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junkyard options for hubs or rotors for f1 spindles?

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Old 08-14-2012, 10:36 PM
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junkyard options for hubs or rotors for f1 spindles?

Hello all,

After a long break (no pun intended) I'm back to working on my trucks. I'm just shy of being finished stripping down my parts truck. I've already pulled off most of the brake hardware, but I ran into a problem with the front drums. They are fused to the hubs. No amount of pounding, swearing, pleading or crying has, so far, solved this problem for me. I want to keep the truck rolling to sell it, so I either need to pull the drums off the hubs, or find some replacement hubs or rotors.

For a number of reasons, I'd like to go with the replacement option. Primarily, I'm in a hurry to get what's left of the truck carcass up for sale and I don't have time to ease the drums off the hubs gently, so I don't want to take the chance of warping or cracking the drums. Plus, there is a junkyard sort of near where my parts truck is stored.

So... I thought one possibility would be to find some late model junkyard hubs or rotors to throw onto the truck. The truck doesn't need to be roadworthy, I just need to make a roller. BUT I do need the 5 X 5.5 lug pattern so the wheels I have on hand fit the final product.

I'm not sure what will fit though. I did some searching, and I'm pretty sure this issue has come up before, but I can't seem to find the answer. If someone could point me in the right direction I'd be grateful! Thanks!
 
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:19 PM
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You don't have a hot wrench?
When I get them stuck, I heat them around the center until they make some expanding sound. Sort of a crackling/popping noise...and they come apart easily, with no damage.
Can't help with a newer salvage item though.
Good Luck!
 
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Old 08-14-2012, 11:25 PM
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Afaik, there is no other hub that will fit on the f1 spindle except the stock one. That's why all the disc brake kits need to use a bearing adapter to make them work. The inside bearing grew larger over the years. Even the 53-56 hubs are different from the 48-52's. If you're trying to keep the for sale truck a roller at the lowest possible cost, just dump it with the drums/hubs that are on there and don't worry about it. That's my 2c.
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:21 AM
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Thanks for the advice guys. I don't have a torch set, but heating sounds like a good idea. I also considered having the hubs pressed out, but the shops I've called don't want to go that route. My last resort is to sell it as is, but I'd really like to get the drums off of it as they are in good shape and costly to replace.
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:46 AM
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You might go buy a MAPP gas torch. like your typical hand held propane torch. I have one and it does a pretty good job. It cheap compared to a set of tanks and hardware. I seem to have that thing in my hand quite a bit.
I think I paid $40-$50 for it at Menards. That little sucker really puts out the heat!
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:34 AM
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I'll bet you a dollar that if you take a 3-lb sledge, put on some good safety glasses, and take a good swing at the drum around the rim, it will crack and fall off the hub.
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:39 AM
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52 merc.
the spindles on my 50 merc are the same as 53 ford.the # on the bearings are the same.
when i got my m-68 i wanted the 5 bolt lugs,i picked up a complete 53 axle springs and all.after 2 day of trying to fit things i finally figured it out that they had the same bearings,i just swapped the backing plates and hubs.works great.

badger
if you really need the drums off just remove the hub from the spindle and take in to any shop,have them heat it up for you and they sould pop right off.i cant see them charging more than a couple of bucks to do this.
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 10:11 AM
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Mike,

Are you sure that nothing is binding the drums in place, like the brake shoes that are worn too far out and into the drums? Have you tried to back off the brake shoes with the adjuster screw? Have you soakied it with a good penetrant? Heat and penetrant should help you remove the drums.

If you still can't get them remvoed, then remove the enitre assembly by pounding out the spindle bolt. You can take them to any shop for them to heat or bring to me and I can help you. I have several friends with heat torches, two of which work in fleet maintenance shops and can get that done as a favor to me.
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:29 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions!

Jeff - This is a good idea, I may try it. So should I try to selectively heat the drum or the spindle? Or does it matter?

Ross - I bet it would work, but then I'd have a cracked drum, and that's the part I want to keep. I don't care so much about the hubs as long as they continue to hold the wheels on the truck.

Roy - I will probably try this if I can't get them off myself with heat.

Ilya - The drums are definitely fused to the hubs, as I have already pulled the hub/drum assemblies off of the spindles. I really want to get this done on friday, but if I can't resolve this issue, I may take you up on your offer.
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:40 PM
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Take that hammer like Ross suggested and, very carefully with good aim, give it a good whack in between each wheel stud on the flat part of that drum. It will fall off, and the drum will not be cracked or damaged. Those spots between the studs in a circular pattern are indeed the "magic" spots to hit that thing. You can beat the hell out of that drum anywhere else and it won't budge. Been there, done that.
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by vintage tin
52 merc.
the spindles on my 50 merc are the same as 53 ford.the # on the bearings are the same.
They may use the same bearings and may physically fit, but according to the Ford parts book, the correct hubs are different between the year sets. That's as much as I'll swear to.
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by badger_hound
Thanks for the suggestions!

Jeff - This is a good idea, I may try it. So should I try to selectively heat the drum or the spindle? Or does it matter?
You want to heat the drum around the hole in the drum, where it slides over the center of the axle. You want the heat to expand the drum. Obviously the axle will get warm too, but not as hot as the drum, because it is thin.
You got some good advice from everybody, but I don't like to hit the drum between the studs...as Doc said...that "be careful" part? Yeah my aim is always off when swinging a BFH. Never fails...I hit a stud and mess it up...

I always use heat and hit now. Makes it come off alot easier than without heat. Don't try to pry them off either, I have bent either the backing plate or the drum, doing that.
I like alot of heat and a good hit with a good sized hammer, around the drum. 12:00....3:00....6:00...9:00 o'clock positions...keep the heat up till it comes loose. Wear safety everything. eyes and ears and hands. I seem to want to grab stuff that's too hot!
good luck!
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff and Nicolle
You got some good advice from everybody, but I don't like to hit the drum between the studs...as Doc said...that "be careful" part? Yeah my aim is always off when swinging a BFH. Never fails...I hit a stud and mess it up...
Hehe. One must use GREAT CONCENTRATION when try to catch fly with chopsticks. It can be done. Remember to breath and wax on, wax off, Daniel-san. A well aimed 6 inch blow will do it, Grasshopper. May the force be with you.
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc
Hehe. One must use GREAT CONCENTRATION when try to catch fly with chopsticks. It can be done. Remember to breath and wax on, wax off, Daniel-san. A well aimed 6 inch blow will do it, that's what I told herGrasshopper. May the force be with you.

Murphy's Law is a law that I live by....

and I USE to hold hammers too close to the business end! fingers do not make good "bumpstops" for hammers!
 
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:59 PM
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Well, I'm gonna try the heat and hammering technique on friday so I'll report back on how things go...
 


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