gear box adjustment bolt
#1
gear box adjustment bolt
OK guys! I got lots of response to my other question, which still isn't narrowed down but thanks for the help.
Is it possible to replace the adjustment bolt that is in the steering box? I was able to adjust it and it seemed to help a little, but I think the head is rounded. Can it be done? Would appreciate the feed back. Just can't afford a rebuilt box right now and as a matter of fact, I just had it rebuilt 5 years ago. Thought it would last longer then that.
Is it possible to replace the adjustment bolt that is in the steering box? I was able to adjust it and it seemed to help a little, but I think the head is rounded. Can it be done? Would appreciate the feed back. Just can't afford a rebuilt box right now and as a matter of fact, I just had it rebuilt 5 years ago. Thought it would last longer then that.
#2
Its rounded head fits into the end of the sector shaft. Adjusts the pre-load of the sector shaft only.
B7J-3577-A .. Sector Shaft Adjusting Screw ~ 1/2" -20 x 1 17/64" long / Obsolete / Applications: 1948/52 F1/F6 / 1953/56 F100/600 / 1953/72 P350 (P Series Parcel Delivery).
There are 17 of these screws available NOS, (1) at DOTTS MOTOR CO. in Clearfield PA = 814-765-9681.
But, do you really want this screw? Or do you actually want: 33943-S8 .. Nut-Sector Shaft Adjusting Screw ~ 1/2" -20.
You can buy this plain 'ol nut at any hardware store.
#3
#4
If your box was really rebuilt in the last decade, It's hard to believe it needs it again already. More likely there is play somewhere else in the system. Drag link, tie rod ends, kingpins... lay under there while someone saws the wheel back and forth, see where there is movement.
#5
I strongly agree with Ross, in the last month I have found out each individual part plays a big part in the sloppynest of the steering. I think I've have, and am in the process, of replacing every part in my steering system. Every time I change a part the steering gets better by some degree. Hopefully once I have the king pins and tie rod ends replace the steering will be nice and tight.
So until it does I started on the rear end as you can see from the pictures. More surprises there as the e-brake cables had rusted in the on position many years ago. Every PO since then had driven it that way. So the rear shoes are worn out, an e-brake shoe lever is missing and the brake drums are paper thin (anyone have decent set of 12" F-2 rear drums that they want to sell? C&G Early Ford and LMC are asking a fortune for each one).
As for overhauling your manual steering box I believe, as Bill indicated, that many of the parts are still available but it doesn't look to me like a job that will accept any mistakes. Mine was so bad that there wasn't much left to save. Ross's suggestion to lie under the vehicle and watch each of the components carefully as you move the steering components lock to lock is a good one. I could not see the pitman shaft movement until I changed direction at the end of travel. The drag link looked OK but after I disassembled it I discovered that although there was no play the sockets were worn paper thin which makes sense since the ball on the pitman arm was worn into an oval shape (see the picture attached). Then I also found a bent tie rod and that the nuts on the tie rod clamps had rusted and/or been dragged and worn to almost nothing (see picture).
In short inspect everything carefully. There is no telling what unpleasant surprises may await you.
#6
Pete,
That's what my idler arm pivot looks like but for now I'll to live with it. I bought the kits for the drag link and could see the original springs were compressed to about 3/4 the height.
I'm waiting for my new king pins and tie rod ends. The ends look good but I know if I don't replace them they're going to be the next thing to go.
That's what my idler arm pivot looks like but for now I'll to live with it. I bought the kits for the drag link and could see the original springs were compressed to about 3/4 the height.
I'm waiting for my new king pins and tie rod ends. The ends look good but I know if I don't replace them they're going to be the next thing to go.
#7
Spring bushings is another area to look at, and almost impossible to diagnose with the axle in place. I've had no real complaints about my rear springs, until I pulled the axle. Once I did, it was obvious the bushings were bad. I'd have never guessed they were this bad, tho! On the front end they will cause as much problem as bad steering components.
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#8
Spring bushings is another area to look at, and almost impossible to diagnose with the axle in place. I've had no real complaints about my rear springs, until I pulled the axle. Once I did, it was obvious the bushings were bad. I'd have never guessed they were this bad, tho! On the front end they will cause as much problem as bad steering components.
Now I'll be anxious to see what the rear bushings and pins look like . . . pictures to follow . . . if anyone here likes pictures . . .
Good luck with your king pins Bob. Do you have an adjustable reamer?
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