First post and you're already breaking the rules. Awesome.

 

What rule?

 

The one about not discussing legal action.

 

Dave6746: Sorry to hear. Would you post pictures when you can? I hope others will see this thread and check their tank before their engine is harmed.

 

Does this also apply to 03 excursion 6.0? I'm having an issue where I have no power at half or full throttle but just taking off normal at stop lights is fine. It's been getting worse over the last month. I just got it out of the shop last week and it went from note able to horrible. The shop doesn't seem to know what's going on. They are replacing the hpop and injectors and doing the studs. But I kept telling them I thought it was a fuel issue. It use to blow black smoke on my tune. Now it blows nothing out.

 

Nevermind^^^, I finally found another write of someone asking the same and a few people said an ex comes with a plastic tank.

 

I try to use as little rubber as possible. I especially do not like it on top of an engine. Aluminum forms very easily.

This is the filter in my 84/89. There is a water-in-fuel sensor available.

https://plus.google.com/photos/11072...15566253280768

The thing that looks like an engine oil filter actually was intended for that but I am using it as a trans filter. That is the supply pump on the frame. The block it feeds into has the vacuum switch. It is the injection pump that trips the vacuum switch. There is a "faucet" that allows me to get fuel from the system or flush the line to the tank.

 

rayav: Your set up looks very interesting. This is what I did:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-strainer.html

 

Update:

<!-- m -->http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14 ... on-405106/

http://www.8-lug.com/tech/1307_tank_...s/viewall.html

 

*I have a 99 F350 diesel that has had a few fuel issue events. *They sound similar to what I have read about related to the flaking - fuel starvation. *The difference is mine (5 or 6 times) have been over a span of a year, very widely varying in time. *The 1st was ~1 year ago & I attributed to cold weather gelling. *Then in December there were 2 events but it was cold for both & I had not treated fuel, again I thought cold. *In the last 2 months it has quit 3 times while driving. *Each time it would restart after sitting a few minutes, run rough for a minute but then even out & run fine for weeks. *Is this how it starts? What I have read makes it sound like once you start clogging you are stuck, or at best crawling.

 

Normanrvr: Fuel tank delamination is a problem which is peculiar to oem galvanized metal tanks which have been painted inside. The E-Series, the F550 and F650 may have metal tanks, but the F150, F250 and F350 all have plastic tanks. Please check the type of tank you have. if your tank is made of plastic, then the inside is not painted and delamination is not your problem. You may indeed have fuel starvation issues, but they would not be due to delamination.

If your tank is plastic, please start a thread with a description of your vehicle's drivability problems and then there are some brilliant people on this forum who will help you diagnose the cause. Good Luck.

 

First off I wanted to personally thank all of the contributors to this thread. I own a diesel Clubwagon with a 7.3 and also had a problem with power loss. The old tank lining in my van was peeling off in the inside as many of you noted in this thread. Notified regarding this issue and as expected a PR person came back with a useless explanation. Thanks again for the help and here are some pics with regard to my old tank and cost.

Ford Tank Part#2C2Z9002FA $906.22 + Shipping Total 1089.47
Filter Part #E5TZ9J306BA 44.75
Vapor Valve Assy 2- Part#F7UZ9B593BA 55.00 Each 110.00
Plug Cap 2- Part#1C3Z9A089AA 15.00 30.00
Gasket Part #F57Z9276AC 22.07
Labor (use of my neighbors lift) 250.00
Total 1546.29

Do to the accessibility of not being able to find a new sending unit in my area I ended up rebuilding my original. Do to the fact I was not a 100% on this repair decision I would have bought a new one before the tank was pulled. If you are going to do this get a new sending unit.

Good luck

 

Thanks for the post Ken. The nonserviceable screen in your fuel pump is likely clogged too. So consider replacing your fuel pump as well.

 

Have a 2001 E450 cutaway cab and chassis. It has a 55 or 60 gallon steel tank. Had a Beverage type body on it at one time. I have the smoking acting like flooding issue at 2300 rpm's. Once pedal gets close to the floor it revs to WOT and smoke mostly clears up. I opened the drain on the fuel filter bowl and ran 5 gallons of fuel through it. A very small amount of debris came out and a extremely fine rust that was so fine it was suspended which after 20-30 minutes settled to the bottom of the bucket. Sounds like this may be part of my issue. Fortunately the truck has no box or bed on it now. Raining so don't know that I will be able to do much about it today. One question I have is has anyone tried a product called Kreem. Not sure if that is the correct spelling but used to use it on Motorcycle tanks back when I was a mechanic on them. It worked well on them but it was gasoline and not diesel. Also will this cause the problem I am having. Seems strange that once pedal reaches the floor it goes to WOT. Thank you for all this great information in this thread. I really like this forum much better than some of the others I have visited!

 

Your E-450 cutaway has a 55 gallon tank, and you are lucky, in that not only is your body off giving you direct access to the top of the tank, but you also have a drain port on the bottom of your tank that neither the vans nor the trucks have.

I have heard of Kreem, and I've heard of products like it being used to coat these Ford tanks. But the difference between a motorcycle tank and your 55 gallon steel tank is huge, when it comes to applying a product like Kreem. It is easy to continually rotate a motorcycle tank to allow gravity to spread the product evenly as it is drying. Much more difficult to manage rotating that unwieldy 55 gallon tank around continuously in all possible spherical directions to apply the product evenly enough so that it hardens without thick spots that are soft and vulnerable to change dimensionally during thermal cycles when the tank is put back in service.

A few companies drill holes through the tanks, spray a liner in from all directions, and then weld the holes they drilled back again. I'm not sure how that works... rewelding the tank after their liner is applied. Maybe it cures differently. I didn't trust the process as it was described to me, so I passed. I'd rather just buy a new replacement tank.

I'll bet you have a small pile of rust directly under the black foot of your fuel pickup in your tank. Even if your liner is intact, you might want to drain your tank into suitable containers to reuse the fuel, and pull your sending unit out and clean the bottom of your tank underneath the foot.

Use lights and mirrors to inspect the top and sides inside your tank. Even poking a small point and shoot camera, set the "Macro" (or the flower) setting, inside the top sending unit hole in the tank and rotating the camera around to take pictures for close up inspection on your computer, would help you determine if your current tank can stay in service or needs fixing.

I found that I could fix my original F550 40 gallon metal tank with Marine Tex (after fully immersing a metal coupon coated with this cured two part epoxy in a gallon of diesel for 3 months as a test), as I did not have liner delamination, I only had the small pile of rusted debris under the pickup foot. But I do monitor my fuel filter for gray flakes, and if I have to drop the tank again, I'm replacing it with a new aftermarket tank from either Transfer Flow or Titan. As much as I prefer stock OEM parts, the labor involved in dealing with this fuel tank issue is too much to have to periodically repeat.