the feedback. I had Greg Spreen of Spreen Machine look over my bolts and he said they just needed cleaning. He didn't see the need for new head, intake or exhaust since they came out fairly clean.

As to the deck quench to .040, I asked for something like. I'd found a post over on 460ford.com by the guy who owns a machine shop specializing in BBFs. Here is what he said about doing a 460 EFI performance build:

There have been many posts here with regard to upping the antee on the efi 460's.

So he said something similar to you about decking the heads. Said the exhaust ports are okay, but that the intake flow could be improved.

 

Thanks for all the extra tips!

 

My rebuild thread is also on this forum.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...d-project.html

 

Scott knows his stuff when it comes to EFI Lima engines.
I would trust what he has to say regarding porting the intake, I was not aware of that.

Heed his warning about clipping the valve guides.

 

He seems to have lots of cred on the forums. So I included his advice to my machine guy. We will see what my machine guy says.

 

He will need the flywheel for the dynamic balance, and yes might be a good idea to just buy one, you get a new ring gear with it to. Probably cheaper then having a bushing, surface and ring gear done. But whatever you do, do it now cause the machine shop needs it before they can balance. They should have told you this.

This refers to the main bearings, making sure that the mains are the right size/round and perfectly in line with each other.

Both rod and main bearing caps become oval over time. They are made round again by grinding a small amount off the mating surface and regrinding them round. In the case of the mains this is done with a single long hone to make sure they are all perfectly in line.



All the rotating parts need to be in balance to keep it from vibrating to death. A dynamic balance spins the crank with weights on it based on the weight of the rod/piston combo with the flywheel and balancer attached in a machine much like a tire balancer. He will then add or remove weight from designated areas to balance it out.

 

Thanks possum!