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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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  #16  
Old 08-18-2012, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35 View Post
Just take the DC Power alternator into Auto Parts store and Have a Bench Test Done

Unless you MUST HAVE Truck running at this point in time I wouldnt buy a Cheap alt

I do Feel pretty confident this DC Power Alternator has Gone Bad the voltage regulator has Gone Bad


the ABS Light is normal for it to come on During a Low Power Condition (I know the Voltage the DC Power alt is High But its probably putting out LOW Amps)

I dont think you have a ABS Issue it will go away with a Good Alternator DONT Stress the ABS Light
Your right I can survive without it for a while, Just have to stiff it commuting in my 03 F250 gasser, the experience is so diminutive compared to the X.
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  #17  
Old 08-18-2012, 04:29 PM
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Getting kinda proficient at wrenching on my beast, got the Alternator out like in 2 minutes flat.
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  #18  
Old 08-18-2012, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by chetspencer View Post
Getting kinda proficient at wrenching on my beast, got the Alternator out like in 2 minutes flat.
Thats how the Alt is on my Car China Alts been going about 1 per year

theres just no FICM on the car to worrey about
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  #19  
Old 08-18-2012, 07:10 PM
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So I took my alternator to Autoblown and their test machines circuit breaker would trip on the first stage of testing. Not sure if it's because it's such a beefy Alternator or their machine is flaking out. I left in disgust.
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  #20  
Old 08-18-2012, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
Sorry Slankky, looks like I went to bed before answering your question completely (been a rough week for me lol). In basic electricity classes they often use water as an analogy to electricity. It works pretty well when thinking about a charging system to consider a small town with a water tower (battery), water pump (alternator), pipes (wires), and houses (all the electrical loads on your truck).
There are three basic measurements to make also. The first is how much pressure in psi you have at different points in the system (volts). How much resistance you have to flow caused by valves that are only partially open, smaller sections of pipe etc (ohms) and How much volume you can flow in gallons per hour in different parts of the system (amps).
So to get back to your questions. The battery arrangement is like two water towers of the same size standing side by side simply connected together at the output with a large pipe. No valves, regulators, or anything. Just T'd together. Using a charger is like bringing in an emergency pump. It will fill both tanks at the same time but the bigger the pump (charging rate in amps) the quicker it fills.
One place this water analogy breaks down is your question about using two chargers, if you want to use a separate charger for each battery you should disconnect one of the cables at the battery ( doesn't matter which one, just break the circuit). If everything is connected at the same time the regulators in the chargers will "see" each other and measure the batteries voltage as being higher than it really is causing it to shut off, the other one will then read reduced volts and kick up. I've never done that before but I would expect the chargers to bounce on and off very fast and possibly even damage the charger(s) if you leave it connected very long.
You are correct about voltage output at the alternator. If your water tanks have 50psi you will need 51psi (more pressure anyway) to move any water into the tank. and the higher the GPM of the pump (amps) the faster it can fill the tank.
Hope this helps some.

Rusty,
Thanks for your answer and your time.
So it won't hurt anything to charge both batt's at the same time while connected to the truck, but will just take longer?
So if I have only one 10 amp smart charger and have to charge both batt's, I might as well not worry about disconnecting them? setting the charger on high (10amp) will just be the same as charging them one at a time with 5 amps?
Thanx again
Scott
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  #21  
Old 08-18-2012, 09:19 PM
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That's right . Just connect it to 1 battery and the other battery will come up with it.
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  #22  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
That's right . Just connect it to 1 battery and the other battery will come up with it.

Ok thanx, I had been told no, long ago but never really trusted
That answer. Thanks for explaining.
Scott
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  #23  
Old 08-18-2012, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetspencer View Post
So I took my alternator to Autoblown and their test machines circuit breaker would trip on the first stage of testing. Not sure if it's because it's such a beefy Alternator or their machine is flaking out. I left in disgust.

cause the high volts why it triped the test machine would be my guess

the Alt is BAD


DC has 2 year warrenty so you should be Good
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  #24  
Old 08-19-2012, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLADE35 View Post
cause the high volts why it triped the test machine would be my guess

the Alt is BAD


DC has 2 year warrenty so you should be Good
So I had to go back to Autozone to get a set of rear rotors for my F250 and just said F**k it and bought a alternator for my EX. It's working like it should, so yes indeed the DC Power Alternator is toast.
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  #25  
Old 08-19-2012, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetspencer View Post
Sorry to hijack this but this morning I go to start my Ex and the battery light comes on, then the ABS light comes on. I checked the voltage on my Scangauge and its putting out 16-17 volts. I have a rather new 250A DC Power Alternator. : I'm hoping its a loose ground wire. Batteries are a week old.
Please keep us informed as to what DC Power does with the returned alternator.

Are you sure the sensing wire was not loose (or had a bad connection) and was corrected when the autozone alternator was installed?
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  #26  
Old 08-19-2012, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slankky View Post
Ok thanx, I had been told no, long ago but never really trusted
That answer. Thanks for explaining.
Scott
Depends on vehicle. If batteries are wired in series or if there is an isolator or switch between them it wouldn't charge both.
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  #27  
Old 08-19-2012, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Please keep us informed as to what DC Power does with the returned alternator.

Are you sure the sensing wire was not loose (or had a bad connection) and was corrected when the autozone alternator was installed?
I certainty will keep everyone posted, I checked the DC Power alternator sensing cable adapter harness. But now lm not sure of the integrity of the Ford harness. I will check it for damage later today. Should I just disconnect it and look for similar behavior as the suspected failed unit?
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  #28  
Old 08-19-2012, 02:09 PM
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Unfortunately I can assure you that if the sensing wire is left disconnected (or there is a bad connection) that the voltage will shoot up to 17+V when you start cranking on it. No need to try it!
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  #29  
Old 08-19-2012, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Unfortunately I can assure you that if the sensing wire is left disconnected (or there is a bad connection) that the voltage will shoot up to 17+V when you start cranking on it. No need to try it!
Ok, that's very helpful information! I'm going to start my truck and do the high tech wiggle test on the sense wire. If the volts shoot up I'll have it figured out.
Thank you.
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  #30  
Old 08-19-2012, 03:02 PM
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Sadly the high tech wiggle test passes, voltage didn't flinch. So at this time my DC Power Alternator is heading back to the factory.
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Old 08-19-2012, 03:02 PM
 
 
 
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