My '89 F250 5.8L just stopped running about 15 secs after starting and wouldn't restart. My first thought was fuel problem, but then I found this forum and found enough info posted here to solve the problem. I thought I would share my story to help other newbies with the same problem.
I first pulled the coil wire from the dist cap and inserted a spare spark plug in the coil wire end, grounded the threads, and cranked the engine to discover there was no spark. Next I checked for power to the coil by using a 12v test light, clip attached to a ground and probe inserted into neg wire terminal on coil (wire closest to passenger side), turned key to on position test light came on bright. Next I cranked the engine to see if test light would blink, light did not blink, indicating problem in primary circuit, possible bad ignition control module or bad pickup (pip) in dist. (if light had blinked that would indicate a bad coil according to Haynes manual)
I thought I would remove the ICM to test, but had no tool to remove the two hex head screws holding it to the side of the distributor. Note: you need a deep socket either 5.5mm or 7/32", either will work, (I checked) but regular length socket won't reach the recessed bolts. I had to go to the parts store to buy the deep socket I needed ($4) so I decided to buy a new ICM ($47 lifetime warranty at Autozone). Note: color of new ICM should be same as original (this is also stated on replacement instructions). I was able to change ICM without removing the distributor but the dist had to be loosened and turned to access the old ICM, so first I marked the base of the dist and also location of rotor (with cap off) to preserve original timing when putting back in place. After removing screws holding icm you need to pull it straight down to unplug it from dist. New ICM came with small pack of di-electric grease to apply to back side of ICM to reduce heat transfer.
After putting everything back together my truck fired right up, a bad ICM was my problem. Thanks to previous contributors to this forum I was able to solve my problem and save hundreds in repair costs. I hope this post helps someone else do the same.

 

HI I checked my 80 f 150 4.9 light comes on bight on both neg and bat side when cranking it over it does not blink but comes on dimmer. I having trouble with no fire to the plugs

 

Did you connect your test light to the positive side of battery when you probed connector, passenger side, at ignition coil? I believe on the switching signal test that is what you are supposed to do.

 

If you unplug the coil connector then you hook test light clip to the POS side of the Battery.
If you leave the coil plugged in then you would hook test light clip to the NEG side of the battery.



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Did you connect your test light to the positive side of battery when you probed connector, passenger side, at ignition coil? I believe on the switching signal test that is what you are supposed to do.


Thanks for clarifying Subford.

 

Hello everyone when they say primary wiring which all are those - also does the voltage regulator have anything which would cause a no spark to plugs because I hear a click when the ignition switch is turned to the on position I should mention that I Am not using a key to turn the switch I have it off the column. The coil checks out the distributor is a new one just put on yesterday the ICM was exchange because the old one did't checked out at a auto zone testing. So Iam and wits end LOL Oh I changed the connectors to the ICM and at the distributor and coil with new ones from LCM the come with black wires I tried to change them {wires) one at a time looking at the old connectors but now I'm thinking that maybe I screwed up some where along the line. Well hope someone can point me in the right direction Thanks Daniel

 

The primary winding of the Ignition coil are where the two small wires connect to the coil, one on each side. The secondary winding is the large wire out of the coil going to the center of the distributor.
In the images below the primary is P to P and the secondary is S to S.





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Hey All:

I have a 1989 Bronco with a 5.8. Bought this vehicle not running, and trying to get her going.

1) Engine will turn over and crank if I by-pass the starter solenoid, but I'm not getting any spark.
2) I have replaced the pip, TFI module, starter relay, fuel relay and coil.
3) The rod on steering column does engage and pushes down when the key is turned.

I'm assuming that because the igintion won't send power to the starter, and at least turn the motor over is the start of the problem.

Any suggestions, on what steps I should take to find out where the problem lies? Electrical problem always cause me a lot of headaches!

David

 

Bad fuse links at the starter solenoid battery side.