Have you pulled the intake off yet? That's where you'll see if the lifters/valves/guides are rusted up. They are tough to get loose if they've had water on them (or mouse nests, etc.). Pistons usually respond to a whack with a 2x4 and a hammer. You might also pull the cam gear off, so you can turn the crank independently of the valve train.

A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is one of the best penetrating solutions around, never hurts to just soak everything with that.

 

as ross said soak it with his mix or one of your own making get it freed up and go from there. i have a stroked and bored flatty tht cost less the a grand to build and runs strong

 

Another possible witches brew is Marvel Mystery Oil and brake fluid mixed 50/50.

 

Damn it Jim, I'm a computer whiz, not a mechanic!

I took off the other head and made this nice discovery:



Any hope of a sleve? Too big for pins? Coffee table?



As to the ID of the engine, heres this photo that I can't make any sense of:



And a overall sde view:

 

Take it to a machine shop and see what they say about sleeving. If those are the only cracks, it might be worth it.

Inside valve chamber, at end of block, look for a model number.

 

It's a late model Flatmotor - Thats about as close as you'll get - The marks shown are casting numbers used to track the casting, not the type/style motor - These things have been so intermingled that it's a wonder thy don't have 11 cyl.
Matching the crank stroke to the rods and pistons is the only must do.

 

EAB heads are the highest compression Ford heads, worth keeping, if not cracked.

Until you have it vatted and checked with dye or mag particle, don't get too excited. Especially check the sides of the block an inch or so above the oil pan rail. If it was left to freeze with plain water in it, you'll see it there. Anything "can" be fixed, but you're probably looking at a couple hundred for sleeving that cylinder alone. That kind of crack is usually from freezing, so there are likely to be more. Check the heads, too.

 

So I got to do some more disassembly, aiming to remove the intake manifold. I removed a dozen or so 9/16 bolts but can't get the darn thing to budge, even with a hammer. Do I need to remove the fan and generator? Do I need to remove the spark plug wire organizers?

 

Yes and yes. You could leave the generator and fan attached, but it triples the weight. The bolts for the plug wire clips hold the manifold to the block.