Yea. It works well for me. I would suggest trying to remove your stock coil springs before you get too far. I couldnt get mine out, because I was going to break the bolts. Sent my lift back.

 

I only have two jack stands. I can only do the back first then the front.
Why would I need to start on the coils? Just wondering.

 

Finish the back as you are doing, just flip and bolt the hangers back in the same holes, connect the leaf springs and the axle to them and stop there.

Then do the front coil swap, once the tires on one and it setting on solid ground you can do a ride height ck and determine if you need to move the rear hangers fwd a bit.

 

Sounds like a plan.

I've seen people on here face the shackles two ways.
Which is right or does it matter?

 

I started with my coils and I am glad I did. If I would have gotten all the rear done and then not been able to get my coils on, I would have been mad.

 

Thats a good point.
I plan on soaking them in kroil before and when I do them. If they wont budge I will cut them fudgers out and cut the nut off! Im very determined!

 

It doesnt have a nut. They are sunk. The bottom bolts on the coil. You break those and you got real problems.

 

I thought you meant the top nut and bolt.

 

No, at the bottom. Mine are frozen in there.

 

What size bolt am I gonna need to bolt the hangers back on? Grade 8 of course.

 

Subscribed to this lift thread too.

 

Thanks for the support man! That gives me more motivation to get her done.
You can bet I already subscribed to Project Rustoleum!

 

Was in my shop & away from the computer last night so I missed a bunch of this.

Here's some input on what I missed.
You need a GOOD/heavy duty impact to do the rivets. My 1st 3 wouldn't do it (2 husky's and a smaller IR). My new, 350 snap-on does though

I used to always grind them in the past though - worked perfectly fine. I'd do the majority of the grinding with a grinding disk & finish with a flap disk when I got close to the hanger. This kept from gouging the hanger or whatever was riveted on.

I still use a drift/punch and a 4 lb sledge to drive the rivet bodies out - same as I did when grinding. Makes for a good workout

As for bolt size - rivets should be 7/16" so hole would be slightly under 7/16". You can either drill out to 7/16" or step up to 1/2". I like 1/2" because they are easy to find in a pinch.

Go grade 8, fine thread and use stover nuts/top locks for final assembly. Just use basic nuts for mock up as the stovers are a one time use deal. They hold better than nylocs though.

As for shackle orientation. Bottom pic mimics how the shackle would be from the factory. Which way you face the shackle only really matters if you are close to a bind situation - meaning the leaf may hit the shackle itself on full compression. Based on the 2 pics you posted I don't think you'd have to worry about this.

 

If they break well then they break. their's always a drill, easy outs, tap & die or hit the JY and pull out another set of radius arm's to start all over with.

 

Thanks Chase, I went out and got some more grinding disks and cutting disks today so hopefully I can get the rivets done today. Is there anything else I can use to drive the rivets out? If not I will pick up a center punch from harbor freight, there on sale for 2.99. Thanks for the help man.