95 Automatic F150 Stumble Problem
#61
#62
No current goes through the ground crimp other than for the trailer plug ground pin or the tail lights if you have no rear bumper.
You also have multiple push-on ground braids from the body to the frame for static for the radio only.
#63
That is a ground crimp to ground the frame if you are pulling a trailer or you do not have a back bumper.
No current goes through the ground crimp other than for the trailer plug ground pin or the tail lights if you have no rear bumper.
You also have multiple push-on ground braids from the body to the frame for static for the the radio only.
No current goes through the ground crimp other than for the trailer plug ground pin or the tail lights if you have no rear bumper.
You also have multiple push-on ground braids from the body to the frame for static for the the radio only.
As I said previously, your knowledge............
Bob
#64
ok yes they were all three corroided. the medium grd wiring coming from the negative battery terminal to the fender. the two small ones (VSS??) were corroided at the end too. I am going to put three seperate eyelets on them all and drill a screw onto the place were i sanded it down to bare metal. can i have three seperate eyelits all attached by one screw? i think this will be ok? i dont understand why these wires are here
The small black wire (circuit #57) is the ground wire for the HO2 sensor & all of the outside lighting on the right front corner.
The small black wire with a white stripe (circuit #570) is the ground wire for the MASS air sensor and the computer pins #40 & #60.
This is also ground point G101.
/
#65
thank you both you guys for your help and correcting any typos/errors i may have made in my information. Alas I am still not over all the electrical problems. Another starter went out. I think the advance auto parts people are catching onto me. I replaced the starter before I changed out those two small connections in the picture above. The stater I just took off had its solenoid fried out.
I started up the car and drove it 5 miles down the road. on the way there the truck almost turned off, and the battery light came on. I slow down and it started back up again, parked the truck and it did not want to turn over. thats when i checked the battery voltage and it was 10.45 volts. And when I put it in it was fully charged.
1. So what do you guys think fried out this starter? I have replaced all the electrical connections. The alternator to starter solenoid cable is the only one left i think. I did a cotinuity test on that cable by disconnecting it from the alternator and from the other side on the battery. And it went from 1 to 0 testing it at the 200 ohms setting on the digital multimeter. so i beleive this cable is ok. although on the alternator side the eye ringlet does have some corrosion on it. i dont think this is the problem????
2. is there a way to put a fuse on between the starter and the solenoid like cut the cable and put one on. So i Stop frying out starters????
3. The only think i could think of that may be frying out the starter is the engine ground location where i mount the new negative battery is a little dirty (just engine rust) could this be the problem.
I wish this dam thing would stop frying out starters and i dont know why the truck is frying out starters with all new cables
I started up the car and drove it 5 miles down the road. on the way there the truck almost turned off, and the battery light came on. I slow down and it started back up again, parked the truck and it did not want to turn over. thats when i checked the battery voltage and it was 10.45 volts. And when I put it in it was fully charged.
1. So what do you guys think fried out this starter? I have replaced all the electrical connections. The alternator to starter solenoid cable is the only one left i think. I did a cotinuity test on that cable by disconnecting it from the alternator and from the other side on the battery. And it went from 1 to 0 testing it at the 200 ohms setting on the digital multimeter. so i beleive this cable is ok. although on the alternator side the eye ringlet does have some corrosion on it. i dont think this is the problem????
2. is there a way to put a fuse on between the starter and the solenoid like cut the cable and put one on. So i Stop frying out starters????
3. The only think i could think of that may be frying out the starter is the engine ground location where i mount the new negative battery is a little dirty (just engine rust) could this be the problem.
I wish this dam thing would stop frying out starters and i dont know why the truck is frying out starters with all new cables
#66
Starter solenoids just do not go bad like that.
It sound like you have power to the starter solenoid at all times. In other words the starter is engaged all the time the engine is running.
This will burn up the starter solenoid and run down the battery.
I would say you may have a bad starter relay keeping the power on to the starter or some miss placed wires at the starter relay.
The starter relay should be wired like in the photo and diagram below.
The starter relay:
The wiring:
/
It sound like you have power to the starter solenoid at all times. In other words the starter is engaged all the time the engine is running.
This will burn up the starter solenoid and run down the battery.
I would say you may have a bad starter relay keeping the power on to the starter or some miss placed wires at the starter relay.
The starter relay should be wired like in the photo and diagram below.
The starter relay:
The wiring:
/
#68
The big 4GA wire that you say is the only wire that should go to starter does not go there. It goes to the POS post of the battery. The 12 GA wire to the spade on starter goes on the other side of the relay where big 4GA wire was.
#71
thank you sub. i finally fixed the dam thing. i had the relay wired wrong. i had the alternator powering the starter constantly. i just put the fuse link wires, + battery wire, and the alternator wire all on one side of the relay and the starter ignition wire all alone by itself and the truck is running fine. also the metallic clanking noise went away. that must have been the starter being engaged on the flywheel. thank you all for helping me resolve these issues
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rangerford87
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
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06-27-2003 05:21 AM