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95 Automatic F150 Stumble Problem

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  #16  
Old 08-24-2012, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by npower24
I am going to remove the ECM on my truck and look at it. I have a 95 f150 5.8liter, I think its under the glovecompartment on the passengers side. I removed the panel and took the bottom bolt off but the heater unit is blocking me access to the top. WTF the location of the fuel filter and the ecm here is a really garbage design, dam ford for doing this design.
The EEC is located in the firewall , in the engine compartment, directly under the brake booster.

Whether or not it has to be removed from the cab or engine bay is year specific......someone will chime in here to verify the correct removal procedure (I don't want to get publicly flogged )

Bob
 
  #17  
Old 08-24-2012, 01:06 PM
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ok then what is that box under the glove compartment? and what about all the other problems in my post?
 
  #18  
Old 08-24-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by npower24
ok then what is that box under the glove compartment? and what about all the other problems in my post?
All of those "problems" could be very well be caused by a failing EEC.

Pull it out and give it a "visual inspection" and tell us what you find/see.

Bob
 
  #19  
Old 08-24-2012, 02:31 PM
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The noise you heard is the pistons going up and down and hitting the open valves. That is from the cam not turning.
Now you more than likely will need a new engine also.
You will find parts of the pistons in the pan.

I sure hope this truck has a good body.
The 1995 F150 is very good truck. I think you got one that nobody took care of.
You should always check the slop in the timing chain when you get another truck.
I always replace the timing chain on every truck I get first off. I then change them every 80K miles. That is about all the miles they are good for anyway.
 
  #20  
Old 08-24-2012, 03:42 PM
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how can you be sure that that is the pistons, because right after i replaced the fuel pump it started up and ran. i mean how do i tell if that is the problem, by rotating the crack or just by dropping the oil pan and seeing if there are debris in it? I am sure a compression test would indicate bent valves and such. i dont know how all this could have gone at the same time?????
 
  #21  
Old 08-24-2012, 06:08 PM
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You said the rotor was not turning and you heard sounds from the engine when you cranked it.
Now you say the engine is running.
Just forget everything I have said.
I will not comment in this thread anymore as I can not tell what is what in this thread.
I think you are pulling our string.
 
  #22  
Old 08-25-2012, 06:21 PM
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sorry subford, let me clear up the confusion. i got the engine running after i replaced the fuel pump. it was low on fuel so i drove it to the gas station and back. the whole time i heard a loud clanking sound like aluminum cans hitting. when i got home it would not start. so i check the fuel, check yes 35 psi on the rail. checked starter, check yes it was whirling. but the engine would not turn over. checked the spark plug, NO spark, took distributor cap off and the rotor inside was not spinning while i was cranking the engine. my friend thinks it might be a bad lifter. but your saying its pistons hitting the valves. sooooo do i replace the distributor or is the timing chain broken???????????????????????? how do i tell if the engine is blown????????????????????
 
  #23  
Old 08-25-2012, 06:51 PM
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After reading over thread I can understand subfords frustration.

Originally Posted by npower24
sorry subford, let me clear up the confusion. i got the engine running after i replaced the fuel pump. it was low on fuel so i drove it to the gas station and back. the whole time i heard a loud clanking sound like aluminum cans hitting. when i got home it would not start. so i check the fuel, check yes 35 psi on the rail. checked starter, check yes it was whirling. but the engine would not turn over. checked the spark plug, NO spark, took distributor cap off and the rotor inside was not spinning while i was cranking the engine. my friend thinks it might be a bad lifter. but your saying its pistons hitting the valves. sooooo do i replace the distributor or is the timing chain broken???????????????????????? how do i tell if the engine is blown????????????????????
This post didn't clear up any confusion the opposite in fact, your posts continually contain contradicting statements.

From this one,

checked starter, check yes it was whirling. but the engine would not turn over.

then immediately followed up with,

checked the spark plug, NO spark, took distributor cap off and the rotor inside was not spinning while i was cranking the engine.

You state the motor doesn't turn over then in the very next comment state that it is.

No one can help you if you are not very clear in what's happening......or not happening.

Engine is cranking / engine turns over = engine spins/rotates when key is turned to "start".

Engine does not crank / engine does not turn over = engine does not spin/rotate when key is turned to "start".

Need to be very clear, if it doesn't physically crank / turn over when you turn the key to "start" don't say something such as while i was cranking the engine. Unless of course it was physically spinning.
The act of turning the key to "start"? that does not equate to cranking engine. It simply means you turned the key to start so include exact information what happens when you do so.

Starter and motor spins or starter spins motor does not spin etc etc be clear and it'd be easier to help you.
 
  #24  
Old 08-25-2012, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by npower24
sorry subford, let me clear up the confusion. i got the engine running after i replaced the fuel pump. it was low on fuel so i drove it to the gas station and back. the whole time i heard a loud clanking sound like aluminum cans hitting. when i got home it would not start. so i check the fuel, check yes 35 psi on the rail. checked starter, check yes it was whirling. but the engine would not turn over. checked the spark plug, NO spark, took distributor cap off and the rotor inside was not spinning while i was cranking the engine. my friend thinks it might be a bad lifter. but your saying its pistons hitting the valves. sooooo do i replace the distributor or is the timing chain broken???????????????????????? how do i tell if the engine is blown????????????????????
By the way is this a V-8 engine you are working with?
If it is a I-6 then it does not have a timing chain and the timing gears are more than likely striped.

If it is a V-8 then pull the distributor out and see if the roll pin that is going through the gear is broken. In other words can you turn the gear on the shaft without turning the shaft?
If the roll pin is broken just drive another roll pin in and put the distributor back in. The engine is more than likely OK.
But you will have to make sure the engine is at TDC with both intake valves closed before you put it back in.

If the roll pin is not broken or the distributor gear is not striped and the cam gear looks OK then pull the timing chain cover off and replace the chain and gears.
If the chain broke you may need a new timing chain cover also.
After replacing the timing chain do a compression test to check if the engine is OK.
 
  #25  
Old 08-26-2012, 11:32 AM
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ECM Pics

Hey all I checked the ECM here is what it looks like. Non of the resistors or capacitors look burnt out. I think it is a good ecm. What is the white button and red light for? reseting the ECM???
 
  #26  
Old 08-26-2012, 11:36 AM
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I will try to use the correct verbage. I probably will mess up though. It is a 5.8 liter V8. I am going to go out there now and try to spin the harmonic balancer bolt to see if the distributor rotates, if it does not then i will take it out and look at it. correct?

also (and i probably should do a search for this) how do i take the timing cover off to see the timing chain? I am assumming the timing chan is in the front not on the side of the engine
 
  #27  
Old 08-26-2012, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by npower24
Hey all I checked the ECM here is what it looks like. Non of the resistors or capacitors look burnt out. I think it is a good ecm. What is the white button and red light for? reseting the ECM???
That is NOT the ECM/PCM Computer. Put it back.

The PCM computer is located in the photo below:


And looks like this:


/
 
  #28  
Old 08-26-2012, 12:08 PM
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ok i wonder what this is then? I will go out and look now for the ECM. What is the harmonic balancer bolt size? I 22mm is too small
 
  #29  
Old 08-26-2012, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by npower24
ok i wonder what this is then?
RABS module.
 
  #30  
Old 08-26-2012, 01:09 PM
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ok I just took the EEC-IV out. there was much cursing and yelling due to the fact that the inner fender must be lowered, and another bracket taken out of the way just to pull it out. the two lower bolts and center bolt holding the jack on must be removed as well. anyways. i see no damage to this one either no burnt out chips or marks. i will post some pics here in a second
 


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