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measure how wide yours are. find another set in the bone yard that are the same width. probably 2 in. maybe a jeep or something like that. keep your upper main and put it on the new/used pack. you will have to take the main off the donors. the center pin/bolt will hold the pack together then put the wraps back on and away you go. as long as you keep your main you can build down with what you find. or just add to what you already have. be careful when you unbolt the main from the pack. its spring loaded if you know what i mean.
52 F2 & F3 Merryman Herringbone
60 F250 4x4
63 F250 4x4 Flareside
I might be in a cage at the zoo, but I'm still king of the jungle!
As mentioned, the springs should be repairable if the damage isn't too significant. If you would like to replace the springs, you can purchase NOS springs for around $130-150 each depending on the source and current pricing. Reproduction springs are available, but at an even higher cost (1957 - 1966 Ford F100 1/2 Ton 2WD Truck Springs - Eaton Detroit Spring).
Two front springs rates were available. The Ford engineering number should be stamped on the bottom, which can be decoded to find the original spring rate. The number will be stamped on the end or center of the bottom leaf.
Also note the front u-bolts will require replacement. These items are one-time use parts. When the u-bolts are torqued to spec, the bolts and threads stretch, which contributes to the great difficulty encountered while removing the nuts. Re-using the old u-bolts and nuts will result in inaccurate torque readings and could result in u-bolt fracture/failure.
1960 Ford F-100 with Custom Cab, Styleside short bed, 292 2-bbl, and three speed transmission.
1978 Pontiac SE Trans Am, t-tops, Pontiac 400, and Turbo 400 transmission.
Thank ya'll for the info- yeah, I saw the code # on the bottom leaf, this is a brush truck, may never leave town- I can repair them and move on. I was thinking about a quick swap in of some rear leafs. Thanks
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