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Old 08-05-2012, 09:50 PM
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Another Project Completed

Done (myself):
rear diff fluid change (incl painting cover)
Transfer case fluid change (fill plug Won't go in all the way)
Front diff fluid change (incl painting cover)
EBPS tube clean out (discovered no significant blockage, but nut on bottom of tube showed slight rust)

Next up:
Power steering fluid change
Clean up floor of bed (prep, rust cleaner/sealer, spray on bed liner)

Discovered that the passenger side exhaust manifold (i think that is what it is) appeared VERY rusted. Probably need someone to take a look and give me an opinion on whether it will be a problem.

Based on the advice i got from Trey and SpringerPop, i also need someone with a scanner to run a "compression" test.

This stuff is starting to cut into my "real life".
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:43 PM
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Well done! I've found the 'addiction' comes and goes!
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2000 Excursion XLT V10 4x4 170K, front V's + 2'' level mini-pack, rear mod'd C's,, 315's, winch bumpers F/R, Viair system, Piaa lighting, Hellwig sent to GermanMike, dual Optimas, oily K&N, RedHeaded, scratchy paint, love taps at each corner.

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Old 08-06-2012, 09:13 AM
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bill.pounds.1
Quote:
Originally Posted by djed View Post
Based on the advice i got from Trey and SpringerPop, i also need someone with a scanner to run a "compression" test.
Maybe you mean Contribution/Balance test? Doubtful you have a compression problem, and you wouldn't use a scanner for that test.
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:13 PM
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Told you, you would get hooked.
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Old 08-12-2012, 03:15 PM
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Power steering fluid flush now done.

Steering is a bit firmer, but I still have play in the wheel. Brakes are a little squishy, but I'm hoping that will work its way out of the system.

Also found out the emergency brake is ineffective. I push all the way to the ground but the brake doesn't seem to hold when I park and turn the car off. I'll add that to my list.

If anyone wants to borrow my homemade wheel chocks (for a dually), let me know.
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Old 08-12-2012, 04:47 PM
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Have you tried to tighten the steering box - 1/4 turn at a time? It really helped my 'scursion. E-brakes are fairly straight forward to tighten up. Both can be searched for step by steps on FTE!
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2000 Excursion XLT V10 4x4 170K, front V's + 2'' level mini-pack, rear mod'd C's,, 315's, winch bumpers F/R, Viair system, Piaa lighting, Hellwig sent to GermanMike, dual Optimas, oily K&N, RedHeaded, scratchy paint, love taps at each corner.

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Old 08-12-2012, 05:11 PM
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Sean,

I have yet to try to tighten the bolt.

If I am looking at the correct thing, it's the allen bolt that seems to screw into a hex bolt. It seems like it might be hard to get to.

I'll look and see if I can find directions and give it a try.

Thank you.

David
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Old 08-12-2012, 05:19 PM
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David, here's the famous thread. I used a lot of extensions...


http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/78...mpilation.html


Welcome to camodown's Rear Hub Seals and Parking Brake repairs

There's a star wheel inside the backing plate that can be turned to adj the parking brake. I had to remove the combo rotor/drum to figure it all out.
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2000 Excursion XLT V10 4x4 170K, front V's + 2'' level mini-pack, rear mod'd C's,, 315's, winch bumpers F/R, Viair system, Piaa lighting, Hellwig sent to GermanMike, dual Optimas, oily K&N, RedHeaded, scratchy paint, love taps at each corner.

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Old 08-12-2012, 06:28 PM
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My rear brakes are getting bad. I think they are metal on metal now

I might tear into my E brake too, but I hate drums.
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:44 PM
djed djed is online now
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Sean,

Thanks for the link and the pictures. My brother is going to loan me his one foot extensions on Tuesday.

The thread that seems to have helped me the most is http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...djustment.html (post #7).

The relevant instructions were:

Locate the allen bolt and locknut on top of the steering box. It’s close to the radiator. The locknut should be a 5/8".

Mark the allen bolt so you’re oriented and know where the starting point is, then loosen the locknut. Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh. Tighten the locknut and road test your vehicle.

Be careful not to over-tighten the allen bolt. If you do, the steering may become too tight and get extremely stiff during a tight turn, possibly causing you to drive off the roadway.

Keep repeating the sequence, turning the allen bolt a ¼ turn at a time, followed by a test drive, until you're satisfied with the performance. If you over-tighten the allen bolt, turn the allen bolt back a quarter turn, counter-clockwise.

There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I suggest you tighten it to the point where the slop is gone, and no further.

Most people will turn the allen bolt three-quarters of a rotation to one and one half rotations before they’re happy with the results.


I assume that the 5/8" hex locknut loosens counter-clockwise.

I'll let you guys know how it works out when I have a chance to make the adjustment.
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Old 08-12-2012, 11:38 PM
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Instructions look good David. Mine tightened 1-1/2 turns until I was happy with the darting back and forth gone. Tighten down before you test, else you'll have a red puddle to clean.
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2000 Excursion XLT V10 4x4 170K, front V's + 2'' level mini-pack, rear mod'd C's,, 315's, winch bumpers F/R, Viair system, Piaa lighting, Hellwig sent to GermanMike, dual Optimas, oily K&N, RedHeaded, scratchy paint, love taps at each corner.

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Old 08-16-2012, 01:41 AM
djed djed is online now
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With the help of the extensions and a universal joint, I opened up the lock nut and turned the allen bolt (with a 4.5mm allen wrench) 1/4 turn with no significant improvement. Repeated with another quarter turn and test drove on the freeway with what seemed to be a bit of improvement. I'll try another 1/4 turn tomorrow morning and report back.

Thanks again for your help.
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:41 AM
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