Betty turns oil burner
#1006
#1007
I'll bet you could put the model A build thread in the projects section: Projects - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Sam
Sam
#1008
I'll bet you could put the model A build thread in the projects section: Projects - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Sam
Sam
#1010
I'll bet you could put the model A build thread in the projects section: Projects - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Sam
Sam
Actually, it's called the head, sound generator, sound unit and a few other names. Drivers are for electric horns and speakers.
#1011
I am so glad you went with the stutter horn, I love them and plan on buying one soon. I haven't been able figure out where to mount one though on my 2000 F150, there is no room anywhere with the 5.4, not even on the frame in the front. The underside of the hood had never occurred to me before. I think that is a great idea compared to where my current air horn is mounted under the cab on the frame. Thank you very much for that idea.
#1012
I am so glad you went with the stutter horn, I love them and plan on buying one soon. I haven't been able figure out where to mount one though on my 2000 F150, there is no room anywhere with the 5.4, not even on the frame in the front. The underside of the hood had never occurred to me before. I think that is a great idea compared to where my current air horn is mounted under the cab on the frame. Thank you very much for that idea.
#1013
What about trying to mount it to the hood structure on the bottom side of the hood...that way the horn would be kinda hanging out in space (where there is no engine compartment mounting available) when the hood is closed, and it lifts up with the hood when you open it...just an idea.
#1014
What about trying to mount it to the hood structure on the bottom side of the hood...that way the horn would be kinda hanging out in space (where there is no engine compartment mounting available) when the hood is closed, and it lifts up with the hood when you open it...just an idea.
#1015
After I brought up the black inter cooler, I started seeing things online saying blacked out inter coolers are more efficient, I found that unlikely because of an insulation effect, but people smarter than me were throwing around math and scientific terms that were over my pay grade.
And just tonight some guys I subscribe to tackled the theory.
They are goofballs but their method of testing seems sound
And just tonight some guys I subscribe to tackled the theory.
They are goofballs but their method of testing seems sound
#1018
Ok. It's been ahwile since I posted anything. So I'll throw the first update that hasn't cost me any money.
I've had an issue with my rear shocks that I didn't agree with since I swapped in my 14 bolt. As you can see from this old picture I have long shocks and very little travel with the weight on the axle. Part of this is because I raised the axle shock hangers so they would stay out of the weeds.
This is with the weight off of the axle. The rear of my truck suspended with the wheels off of the ground. No issue this way, but not all of the shock travel is being used. With the bottom of the shock unbolted it surpasses the hanger by
3-1/2".
So my plan was to give flipping the stock top shock hanger a try. If that didn't work fab a whole new set.
Stock hanger:
After removing all 6 rivets. Joy! . And a little test fit.
Lo and behold it fits without hitting the frame and I actually don't have to make custom parts for a change.
Since the bolt pattern is slightly different I had an extra hole to drill. Also the remaining holes in the hangers and the frame had to be drilled out to 7/16". The original rivet holes are just slightly smaller then a 7/16" bolt.
Since I do not like extra holes in my frame, I welded up the extra hole on both sides.
Hangers stripped repainted and installed.
And before weight on:
After weight on:
Before weight off:
After weight off:
Now I have 7-5/8" shock travel with the weight on the axle, and 6" to the bump stop. There is also 1/2" of travel with the axle at full hang before the hangers flip. I thought of buying some skyjacker shocks with more travel but the next size up has a 3" longer body and would bottom out before the bump stop. So I guess I'll have to go with a set of limit straps later on.
I've had an issue with my rear shocks that I didn't agree with since I swapped in my 14 bolt. As you can see from this old picture I have long shocks and very little travel with the weight on the axle. Part of this is because I raised the axle shock hangers so they would stay out of the weeds.
This is with the weight off of the axle. The rear of my truck suspended with the wheels off of the ground. No issue this way, but not all of the shock travel is being used. With the bottom of the shock unbolted it surpasses the hanger by
3-1/2".
So my plan was to give flipping the stock top shock hanger a try. If that didn't work fab a whole new set.
Stock hanger:
After removing all 6 rivets. Joy! . And a little test fit.
Lo and behold it fits without hitting the frame and I actually don't have to make custom parts for a change.
Since the bolt pattern is slightly different I had an extra hole to drill. Also the remaining holes in the hangers and the frame had to be drilled out to 7/16". The original rivet holes are just slightly smaller then a 7/16" bolt.
Since I do not like extra holes in my frame, I welded up the extra hole on both sides.
Hangers stripped repainted and installed.
And before weight on:
After weight on:
Before weight off:
After weight off:
Now I have 7-5/8" shock travel with the weight on the axle, and 6" to the bump stop. There is also 1/2" of travel with the axle at full hang before the hangers flip. I thought of buying some skyjacker shocks with more travel but the next size up has a 3" longer body and would bottom out before the bump stop. So I guess I'll have to go with a set of limit straps later on.
#1019