F350 Loss of power and rough idle
#1
F350 Loss of power and rough idle
2001 Ford F350 7.3 SuperDuty 4x4 Automatic with 240,xxx miles. Truck was running fine. Had it running and hooked up a stock trailer. As soon as I plugged in the trailer the truck acted like I’d shut the fuel about ¾ of the way off. Idling rough and had NO power. Changed the fuel filter, air filter, and the camshaft sensor. No real change. Acts about like a gas engine that has a bad plug wire or plug. Limped it to O’reillys and used their scanner. No DTC’s stored, but read these out of the memory. Any ideas, or any more info needed? I just bought the truck, but appears to be stock. Guessing I'll have to bite the bullet and have a shop scan with a full scanner.<O</O
P1280 Inj pressure low<O</O
P119 Manifold air circuit high<O</O
P1690 Wastegate solenoid<O</O
P0381 Glow plug indicator circuit<O</O
P1316 Injector Driver module codes detected<O</O
P0221 Throttle position switch B<O</O
P0340 Camshaft sensor a<O</O
P1139 WIF Indicator circuit<O</O
P1294 Injector high side open bank 2<O</O
Thanks in advance for any help,
Jared
P1280 Inj pressure low<O</O
P119 Manifold air circuit high<O</O
P1690 Wastegate solenoid<O</O
P0381 Glow plug indicator circuit<O</O
P1316 Injector Driver module codes detected<O</O
P0221 Throttle position switch B<O</O
P0340 Camshaft sensor a<O</O
P1139 WIF Indicator circuit<O</O
P1294 Injector high side open bank 2<O</O
Thanks in advance for any help,
Jared
#3
#4
Thank you. I did unplug the trailer, and I checked the fuses. I'm new to the Powerstrokes, so I wasn't sure what all was electronically controlled. There were a couple fuses blown, but they were for the trailer lights. How hard are the UVCH to get to? I'm guessing requires replacing the valve cover gaskets?
#5
The VC gaskets are reusable. Look at the wires that connect to the VC to see if any are rubbing on the VC and chafing.
I would also get the codes cleared and run the truck then have the codes read by a code reader. Not the parts store ones, they can't read all our codes.
Where are you? We have lots of people on here that will help if close enough.
I would also get the codes cleared and run the truck then have the codes read by a code reader. Not the parts store ones, they can't read all our codes.
Where are you? We have lots of people on here that will help if close enough.
#6
#7
It most likely is not necessary to replace the gasket. You will either need to do the .50 cent mod or buy the clips from Ford.
You can do a buzz test if you have the equipment, this will determine which side is having the issue with the UVCH. You can OHM them out to see if one side is not as great as the other. Last you can test which side is heating up by using a heat gun on the manifolds.
Here is a PDF that outlines the process for removing the valve cover.
valvecovers.pdf
I just opened up the passenger side on my X because it was running rough and guess what ..... the clip on the passenger side was off about a 1/4in. I used the clips from ford to secure it from coming off.
DTS Articles - 7.3L UVC Harness Retainer Clips
Tim M
You can do a buzz test if you have the equipment, this will determine which side is having the issue with the UVCH. You can OHM them out to see if one side is not as great as the other. Last you can test which side is heating up by using a heat gun on the manifolds.
Here is a PDF that outlines the process for removing the valve cover.
valvecovers.pdf
I just opened up the passenger side on my X because it was running rough and guess what ..... the clip on the passenger side was off about a 1/4in. I used the clips from ford to secure it from coming off.
DTS Articles - 7.3L UVC Harness Retainer Clips
Tim M
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#8
UPDATE: Okay, finally got a chance to tear into the truck. Took the drivers side cover off and sure enough the clip had slid down about 1/4". Fixed that with the only quarter I could find and put it back together. Started up like a champ.
However, now when I get it up to about 2000 rpm, it cuts out a little (fish bite, pinging noise, hesitation) almost like a gas engine with 1 plug shorting out or something. It still runs good until that point. If the passenger side UVCH is just barely slipping down would that cause this? Or do I have an injector going south?
However, now when I get it up to about 2000 rpm, it cuts out a little (fish bite, pinging noise, hesitation) almost like a gas engine with 1 plug shorting out or something. It still runs good until that point. If the passenger side UVCH is just barely slipping down would that cause this? Or do I have an injector going south?
#9
UPDATE: Okay, finally got a chance to tear into the truck. Took the drivers side cover off and sure enough the clip had slid down about 1/4". Fixed that with the only quarter I could find and put it back together. Started up like a champ.
However, now when I get it up to about 2000 rpm, it cuts out a little (fish bite, pinging noise, hesitation) almost like a gas engine with 1 plug shorting out or something. It still runs good until that point. If the passenger side UVCH is just barely slipping down would that cause this? Or do I have an injector going south?
However, now when I get it up to about 2000 rpm, it cuts out a little (fish bite, pinging noise, hesitation) almost like a gas engine with 1 plug shorting out or something. It still runs good until that point. If the passenger side UVCH is just barely slipping down would that cause this? Or do I have an injector going south?
Also, Check the harness on the drivers side to be sure the portion that goes over the valve cover didn't rub through any wiring and is not causing a short.
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