I've read MANY posts and watched a few tutorial vids on line.
2004 Limited V-10 4x4. Todays temps at the time I did this was 88. Here's what I've done so far:
Measured compressor gap, removed shim and now I'm within .023"
Vaccuumed system down for 30 mins, do not have a lot of time on my hands, so only let it sit for 30 mins and with a great set of gauges the vaccuum stayed.
On the recharge, I did the low side with vapor and got that to 37, 38ish psi. Now when I tried the high side with liquid, I could only get the pressure to 155-160. After all of the reading and tutorials, I am under the impression that for the temps it should have climbed to 225-230 psi. I tried splashing the condensor with water to speed it up but after an hour, it was still only 155ish
My air duct output is only 63 degrees. It should be in the upper 30s to lower 40s. I don't think I have a leak, but just can't make her drink any more 134a. Any suggestions?

 

Was advised to check the orifice tube. I'll report back on what I find.

 

Yeah keep us posted on that...

 

I'm interested to know too. Out of curiosity, I put a digital outdoor thermometer right up against a dash vent of my dad's F-450 (since it's a new truck/AC system), and at idle, the air felt very cold and read about 60-61 degrees with it set on 60. Maybe it can crank out 30-40 degrees, but it seems like I would feel it that much colder and I don't think I do.

 

Hopefully the orifice tube will fix the problem. When you pull the refrigerant out evacuate to an acceptable micron level and weigh the charge in from the sticker. That will remove any charging guesswork out of the equation.

I found this on evacuation:

"After a system has been opened for repair, the system should be properly leak tested before charging with
refrigerant. The system should hold a deep vacuum (27 in HG. or more) for at least one minute before charging."

http://www.escoinst.com/Documents/609ADOBE.pdf



Good Luck!

 

After re-reading your original post are you saying you put gas into the low side and then tried to put liquid into the high side? While it was running?

 

That was what I read, but after doing that I found out that's bass ackwards and can be fatal to the compressor. I pray I didn't do any damage. It's still working so I think it's alright. I'll do it right next time for sure. My orifice tube will be in tomorrow so after I get it all done I'll update.

 

You know, I was going to mention the liquid into the high side as being wrong but I've seen people (on cars and commercial a/c units) do it so I don't say anything anymore. Sometimes people don't wanna be preached at. I hope your reed valves survived.

 

Liquid in the high side is not a problem with the compressor off. When the compressor is running the pressure in the system pressure will become higher than tank pressure. When the system pressure is higher than tank pressure the refrigerant will no longer 'feed' from the tank to the system. The tank has a check valve in the shutoff, refrigerant will not feed backwards from the system to the tank.

Do not feed liquid directly into the suction side of the compressor. Liquid being compressed is when bad things happen.

Hope that clears it up a bit.

Cheers


on edit: Automotive A/C compressors are positive displacement compressors. There are no reed valves inside. This link shows a good general guide.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2900177

 

Please feel free to "preach". I need all the help I can get, and will take any advice i can get, learning as I go here.
Thank you

 

I figured the type of compressors in our trucks to be axial in design. When I had issues with my system, I researched my reference books and found this - http://www.polarbearinc.com/Articles...Compressor.pdf

There are a couple of different designs when it comes to axial compressors and their valve setups and since I'm not 100% sure, I'll play it safe.

I still wouldn't tell people to use liquid on something as low as four lbs. On or off, high side or low. Most of the folks using these forums are novices particularly when it comes to A/C's. No offense intended to anyone. Why take the chance of having them make a mistake and costing them a compressor?

I'll throw liquid into our systems at work but we are talking 400 ton Trane CentraVac's and they have over 1000lbs of refrigerant. That takes awhile to charge. lol.

 

Sounds like we work on the same equipment (heavy HVACR). The majority of automotive compressors I have seen, and I have by no means 'seen it all' have been positive displacement with 5-6 pistons. You are correct in playing it safe as far as putting liquid in the system, better off not to attempt if you don't know what you are doing. Liquid refrigerant installed into the high side of the system can be ok, if there is proper wait time before starting the compressor.

I understand what you are saying, just trying to help a fellow Ex owner out. Thanks for keeping me in check and keeping things interesting!

Cheers!

 

Pulled the charge out then took out the orifice tube it had some metal and wood shavings on it. Changed the orifice tube and charged it and now I have 38 degree air coming from the front vent. The rear was cold(didn't put the thermometer in a vent), but today the rear vents are blowing quite warm. I think I remember reading somewhere to check the blend door? I'll read some more but thought I'd update the post.

 

Wood shavings!?! Do tell...

 

Yeah, I have no idea, but I wish I knew