Ford 1977 Half Ton Lift
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The above advice is assuming 4wd.
For 2wd check out Autofab Offroad Trucks - not cheap by any means, but pretty much the only way to do our trucks without doing a bunch of custom fabrication.
For 2wd check out Autofab Offroad Trucks - not cheap by any means, but pretty much the only way to do our trucks without doing a bunch of custom fabrication.
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You can remove your factory coil buckets and move them lower on the frame for some lift. In the rear a simple shackle flip could get you about 2 inches for the price of bolts and a grinding wheel. Just make sure you get c bushings for the front axle and the correct length shocks
Thank you for the fast responses
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If i flip the bracket, I will have to burn a gusset in, correct? Also for the front, I was thinking of just going ahead and getting a 2" isolator lift.
If I feel I need to go higher ill just get a body lift. Would this be feesable? Is there a stronger bracket out there for sale? Inches for Cheap, Reverse Shackle Flip - Ford Truck Club Forum
Heres a isolator I seen.
FRONT 3" 2" 1.5" 1" COIL SPRING SPACER LEVELING LIFT KIT XL XLT 2WD 4X2 INCH SVT | eBay
#11
Gusset no only if you use the front hanger for the rear, long story.... ck out these folks.
Here is a quicker way to go as far as bolt on. Universal Shackle Flip Kit - RuffStuff Specialties
Instead of the work to install the isolators, just go with a 1, 2 or 3" body lift and be done. They are not as bad a some people say, if you install it correctly.
Grinding rivets on the rear hanger is a PITA. Isolators on a 2wd could make for some possible front end caster/camber issues.
Here is a quicker way to go as far as bolt on. Universal Shackle Flip Kit - RuffStuff Specialties
Instead of the work to install the isolators, just go with a 1, 2 or 3" body lift and be done. They are not as bad a some people say, if you install it correctly.
Grinding rivets on the rear hanger is a PITA. Isolators on a 2wd could make for some possible front end caster/camber issues.
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I did a thread asking how I could lift my 79 f150 4x4, and I got ALOT of great information about the shackle flip and lowering the coil buckets. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...f-springs.html
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2" rear block, with u bolts, $65: 2" Block Kit, With U-Bolts
Your stock front springs are probably a bit worn anyway, and as has been mentioned, grinding rivets is a pain, and dropping the front buckets would also be a big pain.
Not to mention, if youre like most people your rear bolt through the spring hanger and the spring is probably (well at least 50% odds) seized in there, rusted solid, and will not come out. And once you grind the rivets off (or before it, since I'm mentioning it), you will have to drop the fuel tank to redrill the flipped hangers. They have to be moved forward to correct the pinion angle. Thats 4 rivets per side, dropping the fuel tank (itself a bit of a pain), unbolting 2 giant possible seized bolts, flipping the shackles, drilling 4 new holes in the frame, buying 8 nuts and bolts and lock washers... vs using a cut off tool to zip off the factory u bolts, jack the truck up 2", sliding a block under there, and new u bolts on.
I'm not a fan of stacked blocks for but 2" its probably fine. You could even spend $10 more and just get the 5" block kit and ditch the factory block. 5" Block Kit, With U-Bolts
For $245 jbg will sell you a 4" lift kit. Doesn't have new shocks, and at 4" they will probably be necessary. Normally people on the forum recommend at least a 4" lift to run 35's. I have a 6" and I wouldn't want any less, but my tires are wide. 1973-79 Full Size Truck/bronco - Lift Kits - 4" Lift Kits
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MY375HP302
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
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01-14-2003 09:48 AM