When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
how bad is bad? are we talking pinholes or cutting out sections and replacing?
Unless pinholes were caused by pins rather than rust, they are indication that the panel is paper thin. The only way to repair properly is to cut out the thin surrounding metal and replace it.
Hey Nick,
Hmmm... Sandblasting is the absolute bottom of the project. It's all up from here. Hang in there. I've attached a pic of our poor truck at rock bottom during sandblasting.
We debated replacing the bed with a new one but I drew the line there. I still wanted to say the truck was a 1950 - I needed something left from '50. We saved the cab & bed - but not the fenders. At $265 ea we cut corners on those big 'ol fenders - probably saved us 4 months of grinding.
Looking good over there - Don't get down - you are closer than you think.
Cab is finally in primer... well most of it anyway. Im gonna wait until next weekend or the next nice day after that to flip it on it back and get the bottom and the inside roof. Finally starting to look like more than a rust bucket. The next thing im going to have to deal with on the cab is the pitting. Will filler primer cover that up or would i have to use normal filler for that?
To fill pockmarks from surface rust I would give the entire surface a skim coat of a catylized surfacer putty and block it. I like Evercoat Euro-soft glazing putty. Vacuum the surface with a brush attachment on the vacuum to remove all the dust. Use a wide squeegie to apply: wipe on and wipe off the first swipes with firm pressure to just wet the surface, then immediately put down a thin coat about the thickness of a business card (like thick paint) making sure all the surface is covered. After it cures sand with 100 grit no load paper on a flexible foam long board, holding the board horizontally with both hands, but stroking at a 45* angle, stopping when the primer starts to show thru. Touch up any low spots, extending the putty well beyond the edge of the low spot and resand. When satisfied shoot a couple coats of high build primer, guide coat and block with 220.
To fill pockmarks from surface rust I would give the entire surface a skim coat of a catylized surfacer putty and block it. I like Evercoat Euro-soft glazing putty. Vacuum the surface with a brush attachment on the vacuum to remove all the dust. Use a wide squeegie to apply: wipe on and wipe off the first swipes with firm pressure to just wet the surface, then immediately put down a thin coat about the thickness of a business card (like thick paint) making sure all the surface is covered. After it cures sand with 100 grit no load paper on a flexible foam long board, holding the board horizontally with both hands, but stroking at a 45* angle, stopping when the primer starts to show thru. Touch up any low spots, extending the putty well beyond the edge of the low spot and resand. When satisfied shoot a couple coats of high build primer, guide coat and block with 220.
Well looks like im in for a lot of sanding. The cab and front fenders are 90% pockmarks. There was barely any paint left before i blasted the cab.
The Eurosoft sands easily, Use it thin only for smoothing surface imperfections, scratches or pinholes in body filler, use standard body filler (I like Rage Gold) to fill shallow dents/ imperfections first, sand with 80 grit on longboard. I use a 16" or 24" stiff foam longboard: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...4403/overview/ with self stick longboard paper. Sanding, surface preparation is the key to a good paintjob and where most of the labor cost goes.
cab is now 100% in primer. Ordered my headers last week also. When ever the transmission get put back in the mack and taken out of the shop, the frame will come back in and i will start on the steering linkage.
Had some free time and decided to mock up the top end. It put a smile on my face just to see that. Next step is to set up the steering linkage around the headers. Looks like ill need three u joints, one on the column, one intermediate and one on the rack. Shouldnt be too bad.
08-10-2014, 09:11 PM
